Official Raise3D Community

ABS's tendency to warp is what's killing you here. The spiral arms are pulling up so they are taller. They spring down a bit when the nozzle is laying down new material but pull back up as soon as the head has moved on. Z-Hop will help here. It can increase stringing though. Since warp is the issue,...

fwiw, I do this sort of thing all the time with S3D using multiple processes and either printing separate parts with each process or printing vertical zones in a tower with different settings. No g-code editing required.

I have a few bags of these - they've worked fine. They are shorter than the Raise nozzles, but otherwise they fit/work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XH ... UTF8&psc=1

If your raft is hard to remove, increase the separation distance between the raft and your first layer. In IdeaMaker it is "Raft Gap from Model". Adjust the value and print a small test part to check the setting - keep at it until you get the results you want before running a big print. Yo...

Do you need to clean up the heating blocks and nozzles before fitting the socks? Mine have had some close encounters with failed prints, but I wouldn't say the build up is excessive. Probably not critical as I would not expect the silicone to adhere to the plastic residue, but it should be pretty e...

Sounds like it might be worth investing in a UPS for your setup so restarting is not required except in the case of a lengthy outage.

Was wondering that myself.

EldRick wrote:In my experience Buildtak isn't worth a darn for ABS

My go-to surface for ABS and PETG is PEI.

All ABS filaments are not created equal. I've had good luck with Hatchbox. My current go-to is eSun ABS+. I never got good results on larger parts with eSun ABS. I have tried other ABS filaments and had warp issues. What bed temp are you running - and do you have the fan covers installed, doors clos...

PETG temps depend on the brand and color - I print small vase-mode test parts at different temps to find the best layer-bonding strength. Usually lands between 240C and 270C.

Check your separation layers. For disolvable support you should have separation at zero.

Without knowing where you are starting from, higher or lower doesn't mean anything.
With overhang, layer thickness vs extrusion width is a significant factor.

Hard to provide any sort of advise without knowing your current print parameters. I don't have the factory settings memorized and have never tried printing with them. Nozzle size, extrusion width, layer thickness, temperatures, speeds, etc ... Assuming you are using the .4mm diameter nozzle, I would...

Do you have suggestions for a design improvement, or are you just venting?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Plun ... /100609334
It's not great, but it's good enough.

hardbc wrote:Can you please tell me what have you used for cutting the plexiglass?

Thanks a lot!

I'm using a 2-flute 1/8" diameter endmill with an 1/8" shank to fit into the Dremel.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#8876a13/=1e4yl4i

The ball nuts are not bolted tight to the print bed. The bolts are loose to prevent any binding that might occur due to minor misalignment of the linear motion bearings, rods, and the ball screws. The combination of the loose bolts and play in the holes means that the ball nuts are free to rotate se...

DrExcess wrote:Wow thanks for these.

Glad they worked out well for you.

Thanks, but I'll be back in the US on Wednesday. I'll just place the order then. It's nothing I need in a hurry.

I live in the US and am currently traveling in Asia. I was going to pre-order some boots and a couple other parts. The web site keeps throwing me over to the .asia site where I don't have an account. I have tried 4 different web browsers and all behave the same. As soon as I click on the https://www...