E2 thermocouple type

Engineer87
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2020 12:20 am

E2 thermocouple type

Postby Engineer87 » Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:25 am

Does anyone know what type the e2 thermocouple probe is?
Im considering replacing the hot block, mostly to replace the heatbreak and nozzle with something more standard, but dont want to mess with the firmware.

Allram
Posts: 42
Joined: Sat May 02, 2020 1:18 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Allram » Tue Sep 08, 2020 8:57 pm

The Slice Engineering Copperhead heatblock is a direct replacement and fits with the original thermistor.

Engineer87
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2020 12:20 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Engineer87 » Tue Sep 08, 2020 9:07 pm

Allram, I have the copperhead heatblock in hand, and the r3d E2 stock thermocouple does thread into one of the retaining screw holes, but based on its placement, id be surprised if the temperature reading was representative of the nozzle temp.
Are you running this arrangement?

Allram
Posts: 42
Joined: Sat May 02, 2020 1:18 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Allram » Thu Sep 10, 2020 10:48 am

Engineer87 wrote:Allram, I have the copperhead heatblock in hand, and the r3d E2 stock thermocouple does thread into one of the retaining screw holes, but based on its placement, id be surprised if the temperature reading was representative of the nozzle temp.
Are you running this arrangement?


Yes, running this on both Left and Right extruder, been doing that for the last week.

Printet in PLA, PETG and ABS as of now. And it all goes well. So i think the probe placement is atleast good enough to get a good reading.

FOGD.NO
Posts: 182
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:42 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby FOGD.NO » Thu Sep 10, 2020 11:20 am

Engineer87 wrote:Does anyone know what type the e2 thermocouple probe is?
Im considering replacing the hot block, mostly to replace the heatbreak and nozzle with something more standard, but dont want to mess with the firmware.


I have replaced both hotend with Slice engineer copperhead. Just beware of the 3-4mm shorter total lenght. So best is to adjust the hotend up 3-4mm and then set offset to the same mm.
then when you adjust the height for best adhesion you set 3.2mm instead of perhaps 0.2mm.

If you set small amount of offset with the copperhead you will get some filament debree cloging the top end of the heat break when unloading.
I had to dissasemble the head twice before noticing why.

Engineer87
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2020 12:20 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Engineer87 » Fri Sep 11, 2020 1:57 am

Thanks for the tip! Have you noticed any improvement with this setup for printing other filaments? In particular, with relation to cold end clogs? If you have, please post it in my other thread about this.

Allram
Posts: 42
Joined: Sat May 02, 2020 1:18 pm

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby Allram » Fri Sep 11, 2020 5:17 am

Engineer87 wrote:Thanks for the tip! Have you noticed any improvement with this setup for printing other filaments? In particular, with relation to cold end clogs? If you have, please post it in my other thread about this.



I have a PLA White Filament from a local distrubtor here in Norway. That will really not print at all on my E2, Prusa Mini or Prusa MK3s... Like.. at all! I have tried everything, every other filament prints like a dream.

When i changed the Heatblock to Slice Engineering Copperhead, i desided to test this filament again.
Been printing 2 whole rolls now, without a hitch, so it seems like the heat-creap issue that E2 has/have is gone with the Copperhead replacement :)

FOGD.NO
Posts: 182
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:42 am

Re: E2 thermocouple type

Postby FOGD.NO » Sat Sep 12, 2020 2:34 pm

Engineer87 wrote:Thanks for the tip! Have you noticed any improvement with this setup for printing other filaments? In particular, with relation to cold end clogs? If you have, please post it in my other thread about this.


I have not testet a lot yet, but I have been printing several days now with petg without any issue. Doing a dual color print with 0.4 nozzle on left and 0.2 on right. No problems :-)


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