Official Raise3D Community

I've had that happen to me (not on my Raise3D but other times). I've been able to use a combination of a dental pick and rare earth magnets to pull out the broken ball. I generally try to never use the ball end until the screw is loose, for exactly that reason, the ball end of the allen wrench is co...

What you're calling the inside is still an "outside" as far as the slicer is concerned. To the slicer, the inside is the bit between the walls.

I had to raise my bed temp to 60C and that's made my larger prints stop warping. In my case, the aluminum bed is curved and only touches the glass at the very front and very back. So my bed needs to be at a higher temp to make the glass be at the same temp as if my aluminum bed was flat.

It looks like your printer is printing in the right spot (at least its the same as mine). If you take the orange square and shift it right by about an inch then that corresponds to the right nozzle. If the center of the plate were the center of the left nozzles printing area, then the center of the ...

walshlg wrote:Yes and even Onshape, exports stls as triangles, not curves

Absolutely, and I never claimed otherwise.

OnShape will export curves to file formats that support curves. STL isn't one of those. It's not a deficiency of the CAD program, but rather a deficiency of the file format.

Well. that isn't really true. Most CAD programs have no issues exporting curves (if the exported file format supports it). For my CNC mill, I export DXF with actual curves, and the generated gcode contains curve commands. Some CAD programs, like Rhino, when converting curves into lines, will have a ...

The issue goes back to the STL files. STL files are basically a collection of triangles, which means that any curved object will get broken down into straight line segments. The resolution of these segments will be determined by the CAD program that you used to generate the STL file with. You need t...

I'm not seeing one in the photos I took of the mainboard.

There is a big expansion connector which could probably be used to control a piezo speaker or something.

You could also add a "limit" switch to one end of the travel and have the head move to that position to trigger it.

You could write a small gcode program which does it, or you could adjust the gcode at the end of the file to do it.

It seems you can still order it.

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d- ... ent-1.75mm
http://gizmodorks.com/acetal-3d-printer-filament/

I've read that POM warps really wicked and doesn't stick to much. I love machining Delrin on my mill/lathe.

Here's a design for one: http://www.dglass3d.com/products/autolift-hot-ends/

I used to get email notifications when new posts were made. One day, in the last week or two these just stopped.

I saw these: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/V6-Sock-Kit-3-Pack

I was one of the super early bird and my fan ducts look a tiny bit different. The biggest difference is that the new ones are better for printing while laying flat. The place where the airflow is divided between the extruder and model has straight surfaces, where I believe it was curved in the origi...

I designed one in OnShape that is parametric and posted the STL on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1360118

If you're not comfortable with OnShape, I'd be happy to export an STL for you. I just need to know the hole diameter of the center of the spool and the width of the spool.

If you want a smooth top, then you probably need to print with ABS and do acetone smoothing.

If you print directly onto glass, then you can get the bottom to be glass smooth.

I love the robot arm

Did you mean BuildTak?

In which case you can use google search by using: site:forum.raise3d.com buildtak

I've also used pause (on my Bukito) to drop small rare earth magnets into a print.

In my case I used 4 small magnets that had alternating poles facing up, and then I can use a hall effect sensor to detect them going by,