Official Raise3D Community

heater/thermocouple instructions: https://s2.raise3d.com/public/media/201 ... uction.pdf

Ran the first set of parts last night. Air flow from both fans feels good. Made a couple of minor design changes and the second set is printing now. Should be able to put the machine together tonight or tomorrow and I have three multi-day prints to run right off the bat - so if I've created any issu...

I've always wanted to add controllable cooling fans to my N2 and N2 Plus printers, but never got around to designing anything until today. This is just the first pass, and I haven't made or tested anything yet - but I hope to have parts for this weekend. Have some clear eSun PC for the job. All the ...

STP and IGES

Need to replace gantry bearings and rods on my N2 + after over 3500 hours of trouble-free printing. I ordered the wrong bearings - didn't get the long LM8 bearings - the proper bearing is LM8LUU. So having the head apart and waiting on the correct bearings, I had the opportunity to model up the bits...

How 'bout if you swap X and Y motor cables on the controller board. It could be a wiring issue. You won't want to let an axis plow into the limit switch, but you could start a home from the middle of the bed and quickly kill power when things start moving. If you swap cables and Y doesn't move while...

I've used PLA and PC with a .2mm nozzle.
Have you tried raising the temperature on your ABS?

IMHO, .45 layer is too thick for a .8 nozzle. Since support separation is controllable only by the number of layers of separation, you need to tweak your layer thickness to optimize your support. If your layer thickness is too great, the first layer on support is too far away from the support and pr...

When figuring out a new filament or process I often print out a bunch of little test parts, each one printed at a different temperature so I can see which one has the best appearance, layer strength, or whatever it is I'm looking for at the time. The problem is that once the parts are off the plate ...

FWIW, I often print parts with through holes for reinforcement rods. I use steel. I'll leave a straight hole in a part - for small holes I will ream them to size before driving in the rods. Larger holes I can generally use as-printed if I'm careful about the ID. I'll put a small helix in the hole, o...

Looks like the extrusion width is spot on. I'd still suggest increasing the flow rate a bit. That will get you a fatter bead without increasing the shell spacing. Should result in better bonding on the sides of the shells.

Been giving this some thought myself. I plan to mount the thermocouple board on the print head so I don' t need to run thermocouple wire through the machine. Also going to look at the chips on the Raise board that's up there already. If it's the same chips as the Duet board, maybe it would work for ...

The overlap percentage only impacts thin walls where shells are being squeezed down in an effort to maintain the geometry. I don't use IdeaMaker, so I could be wrong here, but it looks like you need to go to the ADVANCE tab and check the Override Filament Setting box to increase flow rate overall. I...

I generally use no cooling on ABS. I've seen this on PETG prints, but don't think I've ever had perimeters separate on ABS. Also, you should look at your flow or extrusion coefficient values to make sure you're getting the extrusion width you're asking for.

I can't say for sure that you're running too fast, but a 1mm nozzle is pushing more than 6x the plastic going through the factory .4mm nozzle. That a big demand on the hot end and I think you run the risk of extruding plastic that hasn't hit the set point. As I mentioned earlier, I ran a 1mm nozzle ...

I'd suggest an extrusion width of 1.2 or so. Z-Hop of one layer thickness should be adequate unless the part is warping.

What's your layer height and extrusion width?

I don't use Ideamaker so I'm not familiar with their terms. Judging by your screenshot it is probably the number of shells? Basically how many outer layers are printed. I'd go at least two, if not three.

The last parts I ran with a 1mm nozzle were in PLA and I ran them at 33mm/sec. I didn't arrive at that speed though anything scientific - just figured pushing too much plastic through the hot end could be problematic - and even at that speed it was a pretty rapid build. I used a .4mm layer thickness.

Did the board fit in the existing electronics box, or did you need to make a new enclosure for it? Also, I saw on the other 32 bit thread that you needed the thermocouple daughter-board for the hot-end temperature sensor. Does the bed temp sensor tie to the board directly - so only one daughter-boar...