rlballard wrote:Good point Andy, I guess I had hot ends on my mind and not the bed.... I guess I should be busy and print out the parts, I've got some Polymaker PC-Plus I have been wanting to try but have been fighting some issues with the Z-stop adjusting screw. The Top has about a 4 degree angle to it that I didn't notice and struggled trying to get the nozzles to a .127mm gap. After discovering the issue I made a new block and used an allen cap screw. now it works great.
By the way, in that struggle I thinned out my first layer waaaaayyyyy to much. So you know what I was up against. Ran the scraper right through the Buildtak. Now I'm on painters tape and a glue stick and the first two prints seemed to be working well...
I will let you know when I am ready to do the build plate change out. I will be traveling next week, going to the New York 3D Printing Show and then on to some customer visits in Connecticut. I won't be doing much until after the 20th..
OK.. when you return ( had to pass on it this year due to cost) flip the plate over. Go get a can of Aquanet Super Extra hold, unscented... Wipe the glass clean with denatured alcohol. Put the plate glass up on a very level flat place and coat the plate until it beads up and is held by surface tension at the edges. Let it dry. It could take a long time, possibly overnight. So after 2 or 3 hours a blow dryer will make it go faster and we find heat makes it stick better anyway. When dry, do it again. Then one more time for 3 clean, flat, thick coats as a base. Once it is all dry and you are ready to print you spray a light dusting on the surface right before hand... Now, since the N2 is a whopper pulling the plate in and out to do the light spray can be a pain, so I spray on to my fingers and smear it over the spot where the object will be printed.
When you print you want I nice squish to the extrusion of the first layer, if the extrusion is round you are not close enough. If the extrusion is not smooth you are too close. When completed you can remove the object with a spatula or knife... but for really big, really delicate or those prints which are simply being stubborn, you put the plate in the freezer for 10 minutes or so and the print WILL come off. The stuff in AQ gets hard with heat and goes soft in cold.
Right before the next print do the finger smear again and wipe over the edges of the previous print to remove the imprint.
Until there's better this is IMO the optimal method approach.
Although this week we are experimenting with PVA as well as a new flexible plate that was just released to the mkt.