Official Raise3D Community

I've been using this one for a couple years without any issue.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2904055

Thank you Vicky. I look forward to it.

Printing model with support generated with high Overhang value will be very hard to print out well. You can consider either print with lower Overhang value and normal Support or add pillars manually to where is lacking of support with Auto-Create Manual Support. We will keep on optimizing support g...

I can get that result as well. And for this particular model it would be ok to have that much support structure to remove post-print. The issue that I have has more to do with the software missing obvious support points when trying to minimize support structures to no more than necessary. There is n...

The file is too large to attach, but you can get it here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=16r0vl ... tejU-enHqO

Have you tried enabling the Support under Slice but not generating Manual Support in Main interface? Is there any difference? Yes I have. That is what is shown in the first "Print Preview" image I shared. Slicer supports only with no Manual Supports created. The second image is what the M...

Vicky@Raise3D wrote:We have already built support in ideaMaker for 3D mouse will release in next version.
If you have any interest to test beta version for us, please let me know which OS are you using.

I'm interested, if you're still doing this.

Windows 10 Pro
ver. 1903

The images I provided are with the smallest possible pillar size. Changing the support type from pillar to "Normal" does not fix this issue either, nor does scaling the model up to make the features larger. While increasing the size of the model does improve the performance of the autosupp...

I've been noticing this issue for quite a while now. Ideamaker seems to be incapable of consistently automatically creating support structures in the necessary locations to properly support a print with even a moderate level of complexity. Every time I want to print something with Ideamaker that has...

PLA is more likely to warp from lack of cooling than it is from too much cooling. Generally, with PLA, I've found that the more cooling you can provide directly to the print the better it performs. What temperature are you printing at? I'm using 100% cooling at 205 C. The print I'm referring to war...

PLA is more likely to warp from lack of cooling than it is from too much cooling. Generally, with PLA, I've found that the more cooling you can provide directly to the print the better it performs.

What temperature are you printing at?

se2013 wrote:Just wondering if there is any noticeable difference in the finished print using this "Art White", as opposed to the standard PLA?

I didn't notice that much of a difference, really. I suppose it's a bit smoother, but it wasn't astounding by any means.

I assume you have good bed adhesion? I used to have an issue with the N2 where the glass build plate would sometimes slide to the left or right on large builds. I would put the clips to hold the plate in place on the front end of the bed so nothing was securing it in the 'X' direction. I made some r...

We have already added it into our developing plan but we don't really have a lot experience with it from software developing side. It will take us some time to achieve. So, after nearly a year of developing, is there an update you can share on when or whether this functionality will ever be added t...

wo4sunhao wrote:So do you have the similar issue before?

The most common cause of layer separation is that your print temperature is too low. But it's hard to say for sure since I have no idea what material you are using or what your print settings are.

It's going to be difficult for anyone to give you advice on this if you don't include details like the material you're using, the temperature and speed settings, whether you are using layer cooling, nozzle size, etc...

No problem.

If you can add additional active cooling to the part itself as it prints with another fan or something, you might find the quality improved even more.

As far as bed adhesion with PLA, the best thing I've found is Magigoo. You can get it from Matterhackers. The stuff is heat activated and works a million times better than glue for PLA and ABS. You just have to wait for the glass to actually cool down after the print is complete and the print pops r...

The 5mm to 8mm couplers found at ServoCity are the exact same part that is used on the Raise3D printers.

https://www.servocity.com/flexible-clam ... t-couplers

I bought 4 of them to keep on hand as spares for when the I have to swap out the stock couplers on my N2.