Official Raise3D Community

Just curious if anyone has had an issue where it appears your way under extruding to the point its not even extruding at all. I've found when I go to unload and load filament that the bondtech motors are turning super slow. So far the resolve for me has been go in and change estep from 432 to someth...

btw is that a push pull fan configuration on your cooling duct? Yes it is. I printed it with Peek for higher temps but since I had the loose head never used it. My initial plan was to cut a piece of Thermo-Tec barrier or ZircoFlex to divert the heat that I've used for some race engine applications....

Do any of your adapter blocks seem excessively loose thread wise. I purchased 2 of these adapter blocks, 2 titanium e3d breaks and 2 copper e3d blocks. Between the copper block and the titanium break its super solid and tight but between the adapter block and the titanium break its loose. Anyway som...

Actually no, there is zero current. That's the thing to understand, resistance affects current, not voltage. A 1 meg resistor to a voltage, is still the exact same voltage at both sides. The ADC inputs of the mega2560 processor at the mainboard are extremely high impedance. Basically you are chargi...

Look, I know that you think you are doing the right thing, using a meter to calibrate, but put the meter down, and worry about other things. You are talking 7C here. you can swear all day what you measured, a thermocouple is accurate to +-3C. So if one read high and one read low, one was internal i...

So i recently did this upgrade with titanium heatbreak and E3D copper block on both heads. I purchased all other parts through Filastruder including 2 new Type K Thermocouple cartridges. I assumed I'd have to do some form of calibration so I thought i'd check with a known good temp tool. I have Fiel...

Hey, also, I missed this but it's good question. The price between the N2 Dual and the Pro2 is roughly $1k ($2999 VS $3999) The difference on the N2 Plus VS Pro2 Plus is more like $3899 VS $5999 a difference of $2.1k For a buyer at this exact second, the Pro2 makes sense, in fact a good deal. The P...

I hope raise3d will sell the print heads and the new bed. I tried buying some dglass3d auto raise heads but they said they no longer mfg the 1.75 sized unit nor had any left even in just parts. I've been thinking about doing the mod someone on here did for as an overkill bed upgrade. I've tried sev...

I hope raise3d will sell the print heads and the new bed. I tried buying some dglass3d auto raise heads but they said they no longer mfg the 1.75 sized unit nor had any left even in just parts. I've been thinking about doing the mod someone on here did for as an overkill bed upgrade. I've tried seve...

Thanks for the link. I'm looking into Tungsten rods as they have a Modulus of 400.

The recommendation isn't based upon the printer manufacturers. Its to do with different types of material can absorb moisture and it negatively affects print quality. PLA support material is really bad about absorbing moisture. From what I've read its recommended to buy PLA in small batches as well....

I had no issues with the stock Buildtak but just installed some Geckotek EZ-Stik Hot. Both stick very good only difference I noticed so far is it seems the pieces release easier off the Geckotek. I haven't printed a tall piece on the Geckotek to test if the part would break loose before completion. ...

I was wanting to use Maraging Steel which has a different components than mild steel. So to clarify are you saying that still won't make a difference and the rod will deflect the same? To go extreme since the size is the same it would deflect the exact same between Aluminum and Titanium if we applie...

Can someone at Raise3D specify what type of steel was used for the rods. I'm exhibiting excessive play in the carriage assembly as well. I do have the cast vs cnc carriage assembly. Do you guys offer the cad file for the newer CNC carriage? Only reason I ask is I purchased 2 of the auto lift Hotends...

I'm curious if you have cracks after printing. On an article I read it stated that if you can't heat the bed up to 130C your parts are likely going to crack. The Raise3D was one of the tested printers. I just ordered a sheet of build surface from Geckotek. We will see how it works vs Buildtak. I was...

Awesome mod. I'm wanting to print polycarbonate and seems you want at least 130C to do that. Maybe I'm blind and I didn't see it but whats the max stable bed temp you can hit with this. I was looking at bed heaters from Keenovo as they seem pretty powerful beds and they seem to have a well diversifi...

If anyone's interested I did a check and it only eats up 3/16" of print volume. Only reason I'm interested is in all the research I did for buying a printer the main reason I got this one was build volume. From all the reviews I've watched on youtube there's been alot of complaints about print ...

I was actually looking at those. Jetguy why would it requiring additional wiring? Then it has a heating element, thermocoupler and a fan unless I'm mistaken so does the Raise3d. They are mechanical actuated threw the retraction of the filament. To be honest I've been traveling and haven't had a chan...

Is part of the QOS to drop network connections all together when its either printing or running a code process? I've found anything over 10mb its pretty much useless to try and use the network. Are you implying WIFI is the favored Network mode on this unit or is the 1mb speeds the same on hardwire a...

I know this is an older post but I just purchased a Raise3d N2 plus 3d printer. I've read through several of the forum topics. I had thought about doing the driver mod but a statement that jetguy made about it only being an 8 bit AVR anyway got me wondering. Would some of us that like customizing th...