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Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 2:45 pm
by Zettlinger
Buildtak shouldnt need anything on it if you set the nozzle distance right.

Do NOT clean with aceton or anything stronger then 70% alcohol

Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 6:29 pm
by Andy Cohen
I use Aquanet (Note NOT HS in general) Super Extra hold unscented on the Buildtak... not for stick... but for easier release. In time I will remove the Buildtak.

Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 11:26 pm
by Andy Cohen
swampy wrote:thanks lads that a lesson learnt in in builttak I normally use a piece of paper to set my nozzle up on my other printer will it work the same or shall I use feeler gauge or a have shim steel at work that I can use

Your delivered N2/N2+ cannot be leveled in the way I think you are assuming... unless you are getting an N1?
If an N2/N2+ you will adjust the overall distance from the hotend to the plate with the Z limit switch adjustment screw... see the Wiki.
Otherwise the N2/N2+ bed comes factory set for leveling. You get what you get... Unless you mod it as i did.

Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 12:54 am
by Julia Truchsess
Andy Cohen wrote:
swampy wrote:thanks lads that a lesson learnt in in builttak I normally use a piece of paper to set my nozzle up on my other printer will it work the same or shall I use feeler gauge or a have shim steel at work that I can use

Your delivered N2/N2+ cannot be leveled in the way I think you are assuming... unless you are getting an N1?
If an N2/N2+ you will adjust the overall distance from the hotend to the plate with the Z limit switch adjustment screw... see the Wiki.
Otherwise the N2/N2+ bed comes factory set for leveling. You get what you get... Unless you mod it as i did.


I think he's talking about setting the initial platform height. I adjust it by eye and trial and error, until I see that the first layer is well-smushed into the build plate but the distance is big enough to not cause extrusion failure due to back-pressure, or "elephant's foot" spreading of the first layer if printing raftless.

I scribble Elmer's washable purple disappearing office-grade glue stick on the buildtak and then spread it around into a film with a damp paper towel before printing. Probably the same net effect as hairspray, but I prefer the stick.

Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 3:19 am
by John@Raise3D
Feeler gauge is of course more accurate, but you can get around with a piece of paper also.

Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:25 am
by Andy Cohen
If what Julia wrote is the case....
Go to the utilities area then home Z. Then disable the motors by selecting the icon in the upper left corner. Then move the carriage so it is over the plate and then you can put the feeler or paper under to see your distance. You would them move the Z height screw by the Z limit switch a touch either way... then hit home again.

Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:12 pm
by firesped
I've been having not had to use anything besides the buildtek lately with the z-switch screw set right. I do sugjest you do Julia's z-switch screw spring mod. I've found that once you break the factory set tension, it will start to slip, which will reduce the distance between the nozzles and the glass plate. making it hard to get the print off the buildtek. I think also the slipping might be related to the print shifting. I had slightly shifted prints and that slipping is the only thing I can really think of that may have changed on the prints.

I bought a 127 spring from Ace Hardware.

Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:03 pm
by Matthew Lozano
firesped wrote:I've found that once you break the factory set tension, it will start to slip, which will reduce the distance between the nozzles and the glass plate.


The Z adjust screw should have a nut on the bottom you need to loosen before adjustment then tighten back down after your done.

Re: bed adhesion

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 12:32 am
by firesped
slipping down, = nozzle closer to be bed, I tightened the nut which stops It from going up.