9 months of Feature Requests N2 Plus (Printer & Software)

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Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2018 7:23 pm

9 months of Feature Requests N2 Plus (Printer & Software)

Postby LarsonMonkey » Fri Nov 16, 2018 8:51 pm

I've been operating our N2 Plus for about 8 months now. Previously I used a MakerBot Replicator and a MakerGear M2 using Replicator G and Simplify3D on and off for about 5 years. Thank you for your patience reading them. I finally had time to write them all down.

Printer requests:

1. change the mounting method of the extruder fans so I don't have to use an allen wrench to loosen 1 or both screws to access the set screws on the heater block.

2. change the shape of the large barrel of the hot end assembly to be tapered and have the set screws also act as a micro levelers for the hot end. It takes 10 minutes to re-level the hot-end every time I change a nozzle since both nozzles need to be within 0.005'' of one another. Even better, have a dial that I can rotate on the front of the carriage assembly to change the height of the entire hotend assembly.

3. change the angle of the two set screws locking the hot end assembly in place so the fan doesn't need to be removed or have one screw clamp down the hot end assembly in both directions.

4. Change the screws on the bottom of the printer to thumb screws

5. provide a fan guard for the extruder heads. My fans frequently get tangled with "stringers" in the bearing and it's hard to notice sometimes. I also tend to shatter fan blades with my allen wrench when I try and adjust the heater cartridge when the printer is running.

6. Provide a chamber temperature readout. I use chamber temperature to determine when my printer is pre-heated since it's more reliable.

7. Provide an actual chamber heater since warming up the chamber of the printer takes significantly longer than heating the bed.

8. Widen the width the bracket where the spools can be mounted. With the spools I buy, I can't put both on the upper or lower bracket since they run into one another

9. provide a means to clean out the filament tubes. Mine are covered in dust, and other contaminates even with the FRS installed. Pipe cleaners and compressed air don't seem to work well.

10. Add some kind of filler material to the new silicone hot end covers since mine have torn trying to get charred plastic off them. Fiberglass filler.

11. increase the force of the spring on the bed leveling screw. I've had to re-mount the block it's secured to on the opposite side of the bed assembly to make it higher to accommodate different build platforms.

12. provide some kind of quick release for the heater cartridge. When I need to change my nozzle head, i'd rather grab a pair of pliers and grab the hot end, unscrew the nozzle and put on the new one instead of taking the entire hot-end assembly out. Often I don't even need to re-level the bed. Right now the threads and neck of the throat tube are stressed when I do that.

13. I use the bottom of my printer as a trash bin for plastic scraps, shards, etc... Can we put a taper on the sides of the bottom so the plastic pieces don't get caught in the corners where I can't reach them? That way I can simply sweep them out.

14. I need some place to put my tools. I've printed a tool holder, but if it sneaks in front of my printer, when I open the door it dumps all my tools, nozzles, feeler gauges, etc.. on the floor. can we have some kind of built-in tool holder? Even a generic tool holder is better than none in my opinion. Or some place to mount one.

15. I've noticed that when the chamber gets to full temperature (Between 110- 125 F) the acrylic sides bow due to the heat. Is there some way to reinforce this since when the doors bow I loose some of my precious hot air that keeps my parts from warping? Perhaps some angle aluminum on the top and bottom of the door.

16. Every month or two the tiny brass cap securing the spring and ball of the door "lock" vibrates out and falls on the floor. Ive tried using loc-tite and superglue to keep it from vibrating out. Can we find a different door locking mechanism or model?

17. Can we add a "wipe tray" near where the nozzle homes to? Right before the print starts I need to use my tweezers to "wipe the noze" of my nozzles so my print doesn't start off ugly. A simple weatherstrip or brush would do this.

18. I've got a high spot in the middle of my bed. While this is a problem that has plagued FFF technology from the start, perhaps RAISE3D could experiment with thin glass sheets on top of a platform that resembles a suction table with adjustable screws. Getting that last 0.005 - 0.010 inch flat in the middle of the bed I've found to be impossible at 110 C as well as the imperfections in the glass.

19. Create some kind of bump sensor around the entire hot end assembly to detect when failed parts that have curled or warped off the bed and reach up high enough to bump the sensor.

20. add encoders to the stepper motors to detect skipped steps. Both for poor acceleration settings and detecting when a print has failed

21. add an option to hinge the top lid. I'm always afraid mine will be dislodged and come crashing to the floor when I need to reach in quick.

