BuildTak works good, if you can cope with it!

Thoughts about Raise3D, 3D printing and making in general.
dsiegfried
Posts: 46
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 7:28 am

Re: BuildTak works good, if you can cope with it!

Postby dsiegfried » Mon Jul 18, 2016 11:45 pm

I've never used the Buildtak plate that came with my N1. I prefer a flexible surface to print on, that way you can bend the plate and the part often pops right off. Here's what I do that works great, and is a really cheap surface to replace.

1. Take a piece of 1/8" thick acrylic and cut it to the bed size.
2. Buy a large roll of High Temperature Masking Tape available here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IW ... UTF8&psc=1
3. Cut a piece of the High Temp Masking tape and affix it to the acrylic plate build plate then burnish it down nice and smooth, and trim any excess tape.
4. This works great as a bed for PLA, PETG, flexible filaments, and small ABS parts. I prefer to run PLA on this bed at between 50-60c. If additional adherence is needed, I first lightly sand the surface of the masking tape. If a more powerful adherence is required, I apply some glue stick, or some Elmer's Washable No-Run School Glue Clear https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G ... UTF8&psc=1

The acrylic / high temp masking tape combination is good for temperatures up to about 80c. Higher than that and the acrylic will start to warp and the tape may lift off some during the print. When the high temp masking tape gets torn or damaged in any way, I simply peel it off and apply a new section of tape. The roll of high temp masking tape lasts a VERY long time, replacement is super cheap, and I don't anticipate needing to buy another roll for many years. It works well on glass too, but the advantage with using acrylic is that you can remove the bed and flex it, and the part often pops right off without needing any part removal tools such as a knife or spatula. Plus acrylic is cheap so you can have several of these beds ready to go. I usually have one plain one and one with some glue on it.

You don't have to worry about damaging this surface because if you do you can simply remove and adhere another section of tape.

5. For larger ABS parts I use a standard piece of glass cut to size with a product called WolfBite Premium Heatbed Adhesion Solution for ABS:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SG ... UTF8&psc=1

The Wolfbite is amazing. When hot the ABS sticks to it like crazy, but then as it cools, it makes these cracking noises and once cool you can literally just pick the part up off the plate. Wolfbite must be used at a bed temp of 110c minimum, the manufacturer recommends 120c but it's been working for me at 110.

6. For nylon I just use glue stick on room temperature glass.

I have tested many, many build surfaces on many materials, and because I have been working at this for some time and developed these optimum solutions for each type of material, I've never used the Buildtak surface.

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rlballard
Posts: 181
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 2:07 pm

Re: BuildTak works good, if you can cope with it!

Postby rlballard » Tue Jul 19, 2016 12:36 am

IMHO, the best choice for me has been to switch to the Zebra Plate, I have done this to my other machines and for me, there is no turning back. Andy first announced this sometime back and said he was having good luck. I have done well over 300 prints without any issue. I do, however clean my plate after each run with a wet paper towel as I start out with, what Julia also recommended sometime back, a thin layer of purple glue stick. A mod you should consider, Andy turned me on to this some time ago is the build plate mod, this is a wonderful mod and literally lets you level the bed at 6 points across the build plate in 60-seconds (thanks again Andy). I recheck level and adjust every couple of prints....
Bed Mod:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1409412

PrintinZ Zebra Plate:
http://www.printinz.com/raise3d/
BB

theRenegade
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 11:58 am

Re: BuildTak works good, if you can cope with it!

Postby theRenegade » Wed Jul 20, 2016 9:52 am

dsiegfried wrote:I've never used the Buildtak plate that came with my N1. I prefer a flexible surface to print on, that way you can bend the plate and the part often pops right off.


That's good to know, but why don't you just open a separate thread about it. This thread is intended to show that there is no problem if using the original equipped print bed if you treat it right. It's not about that one might think it's not the best you can have or feel the need to do otherwise. I just have read so much warnings in the forum about BT that do not apply (if treated right).

theRenegade
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 11:58 am

Re: BuildTak works good, if you can cope with it!

Postby theRenegade » Wed Jul 20, 2016 10:07 am

2CNK wrote:Do you have any guidance on the specifics of ABS slurry reconditioning? i.e. what proportion of ABS to acetone, how much to apply, etc? Does it matter much?

I did a quick google search on reconditioning buildtak but didn't get any hits. Seems like a good thing to know.

Good question, i asked it myself before using ABS slurry the first time. :-)
I did not found any guidance, just use acetone and solve pieces of ABS in it until it gets a consistency similar to milk.
I use removed support (ABS) I collected from another printer, this pieces are very thin and can be easily cut.

Re reconditioning: I think you will not find anything about it because it was not intended by the manufacturer (of course).
It's just something I tried. Some days ago I heard that ABS slurry is good to glue almost anything wich is right, but with the BT it restores the ability to hold the print when bed is heated and get it off without much effort if cooled down. That's why I called it 'reconditioning'.

How much to apply depends on how 'thick' your ABS slurry is, just use not too much since this would create layers and make your bed a bit rough.


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