PLA raft warping

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JohnSays
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PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Tue Jun 21, 2016 4:08 am

Using N2 and Raise red PLA. I'm printing at 230C at 0.20 layer, 100% infill on unheated bed (currently at 40C). The top is off and doors open. The raft is curling up just slightly from the bed. I only used a raft because the first print failed after about 2 hours of flawless printing when one of the parts broke loose.

IMG_4400.JPG


2016-06-21_0-06-24.jpg
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Tue Jun 21, 2016 6:21 am

You can increase the temperature to 60C to avoid warping.

May I ask why you set the infill at 100%? Actually when it is over 70%, it is almost a solid one.

Zettlinger
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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Zettlinger » Tue Jun 21, 2016 11:17 am

Also depending on the environment you might want to shield the PLA print (closing doors and adding top)

My printer is in the room next to a door that is open most of the day and thus creates drafts. If i dont shield the print by keeping door closed and the top on i get prints that look worse then when i print with a closed case.

What you can also try for things that really do not want to stick is get a can of 3dLAC , flip the glassplate (or get a 2nd for the spray) and spray it on the bare glass (usually do 2 or 3 layers) and it sticks well! (ABS and PLA). After printing wait till the temp is below 40 and you hear it pop off most of the time or need little force to push it off.

I did have some trouble with flexible PLA it was sticking TOO well (it didnt pop during shrink phase, i assume the flex absorbed the force)

Next week i hope to get some really flexy stuff (the flex pla is not fit for stuff that is thicker then a few layers and needs to bend) just hope i can remove it after i print with it :)




With buildtak i also noticed that you have to be careful to try and not put the corners on a spot where you previously printed it might stick too hard or not at all (experienced both)

firesped
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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby firesped » Tue Jun 21, 2016 12:26 pm

You need to adjust your nozzle bed gap. it is far too great forcing higher temperatures in order to print. adjust it to around .2 mm to .25 mm. get a feeler gauges from a hardware store.
RL name: Michael Nolen
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JohnSays
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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:25 am

Actually firesped, that is one of the very first things I did and I had just rechecked before this last print it. The left nozzle is .20mm and the right is .23mm. Feeler gauges are a standard part of my tool box. I want to bring the right one down a tad but I wasn't sure just what screws to loosen after I got the fans off. I figured that they really are close enough to optimum though.
Last edited by JohnSays on Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:32 am

Hi Vicky, Well this is really my first real print besides the small horde of calibration boxes. They were all solid and I thought that I would print it as solid just to see if I could print. As you know, up until now I have had to mess with the machine for hours just to get it to complete a single print. So, using the KISS principle, I printed it as I had tested it using the same settings from the last calibration box. And one other thing, this design has a very small connection at the hinge and I wanted it as strong as possible. An earlier failed print using 10% infill broke at the hinge just trying to move it. These printed perfectly though, and the hinge did not even have a small resistance when first moved. Truly amazing! In fact, there was zero cleanup.
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:36 am

If you are only using the left nozzle in most of your time, there is no need to move the right nozzle down in case the right one crush your large prints.
And please check this out. https://www.raise3d.com/pages/instructi ... -v2-hotend
The first few steps show you how to remove the hotend.

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:40 am

Thanks! So do I just loosen the 3mm fix screw in the front to adjust? The last two pictures show the nozzles "Level" and "Not Level" but now how the fix was accomplished.
Last edited by JohnSays on Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:43 am

In my experience, infill over 50% is already very solid, there is no need to set the infill to 100%. It will cost a lot time and filament, and give no enough cooling space.

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:45 am

There are two screws need to be loosened, one is the front cap screw, one is the side set screw.

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:48 am

Okay, got it on the screws. Thanks. About the infill: That's good to know and thank you. That just fills in question 428 of 10,234 of what I don't know about 3D printing. And yes, I will leave the heads as they are to print with the left head mostly. I printed the part above with the right nozzle just to see it work.
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:49 am

Do never move the right nozzle lower than the left one.

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JohnSays
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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:49 am

Hi Zettlinger. Yeah, those are some good observations. In fact I did print with the doors and top open, but it is in a closed room. Still it could be too much cooling. I have also noticed those inconsistencies with the BuilTek. Now the first PLA I used stuck really well -- these were my first attempts to print. I had the doors closed and heat bed at 60C. So I'll play with it.

Have you tried printing with NijaFlex?
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:51 am

Okay Vicki. Thanks. Do you know where in this forum I can learn about printing with support? I have some ABS with a large overhang. I have some eSun PVA for support.
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:13 am

Don't suggest print ABS with PVC. Because one is high temperature filament and one is low temperature.

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:19 am

PVA -- I read that it was supposed to be used with ABS, but if not, what would I use? I could print with PLA. What would I use for support with that?
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:38 am

We have tried some esun PVA print with our PLA which is dissolved well with water.

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JohnSays
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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:33 am

Okay thanks. What support do people use for ABS?
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Fri Jun 24, 2016 3:18 am

I suggest HIPS. It has almost the same high temperature with ABS. What's more, PVA is not sticking well with ABS.

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Re: PLA raft warping

Postby JohnSays » Sat Jun 25, 2016 2:08 am

Thanks Vicky
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head


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