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Just cut the filament a cm above the printhead, then follow the old filament into the printhead with the new one, while the print continues. No interruptions, no pausing, no failures from this in years on many long prints. Pause and reload is an unreliable loser.

Remove any parts you can, eat up the both nozzles for a while until the glob gets gummy, and you may be able to pull most of it off in one piece.
The plastic is probably not sticking to the head much, just surrounding it. I had a similar problem and the plastic came off clean after reheating it.

Discontinued. Out of stock.

Put the buildplate with print in the freezer for a while. The print will usually come loose or pop off.

A LOT of people would like Raise3D to update Marlin for their printers. They have been ignoring the requests for a long time, which shows a remarkably poor level of support for their products.

Yes, you can print without it. The only minor risk is that some plastic may stick to the nozzle while printing.

Start by tightening the screw in each of the small holes. If any of them are at all loose, that's probably the source of the problem - a poor connection that heated up.
If tightening the screws fixes the issue temporarily, replace the whole terminal block anyway. Most hardware stores will have them.

I concur - having to walk into the printer room for the button-presses is a PIA.

It would appear that no-one knows what you are referring to.

There is really no reason to buy filament from your printer company, as they are just selling relabeled filament made by someone else.

Perhaps you could try ordering a different brand of filament or from a different vendor? Try Amazon - it's much less painful…

ABS has both flexibility and strength, and is generally easier to print than nylon.

Adaptive Layer Height can make the layers look like roughly the same width, but any near-horizontal surface is going to show the edges of the layers.

Now, could we please get an update to a current version of Marlin to run the actual printer?

Will the update include an update to a remotely current version of Marlin for the N-series? It is currently about three years out of date.

Try putting the plate with print in the freezer for a while. The part will shrink, and may even just pop off.

I haven't tried printing it, but I'd bet that it won't stick to any bed material or treatment.
Perhaps the perforated circuit-board bed used on some printers might create enough mechanical attachment to hold a piece in place?

I believe the problem is that the display controller feeds Marlin up to ten GCODE commands in advance, so any codes inserted would be delayed beyond usefulness.

Raise3D has been "working on" sequential printing for at least the last two years.
Don't hold your breath waiting, instead, try a fully-functional slicer, such as Cura or Slic3r.

"I've already thought about increasing the Travel Speed, but which is the correct Setting to Change, "X/Y Axis Movement Speed" under the "Layer" Tab or "Travel Acceleration" under the "Advanced" Tab?"
X/Y Movement Speed