Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

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AKazak
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Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby AKazak » Mon Aug 01, 2022 5:05 am

Greetings!

I set a job up on Friday evening and it started successfully.
Then left it printing over the weekend.
On Monday morning I observed the following state with the Task Finished! green sign on the LCD display:
Image
Image
Image

What are to possible reason for this issue?
Is there a way to remove the solid filament safely and put it back to operation?

Thank you.
--
AK

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ccclarke
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Re: Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby ccclarke » Tue Aug 02, 2022 3:34 am

This is an easier repair; it could have been much more difficult to fix if the build surface had a huge mound on it and the print head was jammed in place. (Been there, done that several times when I first started printing.) Read this procedure thoroughly before you start. It isn't hard, but you have to document everything you dissassemble and place the removed parts with associated fasteners together. A few pictures taken as you go will help too - especially for wire routing. The tools I recommend below are must-haves in my repair kit and get used for a lot of other jobs as well. I keep a pair of spare, populated heater blocks for quick swap-outs to minimize downtime, allowing me to keep working while I clean up the parts from the old print head(s). Sometimes it can take more than a day to remove the debris.

Let's begin to begin:

1. Denergize the printer power and loosen the fan shrouds to move them out of the way. I usually hang them over the X Y rods.
2. Use a decent, small nozzle heat gun, like an ESD-safe Weller to carefully soften the glob of filament until it can be easily removed with pliers and/or tweezers. When using a Weller, you will greatly prolong the life of the heater by setting it to blow air with the heater off until the nozzle is cool to the touch.

Available here: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-6966C-Wat ... e904010ad0

3. If the heater and thermister grub screws are covered with filament, you'll need to heat up each heater block, (using the screen controls) to remove the associated grub screws when the filament melts enough to allow easy entry of the supplied allen wrench, then back them out. Place the grub screws in a closed container of acetone overnight to allow the filament to soften. I use small, pointed lab-grade cotton swabs to blean the threads, but a brass brush works too.

These are the swabs I use and highly recommend: https://www.hisco.com/Product/CCT2425-9 ... gJgifD_BwE

4. To remove the heater rod and thermister from each heater block, de-mate the connectors for each and loosen the associated collet clamp, which allows the block to be removed. Place each block in a vise to secure it in place while the heat gun is used to heat the block and allow removal of the heater rod and thermister. Clamp as little of the block area into the vise jaws as needed to securely hold the block to minimize the jaws from becoming a heat sink.

I use a Palmgren vise, but this is a cheap clone: https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-3900-1730-G ... 12499&th=1

--If the throat tube is blocked by cooled filament, (and it likely is) before heating the block in the vise, use an appropriateley-sized pin gauge with a small jewelr's hammer to gently tap the filament plug out; no heating is required. With the block heated, gently remove the throat tube and clean the interface threads in each. Do not apply torque when removing a stuck throat tube. The bottom of the tube is very thin to minimize heat travel and will shear easily. Allow the heat to do the work and loosen the threads.

(WARNING: Do not attempt to heat the block using the software to set the temp or you run the risk of thermal overload when either heater rod or thermister is removed under power!)

5. Submerge each removed heater block in acetone with the grub screws to make cleaning the bores for the heater rod and thermister much easie, using the swaber. Use acetone tp wipe the removed heater rod and thermister bodies removing residual filament or debris.

6. Set the heat sink height, (in really bad filament globs, those can be affected as well and need to be removed for cleaning) and reinstall the throat tube into the heater block, followed by the heater rod(s) and thermister(s). The populated print heads live in my spares box until the next disaster strikes.

Any time you leave a long print running unattended, (especially at work over a weekend) that's when these kinds of failures seem to occur. A remotely-monitored camera is especially useful.

I hope this helps and good luck!

CC
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AKazak
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Re: Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby AKazak » Tue Aug 02, 2022 12:42 pm

Dear CC,

Thank you very much for providing such detailed instruction.
Well done!

Actually I could remove almost all filament using a small-nozzle heat gun and by heating the left block.
So far all is done without disassembling the printing head.
My current state is the following:
Image

Is there a way to gently remove the pre-burned plastic without disassembly?
Currently I am thinking about heating the left nozzle to 150°С and use paper tissue to remove the remaining odds and ends.
Is there a better way?

Thank you.
--
AK

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AKazak
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Re: Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby AKazak » Tue Aug 02, 2022 12:51 pm

I want to share a list possible root causes for this kind of issue received from a official Raise3D service representative:

1) Calibration of the extruder's Z-axis height is not accurate enough, the distance between the nozzle and the printing surface was more than 0.2 mm.
2) Low adhesive properties of the material.
3) When creating a g-code file for printing, the model was not flat against the printing table.
4) The print file temperature setting does not match the actual operating temperature of the material.
5) The printing surface has mechanical damages that is not allowed for use.
6) Unskilled/incorrect maintenance of the extruder.
--
AK

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ccclarke
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Re: Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby ccclarke » Wed Aug 03, 2022 4:04 am

As far as removal of residue, Unless it's a small, easily-accessible portion of the print head, I find it easier, faster, and more thorough to just remove the head and clean it up on a bench.

I've had good experiences using KimWipes to clean all exterior parts of 3D printers and keep a box in my spares kit. They'll see a lot more use besides wiping down the build plate with IPA between prints.

Available here:

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Kim ... 188&sr=8-3

If you decide to replace the damaged Kaptin tape that remains, it would be easier to remove and replace the damaged portions by dropping the head(s).

CC
Male Modeler / Sub-Human

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AKazak
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Re: Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby AKazak » Wed Aug 03, 2022 4:44 am

Got it!
What chemical substances can I use to facilitate removal of plastic from metal parts: alcohol, white spirit, acetone or something else?
--
AK

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ccclarke
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Re: Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby ccclarke » Wed Aug 03, 2022 4:19 pm

I use IPA for general cleaning of metal surfaces, (Kapton and other aerospace quality tape will usually release with just a little exposure to it) and for removal of filament residue, acetone softens it enough for easy removal with high-quality, lab-grade cotton swabs.

IPA and acetone evaporate quickly too.
Last edited by ccclarke on Wed Aug 03, 2022 11:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Male Modeler / Sub-Human

User avatar
AKazak
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2022 4:16 am

Re: Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby AKazak » Wed Aug 03, 2022 4:58 pm

Thank you for providing the valuable suggestions.
I really appreciate this.

Interestigly: my local Raise3D sales representative is pushing me hard to send the printer to their service shop for paid service to fix the issue :?
--
AK

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ccclarke
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Re: Raise3D Pro2 Plus: filament jam during printing

Postby ccclarke » Thu Aug 04, 2022 12:04 am

For some owners, their technical expertise extends only as far as configuring a slicer and setting the printer up. Paid repair services are geared toward them.

You appear to fall into the category of an owner who isn't intimidated by installing and aligning replacement parts and performing routine (and this type of failed print is pretty standard) repairs, and will never be tethered to a repair shop, saving you time and money. The more you read through the posts here, the more you'll learn, as there are some pretty knowlegeable contributors. All of us start at the beginning.

CC
Male Modeler / Sub-Human


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