Official Raise3D Community

wo4sunhao wrote:So do you have the similar issue before?

The most common cause of layer separation is that your print temperature is too low. But it's hard to say for sure since I have no idea what material you are using or what your print settings are.

It's going to be difficult for anyone to give you advice on this if you don't include details like the material you're using, the temperature and speed settings, whether you are using layer cooling, nozzle size, etc...

No problem.

If you can add additional active cooling to the part itself as it prints with another fan or something, you might find the quality improved even more.

As far as bed adhesion with PLA, the best thing I've found is Magigoo. You can get it from Matterhackers. The stuff is heat activated and works a million times better than glue for PLA and ABS. You just have to wait for the glass to actually cool down after the print is complete and the print pops r...

The 5mm to 8mm couplers found at ServoCity are the exact same part that is used on the Raise3D printers.

https://www.servocity.com/flexible-clam ... t-couplers

I bought 4 of them to keep on hand as spares for when the I have to swap out the stock couplers on my N2.

Are you sure that's not just thermal paste?

The absolute best thing I've found for PLA and ABS bed adhesion is Magigoo. This stuff is amazing. I think you can get it from MatterHackers.

This is a chronic problem I run into with IdeaMaker as well. It would be very nice if a perimeter, or internal shell, were formed to support top level solid infills on prints with lower percentage infills.

Yeah, I considered that. I might end up going that route, too, but I was hoping to avoid the wiring nightmare that that approach would involve. There has to be a way to modify the firmware such that two pins are enabled instead of just one when the g-code controlled fan turns on, right?

Can you modify your slicer to output an additional code to turn on the second fan at the same time? I use simplify3d and it's under firmware settings. I don't think so. I'm fairly certain IdeaMaker doesn't have that setting, and I can't seem to find it in Cura either. I've poked around in the Marli...

I have a question that I'm hoping someone can help me with. I have been running the 24V Berd Air cooling system with my N2 for a while now and it works great. However, I've found that I sometimes need to supplement it with an additional cooling fan to avoid some issues on overhangs and the like. I'v...

We haven't sold any filament with that package by now. And with the package, I cannot figure out which filament it is either. Vicky, I just received this exact same package YESTERDAY from Raise3d. See my above comment. It was the "Art White" PLA filament. The other two rolls of filament I...

Yeah, I was really surprised when I got it today and found it in an unmarked generic box. Pretty poor product presentation, especially considering the pricepoint for PLA and the fancy nice red boxes R3D's other filaments come in. I can only assume that it's another company's filament that Raise3D bo...

That looks EXACTLY like the spool of "R3D Premium PLA Filament - Art White (Extreme Smooth Surface Quality)" that I just received today. I mean, identical in every way.

I have noticed the same problem both on the raft and solid fill surfaces. The nozzle will drag right across the surface regardless of the settings I am using. Is there a way that we can ensure that ALL non-extruding travel executes a retraction and z-hop?

Dense layers may help. What is your setting for "Vertical Offset Top Layers" under Support? You might also try reducing that to 1 or 0 if dense support layers don't help. It might make the supports harder to remove, though (thereby resulting in slightly grosser surface finish).

I do a good amount of printing with PC-Max and get good results with it. That being said, however, I only ever do single nozzle printing. I long ago gave up on dual nozzle prints and removed the second nozzle and extruder from my machine entirely. I've found that with the right settings I can get a ...

When you go to create the stl file in Solidworks, click on "Options" in the Save As dialog. Then you can adjust the resolution. "Deviation" should be the variable you are looking for.

The time it takes to preheat the bed and nozzle is always going to vary depending on ambient conditions and such, so why even bother including it in the time counter at all? I think the timer should only include actual printing time.