Getting rid of PLA stringing on detailed Prints?

[phildon]

Hi,

first of all my Pro2 makes really nice Prints, but only on Prints with large areas.

check this


As u can see, no strings at all and really good quality, even a dual extruder 2 Colors print came out nearly perfect.

but when i try to print more detailed and small objects i get alot of strings, even with Premium PLA, tried it with Geeetech PLA, Bibo 3D PLA and Original Raise3D Premium PLA, so it is not a Filament problem.

Check the results



Link to the Model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:912478

it is not very stable and also the quality is really poor because of the stringing...

How to get rid of this stringing? I use the Original Raise3D Speed PLA Profile, Temp is 205°C (Lowest Temp recommended for the Raise3D Pla), Fan is set to 100%, only minor change is i've set the layer height from 0.25 to 0.2.

What can be the solution? Increase the Retraction? Enable Coasting? Lower the Temp?

Maybe someone is here who already got rid of this problem and can share his profile?

Or is it a Hardware limitation that FFF Printers can't Print such small detailed Objects without stringing?

Thanks in advance

Greets PhilDon

[Russ406]

Stringing is generally from two things.

Too high of temperature which I see you're running pretty low, but one thing I would caution to is don't be afraid to experiment outside of the recommended temperatures. Before messing w/ temperatures though I'd suggest upping the travel speed to at least 150 mm/s. Faster travel moves will "break" the filament instead of stringing it along. It also seems you are printing pretty small / detailed parts. You may want to consider a .2mm nozzle and smaller layers. But I'd first start w/ travel speed and temperature. You could consider a temperature tower to really see the difference in temps and find the one best for you

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504

[phildon]

Thanks for you answer.

I've already thought about increasing the Travel Speed, but which is the correct Setting to Change, "X/Y Axis Movement Speed" under the "Layer" Tab or "Travel Acceleration" under the "Advanced" Tab?

[phildon]

Nobody knows?

Btw which 0.2mm nozzle can you recommend? The only official 0.2mm Nozzle from Raise3D is the V3H Nozzle https://www.raise3d.eu/collections/acce ... 0-8-1-0-mm

What do you think about the 3D Solex Matchless 0.25mm nozzle https://www.3djake.de/3d-solex/raise3d-matchless-duese ?

[EldRick]

"I've already thought about increasing the Travel Speed, but which is the correct Setting to Change, "X/Y Axis Movement Speed" under the "Layer" Tab or "Travel Acceleration" under the "Advanced" Tab?"
X/Y Movement Speed

[Russ406]

Sorry Phil I forgot to check back

It should be x/y movement speed. I'd suggest using at least .150 mm/s

Unfortunately it looks like you're correct they only offer the hardened nozzle in .2 I have these in .4mm and they work fine. I can't suggest any alternative that I'm certain fits either but brass nozzles are fairly cheap so you could buy one from another source and try or maybe reach out to raise see if they would help you. From pictures, the ultimaker ones look closely similar. Or just splurge on the hardened one, which will last you a long time.

[ocelot27]

I would also try oven drying your filament - even very small amounts water can cause ooze - I oven dry everything the night before I use it - even when it's stored air tight with tons of desiccant. Or I just leave certain filaments in the dryer all the time at 60°. And just because it's brand new and shrink wrapped with desiccant doesn't mean it's dry - I have yet to receive "bone dry" filament from any manufacturer. One way to test is extrude a length and do a retraction - there should be no ooze if the filament is dry - if there is continuous ooze after the retraction there is water there until proven otherwise....
-john

[Noren]

I would say that you shouldn't really base your printers performance on that model. It has really small and thin parts and details. If you do want to try to get better results. Check that you have thin wall detection on. Print a little colder than usually. Print slow. Activate Z-hop.

[Northrup]

Noren, when you activate Z-hop, how much mm should I start with? .10mm Is this on the Extruder page for Z-Hop retraction?

I would say that you shouldn't really base your printers performance on that model. It has really small and thin parts and details. If you do want to try to get better results. Check that you have thin wall detection on. Print a little colder than usually. Print slow. Activate Z-hop.

Cheers,
Jim