E2 thermocouple type

Engineer87
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2020 12:20 am

E2 thermocouple type

Postby Engineer87 » Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:25 am

Does anyone know what type the e2 thermocouple probe is?
Im considering replacing the hot block, mostly to replace the heatbreak and nozzle with something more standard, but dont want to mess with the firmware.

Allram
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat May 02, 2020 1:18 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Allram » Tue Sep 08, 2020 8:57 pm

The Slice Engineering Copperhead heatblock is a direct replacement and fits with the original thermistor.

Engineer87
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2020 12:20 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Engineer87 » Tue Sep 08, 2020 9:07 pm

Allram, I have the copperhead heatblock in hand, and the r3d E2 stock thermocouple does thread into one of the retaining screw holes, but based on its placement, id be surprised if the temperature reading was representative of the nozzle temp.
Are you running this arrangement?

Allram
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat May 02, 2020 1:18 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Allram » Thu Sep 10, 2020 10:48 am

Engineer87 wrote:Allram, I have the copperhead heatblock in hand, and the r3d E2 stock thermocouple does thread into one of the retaining screw holes, but based on its placement, id be surprised if the temperature reading was representative of the nozzle temp.
Are you running this arrangement?


Yes, running this on both Left and Right extruder, been doing that for the last week.

Printet in PLA, PETG and ABS as of now. And it all goes well. So i think the probe placement is atleast good enough to get a good reading.

FOGD.NO
Posts: 219
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:42 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby FOGD.NO » Thu Sep 10, 2020 11:20 am

Engineer87 wrote:Does anyone know what type the e2 thermocouple probe is?
Im considering replacing the hot block, mostly to replace the heatbreak and nozzle with something more standard, but dont want to mess with the firmware.


I have replaced both hotend with Slice engineer copperhead. Just beware of the 3-4mm shorter total lenght. So best is to adjust the hotend up 3-4mm and then set offset to the same mm.
then when you adjust the height for best adhesion you set 3.2mm instead of perhaps 0.2mm.

If you set small amount of offset with the copperhead you will get some filament debree cloging the top end of the heat break when unloading.
I had to dissasemble the head twice before noticing why.
------------------------
-{Prototype Guru}-
Raise3d E2 w/SliceEngineer
Prusa MK3s Custom designed (Uploaded at Grabcad)
Prusa Mini
Creality CR-30 Beltprinter

Engineer87
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2020 12:20 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Engineer87 » Fri Sep 11, 2020 1:57 am

Thanks for the tip! Have you noticed any improvement with this setup for printing other filaments? In particular, with relation to cold end clogs? If you have, please post it in my other thread about this.

Allram
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat May 02, 2020 1:18 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Allram » Fri Sep 11, 2020 5:17 am

Engineer87 wrote:Thanks for the tip! Have you noticed any improvement with this setup for printing other filaments? In particular, with relation to cold end clogs? If you have, please post it in my other thread about this.



I have a PLA White Filament from a local distrubtor here in Norway. That will really not print at all on my E2, Prusa Mini or Prusa MK3s... Like.. at all! I have tried everything, every other filament prints like a dream.

When i changed the Heatblock to Slice Engineering Copperhead, i desided to test this filament again.
Been printing 2 whole rolls now, without a hitch, so it seems like the heat-creap issue that E2 has/have is gone with the Copperhead replacement :)

FOGD.NO
Posts: 219
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:42 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby FOGD.NO » Sat Sep 12, 2020 2:34 pm

Engineer87 wrote:Thanks for the tip! Have you noticed any improvement with this setup for printing other filaments? In particular, with relation to cold end clogs? If you have, please post it in my other thread about this.


I have not testet a lot yet, but I have been printing several days now with petg without any issue. Doing a dual color print with 0.4 nozzle on left and 0.2 on right. No problems :-)
------------------------
-{Prototype Guru}-
Raise3d E2 w/SliceEngineer
Prusa MK3s Custom designed (Uploaded at Grabcad)
Prusa Mini
Creality CR-30 Beltprinter

moorjuli
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2021 1:06 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby moorjuli » Sat Jan 23, 2021 1:23 pm

Hey guys,

i am planning on replacing my E2 heatblock with the Slice Engineering Copperhead Block mentioned above and i also want to replace the Heat Break. Any recommandations for a compatible part and where to buy?
Thank you!
Last edited by moorjuli on Fri Feb 26, 2021 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

pd-
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 4:01 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby pd- » Tue Jan 26, 2021 4:36 pm

Allram wrote:The Slice Engineering Copperhead heatblock is a direct replacement and fits with the original thermistor.


So as a direct replacement I should only need the Copperhead hotend and not the bundle they sell with the 24v thermistor?

Allram
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat May 02, 2020 1:18 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Allram » Wed Jan 27, 2021 4:36 am

Correct, but you can also use the 24v thermistor they sell. You will need to replace the connector plug on that one.

Dannytheelf
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2020 6:59 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Dannytheelf » Thu Jan 28, 2021 1:29 am

Anyone with the copperhead needing to up their temperature quite a bit to get good prints? Using the slice engineering vanadium nozzle that came with the kit (hardened steel), which may explain this because of the difference in thermal conductivity vs brass

pd-
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 4:01 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby pd- » Thu Jan 28, 2021 3:35 am

Dannytheelf wrote:Anyone with the copperhead needing to up their temperature quite a bit to get good prints? Using the slice engineering vanadium nozzle that came with the kit (hardened steel), which may explain this because of the difference in thermal conductivity vs brass


I have to do that with their Mosquito hotend on my Prusa MK3S running vanadium nozzles. I imagine that would be the same with the Copperhead.

