Buildtak

Thoughts about Raise3D, 3D printing and making in general.
Zettlinger
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Re: Buildtak

Postby Zettlinger » Thu May 19, 2016 11:13 am

i suspect they use Simplify3D to make their G-code

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Trhuster
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Re: Buildtak

Postby Trhuster » Thu May 19, 2016 11:24 am

Thomarann wrote:Now I just heat the bed to 45*C for PLA and laydown the first layer at 213*C and all the others at 215*c and it all works like a charm.

Marc


With so little difference as 2c i am pretty sure it has nothing to do with why it is working for you. It alot more important what temp bed is and how close to the bed first layer height is.

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LogicEthos
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Re: Buildtak

Postby LogicEthos » Thu May 19, 2016 1:36 pm

Try a freezer spray to release your print https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mx38MydwtQ

AR_LA
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Re: Buildtak

Postby AR_LA » Fri May 20, 2016 12:56 pm

In printing what felt like a million cubes yesterday, and not wanting them to lift at all, I made sure I had great bed adhesion to the buildtak.

And then I stumbled into the easiest way I've removed a stick print from that surface, I slide a .05-.07mm (whatever is handy) feeler gauge under a corner and work my way across. For stubborn prints I was able to slide the spatula under the gauge easily.

This ended up being so easy for me that I'm getting some .04mm shim stock just for this use.

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walshlg
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Re: Buildtak

Postby walshlg » Fri May 20, 2016 4:44 pm

Nice AR-LA

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Thomarann
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Re: Buildtak

Postby Thomarann » Sat May 21, 2016 3:57 pm

Trhuster wrote:
Thomarann wrote:Now I just heat the bed to 45*C for PLA and laydown the first layer at 213*C and all the others at 215*c and it all works like a charm.

Marc


With so little difference as 2c i am pretty sure it has nothing to do with why it is working for you. It alot more important what temp bed is and how close to the bed first layer height is.


Maybe but 210 warped at the corner while 213 did not and 215 damaged the buildtak coming off so it seems like a few degrees does make a difference.

And yes, I'm doing this is S3D

Marc
Marc. N2 Dual

lylewaters
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Re: Buildtak

Postby lylewaters » Fri May 27, 2016 5:19 am

Wow, I didn't expect so much emotion/controversy on a forum for 3D printing. I am new to 3D printing and I am hoping that I can learn a lot from the various users and posts. I understand that different people will have different experiences and this is to be expected with the wide range of variables that 3D printing encompasses.

This thread in particular did seem like it turned into a pissing contest. Not sure if it was the comments in this thread or built up from other posts (I haven't read the entire forum - yet) but it certainly seemed like things got hot pretty quickly. I can understand what it is like to feel passionate about something and to use words that some people might find offensive/condescending, I am often guilty of this myself. I'm glad to see that things have calmed down a bit. As a new/inexperienced user, I really do want to see and hear about lots of people's experiences.

I just got my printer 2 days ago. I turned it on, set it up and printed the test cube. I didn't make any adjustments and didn't fiddle around with anything. I found it a little bit challenging to mount the build plate because it came with 4 metal clips and no real directions on where/how to mount them. I thought about using just the 2 in the back, but remembering that some users posted about the plate coming loose with only those clips being used, I thought that I should find a way to get the other 4 clips installed. They can be sharp, and so can the plate. I managed to get it installed without cutting myself.

The Buildtak stuck so well, that when I was trying to get the small calibration cube off the plate, my hand slipped and I managed ti get a 1" long gash in my thumb where it rubbed along the front edge of the built plate. The next print I let cool for a bit before I tried to remove it. It was a bit larger (soap dish) and it was a little bit easier to remove (it was also taller and I had more substance to grip). My third print was fairly thin and flat and I struggled to remove it from the build plate. All prints included a raft. It feels like the raft wastes a lot of material but it did give me a bit of a piece of mind that I wouldn't be damaging the print when I used the scraper to try to get the print to release.

Hopefully everyone can find a way to play nicely here. Experienced users bickering among themselves isn't very helpful to new people and certainly doesn't provide a positive community experience. Some of us don't make our living doing this, we're just trying to find a way to get our kids interested in technology.

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: Buildtak

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Fri May 27, 2016 6:51 am

There is no need to install the all 4 binder clips on build plate. We didn't rule the clips' position so that the clips can change place according to the shape of your model. If you are only use the full size of left nozzle, there will have safe area in the right and back side of the build plate. If you are using the full size of the right nozzle, there will have safe area in the left and back ride of the build plate.

If your print is small, you can lower the build plate a little to remove the print. Or the nozzles will hurt you.
We always recommend the RAFT. RAFT can make the remove easier.

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rlballard
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Re: Buildtak

Postby rlballard » Fri May 27, 2016 1:19 pm

Here is another view point, I have switched over to the Zebra Plate after hearing of Andy's initial success. I have been extremely impressed with adhesion and release characteristics. They are every bit of what they are promoted to be and will work with all the materials we are printing. They are worth a review and a chance, they have an N2 plate based off of my customer order and are great guys to work with. I will not go back to Buildtak or go through the hassle of finding the right chemistry to get parts to work this product just works and lets you focus on design not baby sitting a print....

http://www.printinz.com/

Just my experience and thought I would pass it along.
BB

lylewaters
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Re: Buildtak

Postby lylewaters » Fri May 27, 2016 4:09 pm

I just looked at their site and I don't see one that is sized for the N2, maybe they didn't update their site yet? What size did yours end up being and how much did it cost? Thanks!

