Printing above 250°...

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ocelot27
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Printing above 250°...

Postby ocelot27 » Sat Mar 30, 2019 8:55 pm

For those of you who have real needs to print with materials other than PLA, PETG, Etc - the cooling issue or lack thereof with the Raise Pro2 design needs to be addressed by Raise. In the mean time - here's a solution that doesn't cost much, doesn't involve water and doesn't add significant weight to the print head.

As an added benefit, you get access to the myriad of e3d compatible nozzles already out there - ruby, Slice's new high speed tool steel nozzle, etc etc etc for printing abrasives or whatever you want. You will loose about 20mm of build height - but it takes some room to remove massive amounts of heat - especially when there's a servo in the way. Good for up to 450° or higher. - Jams not included.

Added 360° cooling with blowers.

https://www.sliceengineering.com
https://youtu.be/eJkWToFNfUk
-john

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Heckler
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Heckler » Fri Apr 19, 2019 8:37 pm

Any firmware modifications needed?

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ocelot27
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby ocelot27 » Mon Apr 29, 2019 1:49 pm

No - just need to print the duct which I have a newer version of, wire the fans and the new heaters and thermocouples. You will need to lower the z-axis optical end stop too.

-john

Heckler
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Heckler » Fri May 03, 2019 8:50 pm

Nice!, how does this mount to the existing extruder head? are the silver plates above the Mosquito's something you made to mount them?

Sunshine
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Sunshine » Fri May 10, 2019 11:15 am

That is so nice!

What did you get except the mosquito hot ends? Thermistors and heat rods? I'm thinking I need to adress my issues with this hot ends as soon as possible. I know you wrote that you did not need any FW mods but could you install the mosquito thermistor and heat rod without changing anything?

Did you make your own adapter, to attach to the nozzle switching system?

Jetguy
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Jetguy » Fri May 10, 2019 5:35 pm

ALL Raise 3D printers both N series and Pro use a thermocouple temp sensor interface (Type K thermocouples specifically).
The extruder head breakout board contains 2 AD597 thermocouple amplifiers that converts the microvolt signal produced by the thermocouple to a 0-5V analog interface carried to the mainboard.

Yes, absolutely, you can get dozens of different tipped K type thermocouples that can insert or be attached to various heater block systems.
Tab style, rod style, short or long, different sizes, but all electrically type K.

Most likely using an E3D rod style to adapt to various different heater blocks (in this case, the Mosquito).
https://e3d-online.com/type-k-thermocouple-cartridge
These new Type-K Thermocouple, 3mm x 15mm cylindrical package for compatibility with all of our cartridge-style E3D heater blocks.

This was discussed in a previous Mosquito hotend discussion- use of E3D thermocouples.

Jetguy
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Jetguy » Fri May 10, 2019 5:59 pm

This previous topic https://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php ... ito#p43914

And we know it works, John was using it as well.

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ocelot27
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby ocelot27 » Thu Jun 13, 2019 1:08 pm

You can use any K type TC really - and they're easy to make if you have the wire. You can get good wire from Omega - the K coloring convention is yellow for the positive alloy and red for the negative alloy. We used to make them using a small 12V lead acid battery and a block of Graphite - now I use a pulse arc welder. I'm sure you can find a million YouTube videos on how to make them...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZjwA1rTdjM

-john

Sunshine
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Sunshine » Mon Jun 24, 2019 1:00 pm

Thanks for the tip, I will probably use the e3d thermistors when I change out the hot ends. I have made an adapter for the mosquito, which I plan to print. Have you printed yours or have you made it in another way? If the heat dissapation is as good as you say it is I think I could get away with using ABS or PETG for it. Otherwise I can also print it in nylon or PEEK.

Jetguy
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Jetguy » Mon Jun 24, 2019 1:29 pm

Sunshine wrote:Thanks for the tip, I will probably use the e3d thermistors when I change out the hot ends. I have made an adapter for the mosquito, which I plan to print. Have you printed yours or have you made it in another way? If the heat dissapation is as good as you say it is I think I could get away with using ABS or PETG for it. Otherwise I can also print it in nylon or PEEK.


Think you meant thermocouple, thermistors are not natively compatible with the raise 3D system.
Make sure you understand this before buying parts.

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ocelot27
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby ocelot27 » Mon Jun 24, 2019 2:41 pm

You will need to have an adapter machined - the tolerances are too tight for FDM and the part will need to be pretty strong.

-john

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ocelot27
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby ocelot27 » Mon Jun 24, 2019 2:43 pm

Jetguy wrote:
Sunshine wrote:Thanks for the tip, I will probably use the e3d thermistors when I change out the hot ends. I have made an adapter for the mosquito, which I plan to print. Have you printed yours or have you made it in another way? If the heat dissapation is as good as you say it is I think I could get away with using ABS or PETG for it. Otherwise I can also print it in nylon or PEEK.


Think you meant thermocouple, thermistors are not natively compatible with the raise 3D system.
Make sure you understand this before buying parts.


I think you meant "thermocoupler" :o

Jetguy
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Jetguy » Mon Jun 24, 2019 3:40 pm

ocelot27 wrote:I think you meant "thermocoupler" :o


No, it's thermocouple https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple
Raise3D and users made up this thing that doesn't exist called a thermocoupler.

Sunshine
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Sunshine » Mon Jun 24, 2019 6:22 pm

Jetguy wrote:
Sunshine wrote:Thanks for the tip, I will probably use the e3d thermistors when I change out the hot ends. I have made an adapter for the mosquito, which I plan to print. Have you printed yours or have you made it in another way? If the heat dissapation is as good as you say it is I think I could get away with using ABS or PETG for it. Otherwise I can also print it in nylon or PEEK.


Think you meant thermocouple, thermistors are not natively compatible with the raise 3D system.
Make sure you understand this before buying parts.


Sure, thanks for the correction.

Sunshine
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Sunshine » Mon Jun 24, 2019 6:23 pm

ocelot27 wrote:You will need to have an adapter machined - the tolerances are too tight for FDM and the part will need to be pretty strong.

-john


Challenge accepted 8-)

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ocelot27
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby ocelot27 » Mon Jun 24, 2019 9:12 pm

Don't forget you will ned to either raise the Z adjustment mechanism at least 20mm depending on your adapter (another reason to machine it - save space) or lower the Z end stop switch.

-john

Sunshine
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby Sunshine » Tue Jun 25, 2019 5:32 pm

Yes thanks, will keep that in mind!

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ocelot27
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby ocelot27 » Tue Jun 25, 2019 6:19 pm

Jetguy wrote:
ocelot27 wrote:I think you meant "thermocoupler" :o


No, it's thermocouple https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple
Raise3D and users made up this thing that doesn't exist called a thermocoupler.


Sarcasm. I know what a thermocouple is - I've made hundreds of them.

aircooled
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby aircooled » Mon Nov 11, 2019 10:01 am

Hi community
it sounds very interesting to convert the pro 2 with mosquitos.
I would like to upgrade my pro 2 and have a question:
- is it possible to change both hot ends to the mosquito's?

@ocelot27: is it possible to share your adapter model, and tell me what parts i need to use the mosquitos. Z-level adjustment is no problem.

thanks for your help.

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ocelot27
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Re: Printing above 250°...

Postby ocelot27 » Thu Dec 05, 2019 2:21 pm

Slice is coming out with a Raise specific solution - see their kickstarter - I would wait for this and use blower cooling for the heatsinks.


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