Hatchbox PLA

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crimsonyoshi
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:17 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada

Hatchbox PLA

Postby crimsonyoshi » Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:20 am

Hatchbox PLA users, what temperature setting do you use for non white filament? I'd like to try some of this stuff alongside the Raise3D brand PLA. I've found 205 works well for Raise3D brand, and the room I'm building in is cool over the winter (ambient temp is 6 degrees C), with a bed temp of 60 C. Haven't had any problems printing so far, but I'd like to get the Hatchbox stuff right out of the gate. I've seen 185 and 195 through prior threads, but I've got a 1kg part I need to print out and I'd rather set it and forget it if I could off the bat!

maugseros
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 7:56 pm

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby maugseros » Wed Dec 19, 2018 4:07 pm

I exclusivly use Hatchbox for PLA prints. Not that I have anything against any other brand, but I go with what I tried first and have working great.

My buildtac surface kind of crapped out after about 10-12 months of printing. It still works fine for small prints, but larger prints the raft tends to start peeling from the corners. I've seen people say they sand it, clean it with alcohol, spray it with hair spray, put glue on it, use and ABS slurry and all kinds of things. I would rather not use anything that is "messy".. ie. sprays and glues. I simply flipped the build plate over to the glass side and covered it with 2" wide green painters tape. It's more expensive than the blue painters tape and I don't know if it makes any difference at all, but since I go thru so little of it, I'm not that worried about cost. I have found that there is nothing yet that I have printed that hasn't failed to adhere to this green printers tape. I mostly print PLA, but I've also printed T-Glase and ColorFabb Copper fill. Everything thus far I have no longer have had any bed adhesion problems. I only find that I have to replace the middle 2-3 strips of tape every couple months or longer (depending upon how much I'm printing and if I scuff the tape up too bad from removing prints).

Other than that.. for all colors of Hatchbox PLA that I have printed so far I set the print temp to 200C and the bed temp to 70C (When I measure the actual bed surface temp it reads 60C). I keep the lid off and the front cover open when printing PLA. As long as I have the correct support, orientation of print, correct print setting and so on... I probably have a 99% success rate when printing with Hatchbox PLA. When something fails, it's usually b/c I didn't notice a potential problem with the given model I am printing and changing the support infil, or some other small detail usually corrects the problem and I have rarely ever have a failed print twice with Hatchbox PLA.

Also of note is that I keep opened rolls of filament in a sealed plastic container that the bottom is filled with silica beads. They are color changing silica beads that are orange and change to a dark green when they become saturated with moisture. When that happens I simply put the beads on a cookie sheet and put them in an oven and dry them out at 250F for 3 1/2 hours. They turn back to orange dry state and I put them back into the bottom of the plastic container. Months/years of storing open filiment rolls this way, I've never had a moisture problem with any filament.

crimsonyoshi
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:17 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby crimsonyoshi » Wed Dec 19, 2018 4:19 pm

Interesting, as I've so far used Raise 3D brand and now one attempt at Hatchbox, which didn't go well! I printed the same large model, temp was set to 190 extruder and 60 bed (Hatchbox PLA) and 205 extruder, 60 bed (Raise 3D PLA) with lid on and front door closed. Every model I've printed with Raise 3D PLA has turned out great (Z-hop required sometimes depending on the size of the print). The Hatchbox attempt failed spectacularly. After maybe 6-8 layers (and going to bed after I saw it starting to print fine), I came back to a volcano of melted plastic in the morning. I'll likely try it again when I've got more time to frequently check on it, but I haven't seen failure that severe before!

The hatchbox PLA was a fresh sealed roll from the manufacturer right before print, so that definitely wasn't a problem. The only thing I can think of is something warped up to the nozzles after I went to bed - as I've seen that kind of failure with my early days of polycarbonate printing.

maugseros
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 7:56 pm

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby maugseros » Thu Dec 20, 2018 2:57 pm

Hmm... without seeing it happen, who knows what may have caused the problem. If it was a big print, could possibly have been the raft/model didn't adhear to the print bed? Maybe started to peal up on the corners or something?

