Help with Copperhead Installation

PrintProp
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2021 10:14 pm

Help with Copperhead Installation

Postby PrintProp » Wed Apr 28, 2021 9:22 pm

I cannot get my printer to print even the test coin that comes with the printer after doing the copperhead swap, and I don't understand what I am doing wrong. Here's what I have done:
1. Assembled and installed the Copperhead following the instructions from Slice Engineering. I pushed the heat break all the way into the
heat sink as far as it would go to start off with.
2. Used Settings>More Settings>Hardware>Z Probe Offset to change the Z Offset to 3mm as others had suggested on the forum.
3. Homed everything and then moved the Z axis to 0.3mm before disabling the motors and sliding each extruder to the center one at a time
and using the feeler gauge card provided with the printer to move the nozzles until they were just touching the card (I've done this with the
nozzles and bed both hot and both cold).
From there I have tried printing the coin several times, it doesn't want to even stick the first layer down, instead just making a mess on the brand new hotend. I've also tried using Settings>Maintenance>Offset Calibration to try and get it to work, it does the first two tests somewhat okay (printing until the 9-11 line gets wavy and then doesn't stick anymore). The fourth test (XY calibration) fails every time because one or both of the charts gets pulled off the bed. Before one adjustment of the nozzle height I also noticed the Z Probe was actually bumping the charts as it passed.

Anybody with a successful Copperhead swap have any ideas? Also I don't think, or at least I hope my problem isn't just the Buildtak failing because I'd only done maybe 20 prints before this swap.

PrintProp
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2021 10:14 pm

Re: Help with Copperhead Installation

Postby PrintProp » Thu Apr 29, 2021 1:43 am

Update: Raising the nozzle temperature 20° higher than what I was printing with the stock nozzle seems to have fixed the problem, at least mostly.

FOGD.NO
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:42 am

Re: Help with Copperhead Installation

Postby FOGD.NO » Thu Apr 29, 2021 8:17 am

Have you done an X gantry leveling and then leveling calibration after to see if the bed is good?
You might also tey to adjust offset 0.1 or 0.2 closer to bed and see if that help.
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PrintProp
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2021 10:14 pm

Re: Help with Copperhead Installation

Postby PrintProp » Fri Apr 30, 2021 5:43 am

FOGD.NO wrote:Have you done an X gantry leveling and then leveling calibration after to see if the bed is good?
You might also tey to adjust offset 0.1 or 0.2 closer to bed and see if that help.

I have yes. So I have it printing now somewhat consistently on both extruders, my only question is did anyone else find they have to raise their temperature to get a good print with the copperhead? Is it possibly because I opted for only the 30W E3D precision heater, I considered a 40 watt, or even Slice's 50W one but I figured it was safest to stick with a 30W and not risk the slight chance of a runaway heater destroying everything.

Vipao
Posts: 33
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 5:58 pm

Re: Help with Copperhead Installation

Postby Vipao » Fri Apr 30, 2021 6:09 pm

As you can read in this post I have recently upadated with Copperhead and 30W E3d Precision cartridge without problems ;)

https://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=20874

After installing the new hotend and heating cartridge, have you done a PID calibration??? after installing new hotend, nozzle and heating cartrige, I make a PID tune and than I started printing with the usual settings and temperature used with standard E2 parts.

Dannytheelf
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2020 6:59 pm

Re: Help with Copperhead Installation

Postby Dannytheelf » Wed May 05, 2021 1:30 am

PrintProp wrote:Update: Raising the nozzle temperature 20° higher than what I was printing with the stock nozzle seems to have fixed the problem, at least mostly.


Can't say for your other steps but I also use the copperhead with the vanadium nozzle and also have to raise the temp 20 degrees due to the worse thermal conductivity of the nozzle


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