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Posted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 11:30 pm
by Rockman
Snooping in the forums for settings on printing Polycarbonate this weekend. Yes I am getting brave :) Within weeks I have graduated from PLA to PETG(i like) to now Polycarbonate(why not ?).

Would someone who has good success kindly share your print settings ?
Nozzle size
Print speed
Bed Temp
Top/Bottom/Infill speed
Nozzle Temp
Any special retraction settings....
I am aware print settings do vary between brands; however, this will at least provide some baselines to start with.

As always, hoping this will also help others :)


Re: POLYCARBONATE: settings ?

Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 3:07 am
by Mecha_Monster
I have been using Polymaker PC, and managed to print complex things. The most important things that you should keep in mind:
1- Preheat your chamber and build-plate (100oC and at least for 20 minutes after reaching the temperature).

2- Print SLOW (I mean it). Most of the time I print with a 100% infill (40 mm/s, rectilinear), 3 shells (inner shell 40 mm/s and outer 25mm/s) and an X/Y speed of 40 mm/s (this to avoid hitting the print when the extruder moves to another position). Default print speed of 45mm/s. I also like to print with a Nozzle temp of 260 degrees. I don't modify the retraction settings. I also like to enable the rectilinear option whenever possible.

3- The support material is your friend, not your enemy. After lots of practice, I learn to love the support material: Pillar, grid, support speed of 45mm/s, max overhangs of 60Deg, Vertical offset of 0.30mm (I double my layer size, normally I print 0.15mm layers), Pillar size of 1.2mm, sparse connection enabled, Dense support layers = 6. This settup generates a lot of support material, but It comes out without damaging your print and allows you to print intrincate parts.

This material is tough, very very tough. This week I have been experimenting with Polymaker PC-max, and although I have had a hard time sticking it to the buildplate, when I finally get a good prints it is great. The support material is hard to remove; Don't get me wrong, it is not hard to remove because it is stuck to the print.. it is hard to remove because the material is hard as a rock and impossible to bend, you have to pull it and it comes out all in one peace without damaging your print. I will post pictures tomorrow

Also; the PC sticks to buildtak, But I also have managed to print on the glass coated with a generous layer of Aquanet.

So far the setting above are what have worked for me, I hope you find it useful. Just be patient and print slow and you will get great prints.

Re: POLYCARBONATE: settings ?

Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 3:15 am
by Rockman
Wow...many thanks for your detailed answer. I will take your advice.
What nozzle size do you use ? 0.4mm is ok ? Or larger....?

Re: POLYCARBONATE: settings ?

Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 3:37 am
by Mecha_Monster
0.4mm, works like a charm.
By the way, PC cools down very fast, that allows you to print extreme overhangs. Be sure to cover your fans.

Re: POLYCARBONATE: settings ?

Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 3:55 am
by Phife
I got some regular PC from I had so much trouble with it warping, I was running the bed at 110c and let the chamber warm up for almost 45mins, still had too many issues with the parts warping. Even the calibration cube was tough. I even used glue to hold it down, and it did stay down to the bed, but then the layers started to seperate. Sides that did print well looked great and printed nicely.

I think the pure PC filament is difficult to work with, better off sticking with the blends like polyplius & Polymax as they have been better suited for printing.

Re: POLYCARBONATE: settings ?

Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 12:20 am
by IliaT
Mecha_Monster wrote:I will post pictures tomorrow

Any pictures?

I'm planning to print big parts with 3DXMAX® Polycarbonate black on Raise 3D Pro2plus - pretty expensive PC filament for some reason. Will see how it will work.

Re: POLYCARBONATE: settings ?

Posted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 2:20 pm
by LarsonMonkey
I use WolfBite bed adhesive solution for printing PC and it seems to work pretty well. It's not cheap and expires 30-45 days after you open the bottle though. When printing PC, I let my printer warm up for 1 hour to ensure thermal equilibrium. Then I level my bed.