Warping Issues

[jacobcatchen]

Hello all,

I recently got an N2 Plus and am starting to break it in a bit.. I am having a few problems with my print wanting to warp though. When printing in PLA I used a raft on one print which was going nicely until the corners of the raft started to warp up which led to the print warping. I had the bed at about 50 degrees F here to try out. Next I tried another print with PLA with a raft and a brim and the bed at 100 degrees F. The raft stuck excellently to the bed but then when the print started, it showed signs of warping on the corners as well. I am new to the Raised3D community and was wondering if anyone had any advice to offer or different settings to try?

Thanks!

[Michael.P@Raise3D]

Hi jacobcatchen,

My recommendation is to set your bed plate to 60c and adjust your nozzle height with the .2mm shim included in the accessories kit. Remember to have the top cover off while printing with PLA otherwise the chamber will heat up too much and cause the filament to grind out on longer prints. Let us know if there is anything more you need answered.

-Michael

[jacobcatchen]

Thank you very much Michael.. As for ABS what are your recommendations there?

[Michael.P@Raise3D]

Fan Covers on and top cover on and bring the bed temp up to 100c at least. Close all doors as well to keep the excess heat in the chamber. The method of printing ABS and PLA are almost opposite to each other.

[Rogman]

Yeah, I run PLA with both front and side doors open and top propped up. nozzle temp 205 c and bed temp 60 c. I still fought a bit of curling so I insulated the hot end to remove the "radiant" heat from reaching the part. as Michael said ABS is opposite, nozzle temps around 235 c and bed temp of 110c top and all doors closed. also run the heat bed for about 10 min to warm the chamber also helps. just remember PLA wants to be cooled rapidly to avoid curling and ABS wants to cool slowly to avoid curling.

[Casale8]

MichaelP's suggestion worked for me recently. I also implemented the use of ELMER's extra strength glue stick on the buildtak to force good adhesion. So far no issues with the bottom warping up... ANYMORE.

These forums are super helpful!

[Michael.P@Raise3D]

Glue on Buildtak is a dirty method to get stick down but it is proven to work when applied!

[EldRick]

Glue on glass without the Buildtak works better. Try flipping the build plate over and use the glass side to try it.

[jacobcatchen]

I'm trying to print some abs now but I'm having trouble with my nozzle going about 225.

[Michael.P@Raise3D]

@jacobcatchen,

you need to change the profile in ideaMaker to ABS when you go to slice the model.

[jacobcatchen]

I have done that but I'm still having trouble breaking 225/226