Get proper harden/steel nozzle for the E2

[FOGD.NO]

I am very disapointed with the harden (coated) nozzles that is the only offer from Raise3d to print special filament that need steel nozzle.

I have printed 1/3 of FormFutura CF Petg and I now got a 1mm nozzle instead of 0.4.

Do anyone make nozzles for these machines? I think it is terrible that I bought an "industrial" 3dprinter at high cost and then not able to print something like carbonfibre petg.

The print at the left is the first print I made, and the right is the last.

[Blue21]

You can use also nozzles made for the PRO2.

[FOGD.NO]

You can use also nozzles made for the PRO2.

It is the same type.. V3H. Just coated with something and inside it is brass. But does it excist steel nozzles for Pro2?

[Blue21]

I didn't found such by my usual supplier, only the Ruby one, very expensive.

[Blue21]

I see:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/r ... k/M3U7YTT6
https://filament2print.com/gb/nozzles/1 ... less_steel

But if you really only print CF loaded filament, Ruby nozzle will probably be more cost effective on the long term if you print a lot.

[FOGD.NO]

Me and another one found out that MK8 nozzle probably is the same as Raise3d.

I tried a V6 nozzle now and it also fit just with longer thread while total length is same.
So printing with harden V6 nozzle now.

[Blue21]

Thanks for the info and hope to hear it worked nicely.

[FOGD.NO]

Thanks for the info and hope to hear it worked nicely.

Update. The V6 does work, but not ideal since the top part is flat while the heat break of Raise3d is chamfer at the end. So ideal the heatbreak also need chamfer to match.
The MK8 nozzle is a tiny bit shorter and also flat on top.

[Blue21]

Update. The V6 does work, but not ideal since the top part is flat while the heat break of Raise3d is chamfer at the end. So ideal the heatbreak also need chamfer to match.
The MK8 nozzle is a tiny bit shorter and also flat on top.

Thanks for the update.

[mechovation]

Would an official representative of Raise3D care to comment on the nature of the V3H nozzles?

They are listed on the website as Hardened, not Wear Resistant . . . so which is it?

Will most likely need a refund on my uninstalled V3H's

[Vicky@Raise3D]

The V3 hardened nozzles are plated brass. According to our experience, they should be more resistant to abrasive filaments. But they will eventually start to wear over time when using abrasive filaments.

[FOGD.NO]

The V3 hardened nozzles are plated brass. According to our experience, they should be more resistant to abrasive filaments. But they will eventually start to wear over time when using abrasive filaments.

So why not make optional steel nozzle like others?

[Vicky@Raise3D]

We don't have one at this time. Will forward your needs to developing team to see how we can improve in future.

[Allram]

We don't have one at this time. Will forward your needs to developing team to see how we can improve in future.

Or you can reach out to Slice Engineering and ask if they can make a Vanadium nozzle to the E2

[Vicky@Raise3D]

Thanks for your recommendations. Will forward the resources to developing team.

[ww007]

Thanks for the info and hope to hear it worked nicely.

Update. The V6 does work, but not ideal since the top part is flat while the heat break of Raise3d is chamfer at the end. So ideal the heatbreak also need chamfer to match.
The MK8 nozzle is a tiny bit shorter and also flat on top.

So were there any issues when you were using the V6 or MK8 nozzles? Is there less heat transference and/or increased risk of clogging due to the parts not fitting properly? Anyone else have any experience using these types of nozzles?

I'm new to 3d printing and just got my E2. Fantastic prints so far with the included filaments but I was thinking of upgrading to a tungsten carbide nozzle. I want to "future-proof" the nozzle in case I ever want to experiment with abrasive materials, plus it bothers me that there are traces of lead in every print due to the brass nozzle (I have a toddler who can potentially chew on any 3d printed part).

It's kind of disappointing that this machine is capable of 300 C and printing with exotic materials, but we are extremely limited by the nozzle selection (even 3rd party ones). It's like buying a Ferrari but being told you can only use it on surface streets.

[FOGD.NO]

So were there any issues when you were using the V6 or MK8 nozzles? Is there less heat transference and/or increased risk of clogging due to the parts not fitting properly? Anyone else have any experience using these types of nozzles?

I'm new to 3d printing and just got my E2. Fantastic prints so far with the included filaments but I was thinking of upgrading to a tungsten carbide nozzle. I want to "future-proof" the nozzle in case I ever want to experiment with abrasive materials, plus it bothers me that there are traces of lead in every print due to the brass nozzle (I have a toddler who can potentially chew on any 3d printed part).

It's kind of disappointing that this machine is capable of 300 C and printing with exotic materials, but we are extremely limited by the nozzle selection (even 3rd party ones). It's like buying a Ferrari but being told you can only use it on surface streets.

It don`t hold up and start leaking after a some time since the joint is not good enough when using E2 heat break and V6 nozzle.

But I changed to Copper head hotend and then I am able to use V6 nozzles. So I am now using Nozzle X on both head

https://youtu.be/YoPA16PNtb4

[Proschi3d]

I use the vanadium nozzle
from Slice Engineering,
also with the Cooperhead.
I am very happy with it

[kse]

yes, just buy a copperhead with the standard heatbreak. it fits. but make sure that your nozzles are long enough.

[modiug]

I am trying the hardened steel nozzles from Austrian company Brozzl.
The results are promising.