Buildtak

Thoughts about Raise3D, 3D printing and making in general.
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JohnSays
Posts: 704
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2016 2:42 pm
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL

Re: Buildtak

Postby JohnSays » Thu Aug 18, 2016 1:10 am

Thanks. I have a diamond hone that twill be excellent for that.

Btw, I'm about to do Andy Cohen's table mod due to you making mention of it and me looking it up. I now listen to the podcasts whenever I get a chance. -- like when I'm driving or cooking or whatever... So thanks again. I feel that you have been a real ally in my quest to get the Raise3D up to snuff. You're posts have had a very good effect on me!
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

Pierre
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2016 8:19 am

Re: Buildtak

Postby Pierre » Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:00 am

Hi,

I broke, my building plate because I printed a flat solid part that I couldn't remove from buildtak.
IMG_20160818_123505.jpg

IMG_20160818_123519.jpg

I had to build some parts this weekend and of course, I didn't have any spare glass or buildtak....

So I used an emergency trick that worked very well :

I took an old Zortrax m200 used build plate, removed the connector, and fixed it on a PMMA plate. Of course you can only produce parts smaller than 200x200, but when you have no other solution... I made 7 prints without any problem.


IMG_20160821_101107.jpg

Have a nice day
Pierre

Andy Cohen
Posts: 170
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 4:43 pm

Re: Buildtak

Postby Andy Cohen » Mon Sep 05, 2016 7:47 pm

Pierre wrote:Hi,

I broke, my building plate because I printed a flat solid part that I couldn't remove from buildtak.
IMG_20160818_123505.jpg

IMG_20160818_123519.jpg

I had to build some parts this weekend and of course, I didn't have any spare glass or buildtak....

So I used an emergency trick that worked very well :

I took an old Zortrax m200 used build plate, removed the connector, and fixed it on a PMMA plate. Of course you can only produce parts smaller than 200x200, but when you have no other solution... I made 7 prints without any problem.


IMG_20160821_101107.jpg

Have a nice day
Pierre

As I stated back in April, eventually if you print enough stuff you will run into a use case where Buildtak will really trip you up. Pierre just provided a good example. As such, it's ok if you print a limited set of object designs which work Ok with it. Some people operate like that. Otherwise it is in your best interest to learn other methods and decouple Buildtak form your Raise3D machine as well as your work task processes.
I operate my N2 (as well as all the other machines I have) with multiple plates mostly plain plate glass. i use Aquanet super extra hold unscented which I and many others have found to be the optimal solution for most FDM 3D printing with very few exceptions (e.g., 618). If you cannot get Aquanet, glue stick with PVA or watered down PVA works too (but not as well as Aquanet, IMO).
How to use Aquanet? Thats another thread. I do not recommend just spraying it onto the plate with the plate still in the printer!

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walshlg
Posts: 1350
Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2016 12:01 pm

Re: Buildtak

Postby walshlg » Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:59 pm

I bought one of these
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=812

I like it. I do worry about gouging the surface but then again I am a worrier. So far its taken all the abuse I've feed it

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JohnSays
Posts: 704
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2016 2:42 pm
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL

Re: Buildtak

Postby JohnSays » Sun Feb 12, 2017 12:43 am

I broke down and bought the Zebra plate. rlballard is right about how well it works. I am printing a lot of eSun ABS and ABS+ and the Zebra plate holds it very nicely. My bigger parts do not lift or warp. In some cases it sticks too nicely though. I have found that if I have too much squish on the first layer, the print is extremely hard to get off the plate - hot or cold. Even with the right squish, if the print fails or I stop it within the early stages - like one to 6 layers; then getting it off is a real bugger. The ABS is so stuck that only scraping at it with a sharp removal tool finally gets it off. The problem is that although the Zebra plate bends and allows the print to snap loose, it cannot help if the part is so thin it also bends.

Lastly, I could not get PETG to stick at all. I have found using a glass plate with just Kapton tape is perfect for PETG.
- John

2 Raise3D N2 Duals, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection, Firmware 1.1.9ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette 2 Pro, Custom E3D hot end and ultra-light carriage and printer head

plee1024
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 2:25 am

Re: Buildtak

Postby plee1024 » Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:46 am

I'm with Andy, I finally stopped using Buildtak. Back to the plain glass and Aquanet like my first cheapo 3d printer and getting more consistent prints

Tinkerer
Posts: 176
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2017 8:30 pm
Location: Germany

Re: Buildtak

Postby Tinkerer » Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:12 pm

After reading through this >1 year old thread I was wondering whether Buildtak is a too religious topic to talk about...
Anyhow, I take the risk;-)

So, how is your experience with buildtak?
How long does it last?

I seem to already have used up the second buildtak - just for printing rubbish on it due to the fact that my N2
even after having it reworked is still not able to produce really presentable results. At least not consistently.

But even PLA-prints begin to not stick on the buildplate now.
After one week of usage!

Considering the price of the buildtak-surface, I wonder if I want to continue to use this stuff.

I even have a buildtak flex plate kit lying around here but can not convince myself to try it -
since I do not trust this stuff anymore and mounting this flex kit I would be doomed to use that one eternally...
...there's nothing like the smell of fresh ABS in the morning...

tja
Posts: 191
Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2016 10:24 pm
Location: Essex, UK

Re: Buildtak

Postby tja » Wed Dec 06, 2017 8:50 pm

So, how is your experience with buildtak?


I would say 'not bad', I would give it 6 or maybe a 7 out of 10. It's my surface of choice for PLA and TPU, mainly because I have 3 or 4 sheets of it lying around. With care I can get a sheet of Buiildtak to last 3 months. What I dislike is that the grip to the PLA can be variable, which can be due at times to the design of the part.

I print PETG mostly and for that Bt is not good. It doesn't adhere well at lower temps say 40-50C, then sticks (almost permanently!) above that. I wrecked a couple of sheets before I learned my lesson and tried other surfaces. Now I use plain glass for PETG and life is good, although I have found that the glass has to be very clean to work reliably.

But even PLA-prints begin to not stick on the buildplate now.
After one week of usage!


In my experience if the Buildtak looks okay and if a part used to print on Bt but now doesn't, either the Bt needs a clean with soapy water to degrease it (I used to use IPA but I found that can leave a greasy smear) or the bed height/level is off and needs to be tweaked.

Will I buy more Buildtak? Probably, but I'm still waiting for the true all-rounder that holds well during printing, let's go of the part as soon as the print is finished, works for any filament, costs about the same as a glass plate, lasts forever... Not too much to ask for is it?


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