Copperhead

pd-
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 4:01 pm

Copperhead

Postby pd- » Thu Feb 04, 2021 12:27 am

There are several references to the Copperhead hotend in the forum, but they're scattered across various topics. I just installed two on my E2 and thought I'd post my issue here.

I was able to install fairly easily, but the heater cartridge (40W) cable was a bit tricky. The one I bought is just a bit shorter than the stock cable, so I had to get creative with routing - particularly with the left extruder.

I auto tuned PID which went well, but I have other problems. The slice engineering vanadium nozzle and standard heat break are too long for the Copperhead. For the heat break to set into the block properly the nozzle cannot thread far. So, I'm getting leakage at the threads. Also, both extruders are clicking unless I completely remove the tensioner which of course stops filament from being pulled.

Ideas? I'm guessing the filament is jamming against the heat break. I tried pushing it flush against the tool head and lowering it. Neither works. Just keeps jamming. This hasn't been the drop in replacement I expected so far. Not sure what I've missed.

modiug
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2020 9:54 pm

Re: Copperhead

Postby modiug » Thu Feb 04, 2021 12:53 am

I'm using a Copperhead on the left extruder without problems, I followed the installation instructions pdf on the Slice Engineering site.
The E3D High Precision Heater Cartridge is a bit short but ok.
I use standard E3D nozzles and the Z-offset is set at 2.9 - 3.0 mm, no filament jamming and no more clogs with pla.

Engineer87
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2020 12:20 am

Re: Copperhead

Postby Engineer87 » Thu Feb 04, 2021 7:20 pm

The slice standar heatbreak plus the vanadium nozzle is about 3mm shorter than the stock setup.
When you thread the nozzle and the heat break into the heater block you will need to use a small shim to ensure that there is a small gap between the nozzle and the heater block when you just hand tighten it
Before you put the new assembly into the heat break you should do one of two things. You can push the new assembly all the way up into the heat break or you can make a thin spacer about 2 to 3 mm thick 6 mm in diameter and 2 mm inside diameter that will fit above the heat break. I did this with a piece of PTFE tube
You are right that if you leave a small Gap above keep break you will Jam the filament in there. then you will need to do the assembly for manually aligning the two nozzles
It's strange that you had problems with the e3d 40 watt heater cartridge being too short I had to cut probably six to nine in off of my cables to get it to work. Are you trying to run it back to the main board or are you running it to the small local board that is mounted on the extruder? I just cut it short and made an end that would plug-in to the local board that is mounted on the extruder.
In regards to the leaking once you've installed it correctly you will need to heat the hot end up and use either their torque wrench or another torque wrench or small box end wrench to tighten the nozzle to be careful as the slice engineering heat break is designed thin. I think that raise 3D does not recommend tightening the nozzles hot because it would probably be the only procedure left on the E2 that would expose you to a burn hazard. And they are really focusing on a lot of the safety aspects of the E2 specifically with the enclosure and the activated carbon filter for the vocs so even though you need to tighten the nozzle when it's hot they just don't list that in the procedures

kse
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2020 6:16 pm

Re: Copperhead

Postby kse » Sun Feb 07, 2021 8:03 am

I can recommend you those nozzles: https://midwesttungsten.com/tungsten-3d ... er-nozzle/

perfect fit and they withstand abrasive materials like carbon filled nylon. tungsten also does have much better thermal conductivity than hardened steel.

Vipao
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 5:58 pm

Re: Copperhead

Postby Vipao » Mon Apr 12, 2021 9:13 am

Engineer87 wrote:The slice standar heatbreak plus the vanadium nozzle is about 3mm shorter than the stock setup.
When you thread the nozzle and the heat break into the heater block you will need to use a small shim to ensure that there is a small gap between the nozzle and the heater block when you just hand tighten it
Before you put the new assembly into the heat break you should do one of two things. You can push the new assembly all the way up into the heat break or you can make a thin spacer about 2 to 3 mm thick 6 mm in diameter and 2 mm inside diameter that will fit above the heat break. I did this with a piece of PTFE tube
You are right that if you leave a small Gap above keep break you will Jam the filament in there. then you will need to do the assembly for manually aligning the two nozzles
It's strange that you had problems with the e3d 40 watt heater cartridge being too short I had to cut probably six to nine in off of my cables to get it to work. Are you trying to run it back to the main board or are you running it to the small local board that is mounted on the extruder? I just cut it short and made an end that would plug-in to the local board that is mounted on the extruder.
In regards to the leaking once you've installed it correctly you will need to heat the hot end up and use either their torque wrench or another torque wrench or small box end wrench to tighten the nozzle to be careful as the slice engineering heat break is designed thin. I think that raise 3D does not recommend tightening the nozzles hot because it would probably be the only procedure left on the E2 that would expose you to a burn hazard. And they are really focusing on a lot of the safety aspects of the E2 specifically with the enclosure and the activated carbon filter for the vocs so even though you need to tighten the nozzle when it's hot they just don't list that in the procedures


I have ordered all these parts to upgrade my E2:
https://www.3djake.it/bondtech/copperhead-hot-block
https://www.3djake.it/bondtech/copperhead-heat-break (Standard version, the shortest...)
https://www.3djake.it/e3d/cartuccia-ris ... precisione 24V30w type
https://www.3djake.it/e3d/v6-nozzle-x-175-mm

Can you please explain better ho to assemble hotend and install in E2? I have not understood the "spacer"... If assembly is shorter than original it's not enough to adjust z-offset?
Thanks


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