Screw Size for Heated Bed

haylcron
Posts: 21
Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2016 2:30 pm

Screw Size for Heated Bed

Postby haylcron » Thu May 09, 2019 2:59 am

Does anyone happen to know the exact screw that mounts the heating element to the aluminum frame? It's the silver one between the black adjustment screws. I believe it's an M4, but I don't know the length or the thread pitch(?). Thanks in advance.

Jetguy
Posts: 3085
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:40 am
Location: In a van, down by the river

Re: Screw Size for Heated Bed

Postby Jetguy » Thu May 09, 2019 1:49 pm

First screws in this printer (and 99.999% of all 3D printers in general)-are 2 basic sizes.
M3 0.5mm pitch
M4 0.7mm pitch

M3 0.5mm pitch by 20mm - just checked on my N2 Plus. You might even use 25mm length, just to give you an easier job of installing and ensuring there is extra adjustment room. The additional length would never hit the bottom of the printer because of the ball nuts and it's attachment screws would hit first. That's why completely alternate methods of bed leveling using springs and even longer screws and thumb nuts was something a lot of early users did. Just one example, but there are more than this floating around https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1409412

Best bet is to buy yourself a screw kit in this hobby. This kit would give you nice new stainless countersunk head style screws from 20-40mm length for $10
https://www.amazon.com/iExcell-Stainles ... B07DDG19KG
81scbTSzO3L._SL1500_.jpg


Alternate kit for shorter lengths and includes M4s and M3s for $15
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-510pcs- ... B073SVMX3T

Examples are:
All the screws holding the clear panels and much of the entire frame are all M4- various lengths and head styles, but all M4.

Much of the smaller components are all attached with M3- motors, fans, limit switches, much of the extruder, the electronics PCBs, all M3, in dozens of lengths and head shapes. This includes the M3 setscrews used in the flex couplers, every pulley, in the hotends to hold the thermocouple and heater rods. All M3 by 0.5mm pitch.
Last edited by Jetguy on Thu May 09, 2019 4:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Jetguy
Posts: 3085
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:40 am
Location: In a van, down by the river

Re: Screw Size for Heated Bed

Postby Jetguy » Thu May 09, 2019 1:54 pm

Amazon has hundreds of kits just like those, for black oxide finish and also he various head styles and lengths.
Also, Lowes, Homes Depot, and Ace Hardware stores are getting better at carrying M3 and M4 metric screws, although you pay for the local access- you might choke at what you pay for a handful of screws, when you need them on a Saturday- at least you can get them.

The other popular location is radio controlled hobby stores- as again, M3 and M4 are extremely common screws of all common lengths and head sizes. Again, you'll pay dearly here too, but when you need one, you need one.

Jetguy
Posts: 3085
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:40 am
Location: In a van, down by the river

Re: Screw Size for Heated Bed

Postby Jetguy » Thu May 09, 2019 2:33 pm

And, invest in some solid tools. Yes, the printer came with a kit and it works, but there are better tools out there long term.
First I highly recommend these ball drivers will save your hands and your sanity in this hobby
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10686-1- ... B0006O4AD8

Next, and darn near required for the task you are asking about with the bed- the nut driver of choice (my personal favorite due to it's depth it allows the shank of the screw to enter vs other brands and models) https://www.amazon.com/Makerbeam-hex-ke ... B06XJ4FV64
Again, the specific reason is for something like this bed adjustment, you may want and need a situation where a nut screws down quite far on a long thread M3 capscrew. Other nut drivers bottom out, where this one allows a huge depth before bottoming out.

That said, do not use ball end drivers to initially break free a tight screw!! Always, always, always, use a square cut good hardened hex key when breaking free torque on any screw and especially the hotend setscrews. Ball nose drivers have less contact area and will strip screws faster than you can blink- as will cheap improperly hardened drivers. The most common mistake is for folks to use the ball end and then strip out the head of the screw in question- especially the smaller set screws.

Again, investing in good high quality hardened square cut hex drivers will save you screws and frustration.
This is a set of good square cut end drivers
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Metric- ... B000BQ4XQU


Again, the example I see over and over, let's say a user is working on the typical N series hotend. They use the long ball end driver of the "L" shaped supplied hex keys. Almost guaranteed that is the combo to strip a screw on this printer. You first have to take the time and effort to use the shorter square cut end of the hex key to break the torque, then and only then can you use the ball end.

haylcron
Posts: 21
Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2016 2:30 pm

Re: Screw Size for Heated Bed

Postby haylcron » Fri May 10, 2019 2:54 am

Thanks everyone for the fantastic replies!

haylcron
Posts: 21
Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2016 2:30 pm

Re: Screw Size for Heated Bed

Postby haylcron » Fri May 10, 2019 3:02 am

Jetguy wrote:First screws in this printer (and 99.999% of all 3D printers in general)-are 2 basic sizes.
M3 0.5mm pitch
M4 0.7mm pitch

M3 0.5mm pitch by 20mm - just checked on my N2 Plus. You might even use 25mm length, just to give you an easier job of installing and ensuring there is extra adjustment room. The additional length would never hit the bottom of the printer because of the ball nuts and it's attachment screws would hit first. That's why completely alternate methods of bed leveling using springs and even longer screws and thumb nuts was something a lot of early users did. Just one example, but there are more than this floating around https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1409412

Best bet is to buy yourself a screw kit in this hobby. This kit would give you nice new stainless countersunk head style screws from 20-40mm length for $10
https://www.amazon.com/iExcell-Stainles ... B07DDG19KG
81scbTSzO3L._SL1500_.jpg


Alternate kit for shorter lengths and includes M4s and M3s for $15
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-510pcs- ... B073SVMX3T

Examples are:
All the screws holding the clear panels and much of the entire frame are all M4- various lengths and head styles, but all M4.

Much of the smaller components are all attached with M3- motors, fans, limit switches, much of the extruder, the electronics PCBs, all M3, in dozens of lengths and head shapes. This includes the M3 setscrews used in the flex couplers, every pulley, in the hotends to hold the thermocouple and heater rods. All M3 by 0.5mm pitch.


Thanks so much for this! I just placed an order for a similar set.


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