22. sell a mirror that you can put on top of the printer to look down, perhaps have a small lens on one side like those cosmetic mirrors. I have to stand on a ladder to determine if my flow rate is correct, which can change on every print depending on how close you get your first layer height.

23. Can we change the hardware to use just 1 size Allen wrench instead of 3 on the bed platform, heater block and carriage assembly?

24. Have a specific tool in-line with the filament tubing to clean the filament. No filament comes free of dust, particles, etc.. both from the build chamber itself or the manufacturer.


1. I'd really like a visual on the screen to locate the wipe pillar. Trying to guess where the pillar should be in the settings is proving cumbersome. Perhaps another button on the main page to add a wipe pillar and drag it to the location you want and specify the size?

2. Include the capability to have multiple layer heights on the same print. I use a 0.4mm nozzle for the dense support on our 0.8mm nozzle prints. Even if the larger layers had to be multiples of the smaller layers, this would be fantastic. Right now I have to print 0.4mm layer heights with a 0.4mm nozzle.

3. In the printer profile, include the option for 2 nozzle sizes. Right now I need to override about 3 different warnings each time I need to slice.

4. We do a lot of long, tall prints. Another common problem in FFF industry. While creating auto supports for these prints obviously would be difficult, providing the user the ability to insert pre-defined supports or ribs would be fantastic. The Ribs could be parametric or manually sized depending on the height of the print. The location could be specified by point and offset from the part XXX amount. Right now I have to specify our supports be offset 0.006'' from the part to ensure they bond together just enough to break away but not fuse. I see a library of support shapes a user could apply to a 3D print. Many of our long tall prints are extrusions, so the walls are straight up. The other feature would be to specify two points and it will create a rib between those points that extends down to the platform.

5. Add flow rate control to the touch panel. I need to calibrate flow rates that our nozzles and materials can handle without binding or boiling the plastic and I can't do that without actually printing something right now.

6. The automatic support material currently doesn't add support unless there is room for a complete pillar in the next "row". Can we have the software able to overlap up to %50 to ensure support protrudes all the way past the edge of the part? Changing pillar size can improve the situation, but rarely guarantees the support is correct.

7. add the option for "circular support" instead of pillars on rounded or curved objects. this helps ensure the part has one long continuous curve to build on top of.

8. For additional adhesion to the bed, have the option to add what I call "feet" to the print in locations that are more prone to warping. Mine are usually 0.75'' diameter by 0.050 tall. I don't care if I have to file them off of my print if it keeps my print from warping.

9. Have a print problem wizard that can predict overhang issues, areas that aren't 100% supported or features that are too small to print well.

10. have a utility that can walk you through calibrating a material.

11. have the model name text wrap in the window. Right now it cuts off and I can't read the name of my models with longer names.

Raise Touch:

1. Have a time elapsed readout option

2. What do the icons at the top left of the readout mean? computer and nozzle?

3. Have a means of disconnecting other users from the printer via network. I'll go home and leave the printer running, monitoring via webcam and i'll accidentally leave the lab computer connected and when the print fails it says the maximum number of connections has been reached. Even if there was a password I had to enter, this would save me from driving into town to shut it off before I have a meltdown on my hands.

4. Wrap the text on the current job name

5. HAve a readout on the home screen for how much material has been used on both nozzles and how much is expected to be used

6. recalculate the time to completion whenever a setting in the tune tab is changed. My print will complete with 4 hours to spare or, 4 more hours left after I adjust the feed rate.

7. In the local storage, when sorting by date, have the all the prints done on a specific day grouped together under that day.

8. add an icon in local storage whither or not that print has been printed before.

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Re: 9 months of Feature Requests N2 Plus (Printer & Software)

Postby 2CNK » Mon Nov 19, 2018 10:44 pm

I have been using my Raise3D N2 for a few years now for a mix of personal projects and professional use. I'm super happy with it in general, but the ONE biggest suggestion I have is to integrate some kind of mesh leveling.

The beds might be leveled at the factory but the glass is never really fully level, and like you I have a slight high spot in the center. Since the glass plate cannot be "pulled down" into the platform any high points (as in raised spots) cannot be adjusted away. But in general, after years of using it regularly for large and small prints it's clear that perfect leveling and truing doesn't exist and mesh leveling would go a long ways towards getting that last bit of more reliable performance.

Besides that one issue, my N2 has been a solid and reliable performer in every other way, and pretty much every other issue is minor or I have otherwise worked around so that they aren't a problem.

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