Official Raise3D Community

Are you talking about a house-zap, or a static shock? If static, that tubing is not conductive so grounding won't accomplish anything - those electrons won't go anywhere in a material that doesn't conduct.

If it's a house-current zap, you have other, more serious issues.

I've been using my N2+ which has the Dual Direct Bondtech and an N2 at the day job which has the stock extruder. I haven't seen mention of the surface finish improvement from the Bondtech - here's what I've seen: I ran the same g-code file on both printers with the same material (Hatchbox black ABS)...

I use 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 12" squares from Amazon to stick my PEI to the build plate. I use an aluminum plate, but the glass should work fine. I use a 3M 71601 Blue Plastic Squeegee to help lay the adhesive down. These also work great for applying Kapton to glass. Getting the sheet...

I've searched the forums for the actual thickness of the OEM glass plate. Some say 1/8" on the forums which is 3.175 mm. I haven't removed my buildtak yet to get the thickness. Does anyone know the exact thickness of the OEM glass plate? I have 3 plates from Raise with exposed edges. I measure...

{REPLACE "; outer perimeter\n" "; outer perimeter\nM204 P400\n"} {REPLACE "; inner perimeter\n" "; inner perimeter\nM204 P1000\n"} {REPLACE "; solid layer\n" "; solid layer\nM204 P1000\n"} {REPLACE "; infill\n" "; infill\nM2...

Or do I have to calibrate the values? And if so how? It's not the sort of thing that has one right answer. Speed, acceleration, and jerk have a big impact on build times, part quality and appearance. You need to find the balance point for your prints and what's most important to you. For me it's be...

I generally run 60mm/s overall. 30mm/s for outer perimeters and solid infill. 1600 mm/s^2 X & Y accel 12 XY Jerk 5000 mm/s^2 extruder accel 5000 Extruder jerk. I get a little ringing, but overall parts look pretty darn good with these settings. I have this in my start script M201 X1600 Y1600 E50...

FWIW, you should have the doors open and lid off when printing PLA.

Vicky@Raise3D wrote:May I have more details about the Network Drive you are using?
NAS or Remote Computer or some other type?

It's the company server. If I check the properties of the mapped drive It shows as

Projects (\\Server) (V:)
DATA2
Network Drive
NTFS

Security on the drive:

Bed clips in the build area is a pretty common practice on desktop 3D printers.
I need to run a modified firmware to reach the limits of the build surface since I've extended the Y-axis travel, but with that I have printed a 12" circle.

When I use the screen to move the head around I don't even get 300 mm in the y axis before it bumps the back.. And If i have to use the origin as beginning the nozzle will also hit the front clips if I want to use those (less than) 300 mm. I don't get it, am I missing something here? I thought the ...

I have not tried printing PETG on the Buildtak. I use a PEI build surface for PETG. I have also used Kapton film with good results. I run my build platform at 80C. Nozzle temp settings vary with the brand/color of filament I am running. I print vase-mode cubes at different temperatures to find the p...

Looks more like an overlay issue with the model vs platform background - that the perspective between the build platform and the part isn't quite right - which would just be an issue with the preview generation. the cones appear to be vertical, which i'm guessing they should be.

PETG won't tolerate any over-extrusion. I print a vase-mode cube to calibrate my extrusion multiplier, and deduct 5% from the nominal. I don't use any z-hop and I have travels "avoid crossing outline" (S3D). I'm guessing the Ideamaker equivalent is "Avoid Traveling Through Holes"...

I purchased my first Raise3D printer at the end of October - that was an N2+. I just received my second machine, an N2. Thought I'd share what I noticed while unpacking the machine - the differences between the two machines. The first thing I noticed is that the limit switches on the X, Y, and Z axe...

The factory setscrews for the throat are brass. Real easy to round out the socket. I replaced the throat setscrews with these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#94085a091/ Brass tip so they won't damage the threads - steel body so they'll survive a wrench - plus a bit of high-temp anti-seize just to be sure...

On top of all the above comments, have patience. I've been at this for 2 years now and I'm still getting better with every step. It's not a plug-n-play process, and it will take time for you to figure out what works best for you. Also, regarding speed - everything is a trade-off. I sometimes print f...

Have mapped network drives here. I was going to put all my N2 stuff on the network so others can access it. IdeaMaker won't open up mapped drives. Anyone else see this?

This might fit the bill. I have some silver material that would probably look good. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1535483

Thanks for the ideas - keep 'em coming!