Rogman
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Re: Buildtak

Postby Rogman » Fri May 27, 2016 8:01 pm

N2 has a 305mm x 305mm so go with the 300mm x 300mm zebra plate. around $77

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rlballard
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Re: Buildtak

Postby rlballard » Sat May 28, 2016 12:37 am

Lylewaters,
It is under the shop by printer tab, here is the link to the N2. You can't go by the size of the build volume.
From their site:
"The N2/N2 Plus model uses a 332mm x 340mm plate. This is available for $96."
"The N1 model needs a 235mm x 260mm plate. This is available for $54."

http://www.printinz.com/raise3d/

BB...

Charles
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Re: Buildtak

Postby Charles » Sat May 28, 2016 7:15 am

rlballard, do u use the zebra plate with the glass plate or by itself, if you use it without the glass plate, how does the zebra plate stay flat? I rely on the glass for the flatness since my header bed is not that flat.

thanks1

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rlballard
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Re: Buildtak

Postby rlballard » Sun May 29, 2016 2:45 am

Charles,
I use it without the glass, however I guess you could without a problem. I have trammed my plate and it runs pretty true and I have not seen any issues. I would just mount it over the glass and secure it with binder clips. Turn the bed on and let it settle in, I really like the plate.
BB

EL Cuajinais
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Re: Buildtak

Postby EL Cuajinais » Mon May 30, 2016 1:54 am

I did the glue stick with my previous printer at first and hated all the work involved. I quickly switched to PEI and loved that. Then I was introduced to BuildTak with my N2. About three weeks into my N2, I accidentally ripped the BuildTak with my scraping razor (so i removed it completely).

I was looking into installing PEI but after reading all the fuss about the purple Aquanet on this thread I thought I'd give it a go. There's no going back for me now. It is nearly as convenient as PEI; you do lose a little convenience because of the occasional spraying. But you gain a lot of peace of mind that instead of ruining an expensive surface (PEI, BuildTak, Zebra) the worse thing that can happen is you have to reapply Aquanet. And that thing is so cheap it is nearly free. Another advantage: You get to choose the bottom finish. You can apply Aquanet for glossy or matte bottom finishes. And just like PEI, the prints pop off by themselves most of the time after cooling. And unlike PEI, you can remove prints while the build plate is still hot. I also love that because of the LEDS on the N2 are positioned to the side, it illuminates the inside of the glass build plate (like a fiber optic cable). So printing on glass that first layer really pops and looks very cool compared to printing on the BuildTak.

Also on the expensive surfaces, once you scratch them, that sratch will forever show on the bottom surface of your prints. With Aquanet, if you want to ensure a perfect bottom surface in one particular print, you just reapply fresh Aquanet.

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JohnSays
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Location: Saint Petersburg, FL

Re: Buildtak

Postby JohnSays » Fri Jul 08, 2016 11:13 pm

To El Cuajinais: Just to be clear, are you saying that you use glass and Aquanet only? If so, does it work with PLA, HIPS, ABS, and PET?
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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JohnSays
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Re: Buildtak

Postby JohnSays » Tue Aug 16, 2016 10:47 pm

I thought I would bring my experience with BuildTak to the thread because I didn't see what I do mentioned. So some of my first experiences with BuildTak are of it holding a printed piece incredibly strong -- as I believe Andy was describing. I was able to overcome this in a very simple way. I took the putty knife supplied by Raise3D (I filed the sharp edges a bit round so as to not cut the BuildTak) and placed it against the bottom of my print and give it a good WACK with the heal of my hand and the print just flew off. It comes off so hard that it hits the inside of the printer. I mean THWACK. It really takes that much force. I have done that many times and this has finally resulted in the surface of my BuildTak being slightly deformed and pulled up in the center. So, then I started using Aqua Net and/or a glue stick and I got a good release when using the BuildTak -- I did not know to do this until I read this thread. I just assumed that hitting it hard worked so okay, right? Also, many times I could just get a nice thin removal tool under it and the print just came off easily, but for those times when it was really stuck... THWACK!

But the other day I thought, why not just use the glass if I am always using AQ or glue or both together? So now I print on glass. I remember JetGuy stated that that is what he has been doing, like, forever, so why not? I was about to buy the Zebra Plate, but thought, "Why not try the glass first?" I mean, I'm a noobie right? So I should try what the experts are using. So far I have to say that the glass has been dead simple and easy and cheap to boot. I don't use any kind of clips on the glass because I have the the heat transfer film under it and that maintains its position with a nice strong stick.
Last edited by JohnSays on Sun Feb 12, 2017 12:33 am, edited 2 times in total.
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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rlballard
Posts: 181
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Re: Buildtak

Postby rlballard » Wed Aug 17, 2016 2:14 am

Try one of these, they work extremely well...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NP ... UTF8&psc=1

BB

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JohnSays
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Re: Buildtak

Postby JohnSays » Wed Aug 17, 2016 6:32 pm

BB, you're going to make me go broke buying all this good stuff! :lol: Ordered it, but got the Prime one with 2 day shipping.
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

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rlballard
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Re: Buildtak

Postby rlballard » Thu Aug 18, 2016 12:45 am

I use it exclusively and it removes part effortlessly, however I am also using Zebra Plates on my system so that may have something to do with removal ease. A suggestion these are hyper sharp, so the edges ding up. Keep a piece of sand paper handy and hold it like you are removing parts, flat, work it back and forth until you remove the bumps on the back...
BB


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