Allram
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat May 02, 2020 1:18 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Allram » Thu Jan 28, 2021 8:05 am

Dannytheelf wrote:Anyone with the copperhead needing to up their temperature quite a bit to get good prints? Using the slice engineering vanadium nozzle that came with the kit (hardened steel), which may explain this because of the difference in thermal conductivity vs brass


Increased by about 10*C with the same nozzle and Copperhead.

Vipao
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 5:58 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Vipao » Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:53 am

FOGD.NO wrote:I have replaced both hotend with Slice engineer copperhead. Just beware of the 3-4mm shorter total lenght. So best is to adjust the hotend up 3-4mm and then set offset to the same mm.
then when you adjust the height for best adhesion you set 3.2mm instead of perhaps 0.2mm.

If you set small amount of offset with the copperhead you will get some filament debree cloging the top end of the heat break when unloading.
I had to dissasemble the head twice before noticing why.


I have ordered all these parts to upgrade my E2:
https://www.3djake.it/bondtech/copperhead-hot-block
https://www.3djake.it/bondtech/copperhead-heat-break (C type according to slice engineering table)
https://www.3djake.it/e3d/cartuccia-ris ... precisione 24V30w type
https://www.3djake.it/e3d/v6-nozzle-x-175-mm

Can you please explain better ho to assemble hotend and install in E2? If total lengh is less I need to adjust z offset and this is clear. But I can't undestand the filament debree...
Thanks

FOGD.NO
Posts: 219
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:42 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby FOGD.NO » Mon Apr 12, 2021 4:07 pm

Vipao wrote:I have ordered all these parts to upgrade my E2:
https://www.3djake.it/bondtech/copperhead-hot-block
https://www.3djake.it/bondtech/copperhead-heat-break (C type according to slice engineering table)
https://www.3djake.it/e3d/cartuccia-ris ... precisione 24V30w type
https://www.3djake.it/e3d/v6-nozzle-x-175-mm

Can you please explain better ho to assemble hotend and install in E2? If total lengh is less I need to adjust z offset and this is clear. But I can't undestand the filament debree...
Thanks


Filament debree?
------------------------
-{Prototype Guru}-
Raise3d E2 w/SliceEngineer
Prusa MK3s Custom designed (Uploaded at Grabcad)
Prusa Mini
Creality CR-30 Beltprinter

Vipao
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 5:58 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Vipao » Mon Apr 12, 2021 5:13 pm

You said "If you set small amount of offset with the copperhead you will get some filament debree cloging the top end of the heat break when unloading." I have not understood why the offset Is related to debree on top of heat breaker

FOGD.NO
Posts: 219
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:42 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby FOGD.NO » Wed Apr 14, 2021 4:59 pm

Vipao wrote:You said "If you set small amount of offset with the copperhead you will get some filament debree cloging the top end of the heat break when unloading." I have not understood why the offset Is related to debree on top of heat breaker


Because the heat break from slice is 3mm shorter then the original Raise3d. So what happen is that there is a longer gap between the heat break and the extruder gear part. The filament then have a path to be pushed sideways when extruding and you might get filament slices or stop pushing filament because it get a jam up there.
If you are very unlucky like me, then you would have to open up the extruder to pick out filament parts.
------------------------
-{Prototype Guru}-
Raise3d E2 w/SliceEngineer
Prusa MK3s Custom designed (Uploaded at Grabcad)
Prusa Mini
Creality CR-30 Beltprinter

Proschi3d
Posts: 138
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 7:13 am
Location: Deutschland
Contact:

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Proschi3d » Wed Apr 14, 2021 7:32 pm

I now print 300 hours with the standard version without any problems, so I think it's just a theoretical problem. I print Pla, Petg, ASA and everything with carbon fibers. I also print components that last over 40 hours; I've never had a problem
Raise 3D E2, Prusa i 3 Mk3s Mmus2

https://www.instagram.com/proschi3d/

Vipao
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 5:58 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Vipao » Wed Apr 14, 2021 8:03 pm

Thanks to all for support! Installed all new parts an hours ago. Now I'm making a two hours test before start a 10+ hours printing.

Just for info for other users:
- If you plan to buy the E3D High Precision Heater Cartridge - 24V-30W (E-HEATER-HP-24V-30W), you must know you need to replace connector BUT consider that changing original E3D connector with the new one, the cartridge cable will be a bit short, so pay attention and route cable in a accurate way. (see image of E3D black connector)
- When inserting slice engine copperhead block on printer head, do not push it up all as possible. Leave it some millimeter low. If you push it up all as possible the new nozzle probably will be shorter than level probe! During printing you should damage probe that could hit model. This is my experience using E3d Nozzle X. I doesn't know if other V6 are longer...

e3d-cartuccia-riscaldante-ad-alta-precisione-292249-it.jpg
e3d-cartuccia-riscaldante-ad-alta-precisione-292249-it.jpg (19.58 KiB) Viewed 1511 times


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