Official Raise3D Community

Vicky, thank you so much for answering

What about an option on touchscreen, you can define a value for bed to lower to after print? If the value is smaller than the last Z position, then it won't move. If not, the bed will drop to the defined value. Sounds good !! I myself modified the End-Code after printing the second part on the bran...

Hi folks, i have to ask if somebody knows if the big black Alumnium block which carries the whole assembly is hollow or not. I remember a thread here where someone from R3D stated version 1 of this part has been casted, but V2 is fully CNC machined. Casted is clear, my guess for V2 would be, it's no...

In addition to the conversation, i monitored the power consumption of the machine last night. The HBP seems to have an ED between 40 and 50 percent at 110C. Meaning, if the HBP is heated up to target temp, it shut's off more than half of the print time. So, HBP element power shouldn't be a factor in...

Use the nose of waterpump pliers to hold the heating block at the front while unscrewing the nozzle with a fitting socket. The Nose might not bite much on the block, but it's enough to hold it place and not break anything alse than the withstanding powers of the thread. I saw a printed tool on thing...

"I get a good ABS print with my bed temp set to 105C. Does it matter that the surface may actually be 100C?" What matters is if you set it to 100C, thinking that you will get 100C at the surface, and instead get much lower temps, which will ruin adhesion. You're right, actual values don't...

Thank you for getting in here. I read your posting and it was somewhat a reason for me to get into this deeper. My PA12 gives me a hard time in regard of adhesion, and i wanted to get some data to see what's really going on. Using these thermal pads might be good idea in regard of keeping the bed ni...

I have to chime in on the issue. The temparaures i measured on my N1 HBp are 8 to 10 degress Celsius lower than the setting. I got around 100 C on the bare plate, with one high spot with 102. I snapped pics with my Testo FLIR camera with different plates on top of it and heat loss makes things even ...

Oh, so far, so good. I didn't realize they had one in the Power Socket.

A blown fuse can be just that, ONE blown fuse. The fuse wire might have been a bit underrated or a bit on the low side. If that comes more often, you should go after this.

don't mind, i could have looked it up to begin with ... Print out a cube (20mmx20mm would be nice) in vase mode (single outline, no infill, no top or bottom layers) set your extrusion multiplier to 1 set your extrusion width to equal the width of your nozzle. Measure the walls with a caliper in seve...

Great, i personally had this happen on an other printer with lots of urgent things to print. Since then i always have a spare unit at hand, they're pretty cheap and with a little luck, you may get one with a not so cheap fan inside the PSU(equals to less constant noise), or, even a unit with a tempe...

.... using calipers, measure each side and write down the results. you may want to not measure the bottom layers though. add the 8 numbers you measured and divide by 8 to get the average. ... I'm sorry, but i don't understand which eight results i should compute to get the average. Could you please...

Well, it's not that hard, if power is at the wall outlet, there could be the main switch kaputt or the meanwell power supply unit inside the printer would be my frist two stops. I don't know where the electronics on a N2 are to be found, but it seem to remember there's a cabinett near the spool hold...

If you're overextruding, the "round corners" will be overexposed. I.e. in the middle of a three shell body, the overextrusion of the inner shell will go both ways, towards inside and the outside of the part, the inner shell will overextrude inwards and make a designed hole smaller than it ...

Just in case, did you measure and enter the correct filament diameter in the filament settings ?

That's a major factor, because of it's square function. Every tenth you're off accounts for a serious miscalculation in the software and is a root cause for over- as well as underextrusion.

Sniper1982 wrote:I use a something similar System like AJM, called Fritzdect200. Controlled via WLAN and Router.
In Standby mode my N2 Needs 33 Watt. After 20 min under 35 Watt Printer shut automatically down.

That's a neat idea for those Fritzbox Users, just ordered one

what zemlin wrote, plus, to me, it looks like a bit of over-extrusion. Turn down the extrusion value by one or two percent and be a happy camper. If you want to have the sharpest corners possible on these machines, you'd print it it that the sharp corners are produced at the z-axis. In other words, ...

Sorry, don't know what exact size my cable chain is, it's from IGUS and 28mm high on the outside, by 14,15 mm or so. I had it lying around for future use with my CNC-Mill. It just takes the ribbon wire in a vertical fit. Two extra mm wouldn't be wrong, the wire isn't perfect sitting, a small bit kin...

i just installed my bondtech, black friday discount :), the single red wire on the idc ribbon cable should point towards heater outputs. look very carefully on the extruder board, you can see the outline of rectangular box in white with a indication of where the corresponding keyed notch should be....

I've got that sorted out with the help from Martin Bondeus, many many thanks for that.


In case somebody makes the same rookie mistake, the red wire belongs to towards the heater connectors, that would be the low end when mounted on a BondTech DualDirect Drive Extruder