Two things I would suggest is to raise the hotend temp to 200, and do not put the lid on or close the doors. Keep the machine open. I don't believe you want to trap all that heat in the printer when printing PLA (not just hatchbox but ANY PLA). Trapping that heat in the printer to keep a volume of heat around the print is for ABS, not PLA. You'll notice that a vast majority of consumer 3D printers out there that primarily are for printing PLA, the printer is totally open without any type of enclosure at all.

Also you might want to print some smaller objects first, something you can pretty much keep an eye on to see if it prints fine, rather than some large multi-hour/day print that you can't keep an eye on.

crimsonyoshi
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:17 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby crimsonyoshi » Thu Dec 20, 2018 4:50 pm

Truthfully, the reason the enclosure is on is I've been experimenting with room temperatures for my prints. Currently the room temp is about 6 degrees C, and keeping some of that heat in seems to work really well for my prints.

I've printed smaller models and massive models and everything in-between. It is definitely a guess based on what I've seen before, but when I'm not trying to "save the world" with the current prints, I'll see about getting frisky to try Hatchbox again!

maugseros
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 7:56 pm

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby maugseros » Thu Dec 20, 2018 6:07 pm

6C? What are you printing in a refrigerator? :)

crimsonyoshi
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:17 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby crimsonyoshi » Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:20 pm

Nah. I live in central Canada, and I let my workshop when not in use drop down to that temperature. Heating costs $!

maugseros
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 7:56 pm

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby maugseros » Fri Dec 21, 2018 2:21 pm

I've always printed Hatchbox at 200C. The specs on the label of the spools list 180-210C as the printing temp. And it seems to extrude fine at 200C and I have great success in my prints (at least as far as them not failing to print and looking really good). However, I've recently watched a video from CNC Kitchen that has me rethinking my extruder temp. He tested the strength of printed parts at various printing temperatures, and along the axis of adhesion (the Z axis where each print layer is printed on top of each other) the strength of the part increases along that axis with print temperature right up to the temperature where the heat ruins the filament. At that temperature and above, you'll get poor prints (poor bridging, blobs, stringing, etc.). But you back down 10C from whatever temperature you start to notice those problems for a given filament and you seem to get the strongest adhesion from one layer to the next in the printing Z direction.

This makes sense if you think about it. The hotter filament has more time to adhere to the layer below it before it cools and you get better layer to layer adhesion. You just don't want to go too high to a point where you alter the properties of the filament and degrade print quality.

So i'm going to start bumping prints up 10C at a time until I notice poor printing qualities to try to determine what the upper limit is, back it back down to find my optimal high degree temperature and then start printing at that.

crimsonyoshi
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:17 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby crimsonyoshi » Mon Dec 24, 2018 5:29 pm

Let me know what you find!

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jetdillo
Posts: 169
Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2017 5:10 am

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby jetdillo » Sat Dec 29, 2018 6:47 am

Pretty much what everybody else here has been saying:
200C nozzle temp, straight down the middle of the recommended range, with 70C bed temp.
I've settled on 70 vs. 65 because I've had peeling with random colors and batches at 65.
Hatchbox has been my go-to for PLA for a while now. It's pretty cheap on Amazon, does what it's supposed to and is consistent WRT dimensions and colors from spool to spool. It's actually pretty hard to go wrong with the stuff....

crimsonyoshi
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:17 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada

Re: Hatchbox PLA

Postby crimsonyoshi » Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:51 pm

I'm wondering if my ambient temperature had anything to do with it. I've been printing more PLA with the Raise3D brand, and an ambient temp of 7 degrees has turned out some well adhered and clean parts. Perhaps Hatchbox PLA doesn't like the cold?


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