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Try putting the plate with print in the freezer for a while. The part will shrink, and may even just pop off.

I haven't tried printing it, but I'd bet that it won't stick to any bed material or treatment.
Perhaps the perforated circuit-board bed used on some printers might create enough mechanical attachment to hold a piece in place?

I believe the problem is that the display controller feeds Marlin up to ten GCODE commands in advance, so any codes inserted would be delayed beyond usefulness.

Raise3D has been "working on" sequential printing for at least the last two years.
Don't hold your breath waiting, instead, try a fully-functional slicer, such as Cura or Slic3r.

"I've already thought about increasing the Travel Speed, but which is the correct Setting to Change, "X/Y Axis Movement Speed" under the "Layer" Tab or "Travel Acceleration" under the "Advanced" Tab?"
X/Y Movement Speed

A raft is just a crutch for sloppy practice and poorly designed bed material.
Flip the build plate over so glass side is up, use the glue stick that came with the printer, and adjust the first layer height so you can see the extrusion being pushed onto the build plate.

Cura.

Or just clip the filament just before the first extruder, and then follow it into the extruder with the second filament until it starts pulling in the second filament.

You could add a $50 Retail USB-to-wi-fi adapter, which should add increased bandwidth and resolution and allow one to view the camera from most computers or phones without any use of the printer's processor at all. Viewing a camera on the printer display is senseless, and most people would prefer to...

Raise3D appears to have become a one-hit wonder, and with no spare parts to keep the one hit running.

My experience is on an N2.

"In my experience you can't drive out rigid filament by loading flexible behind it."

In my experience that works fine.

I'm betting you need to manually adjust the printhead height. You are not squeezing the first layer onto the buildplate, so it doesn't stick. Use the adjustment screw to lower the height a quarter-turn at a time.

I'd bet you see small lumps of plastic buildup on the nozzle when this happens?

If you are asking for 150C to print ABS, you only need 110C, or perhaps I'm misreading your question?

You can also use the Utilities menu to feed the filament after heating it instead of Load.

With fiber-containing filaments you will get better results from a larger nozzle - a .6mm at least. I'm thinking that the embedded fibers are barely getting thru your .4mm.

What speed are you printing? To my un-expert eye, that looks like it could stand to be printed slower.

"Is the N2 Sold Out Because it is No Longer Being Made?"

Yes.

Does the Logitech give any better image than the low-res R3D version?

A lot of US-made ONE-kg spools don't fit in the N2.

That's a good reason not to buy a Pro, IMHO.