Official Raise3D Community

Does it look correct in the slice preview? If so, it must be a settings/hardware issue. Insufficient cooling? Hard to tell.

Ooops, OK. I already had "avoid inside models," checked and "Bottom and top" was unchecked also. Back to square one. :) For what it's worth, I never had this problem in Ideamaker 3.2.x, so it might be worth downgrading. Finding an older version online might not be easy, though. ...

Yes, I started having this issue after updating Ideamaker to 3.3.0; this did not happen in previous versions. Here's an example of the excessive retractions: https://imgur.com/Jrv8Q29.png Most of the retractions in that photo are eliminated if I enable "Avoid retraction inside model" in Oo...

Just wanted to echo my desire to see these released for sale. I'd buy a bunch of them as soon as they were available; my own silicone sock starting to look really sad. https://imgur.com/iOQPH2K On a tangentially related note, why are the BuildTak sheets for the N2 $60 in the Raise store? I remember ...

What is the electronic driven lifting feature for? Is it to prevent the 2nd extruder from hitting the prints? Yes. How come the Pro2 and Pro2 Plus do not have single extruder version? Answered by Vicky earlier in this thread: You wrote, you are working on an improved single extruder version of the ...

As I see it, there are two primary reasons to get a Bondtch upgrade, the rest is gravy: 1. If you want to print TPU and can't get it to work with stock extruder (Ninjaflex is the hardest to print). 2. You want to slightly improve surface finish at medium and high print speed (reduce 'ringing'). If n...

Other possibilities: Your stepper drivers could be overheating. Shifting only on long prints implicates this as a possibility. You can open the electrical panel at the back of the printer and check that the blower fan is running and the stepper drivers have heatsinks. On one of my printers, the fan ...

Besides hotend insulation, model cooling can help with this. The picture doesn't show the whole hotend, but it looks like you're using the stock axial fans (dual extruder?) with the covers removed. I've found that this is not sufficient cooling for best results with PLA. A blower fan with a duct tha...

Ticket submitted, thanks.

I have two N2 printers, and one of them has an issue with the extruder temperature reading that I can't figure out. I'm looking for suggestions to help track down and fix the issue. The temp reading on both of the extruders will jump around by up to +-8 degrees. And it's not just a display error, as...

I remember seeing that mod and wondering how he did that. I have no idea. I looks like he might have the early version of the print head, so maybe the wiring was a bit different. There's a few blower fan mods that are compatible with the current print head, though. All of the ones I know of mount th...

If I recall correctly, you can actually use the Load/Unload function while the print is paused with the current version. You're right about the oozing, though, I don't think there are any provisions for dealing with ooze when the machine resumes a print. My strategy to deal with this is to pause whe...

Check the Y limit switch. I've had a situation where the switch was bent sideways, causing it to be switched on constantly. The printer may be sending the Y axis to home, but it stops immediately because the switch is pressed.

Spikeysonic wrote:What are the settigns for Polyflex? should I stick to the defualt ones and how about the Sainsmart TPU

In both cases, I use the Raise3D default settings for PolyFlex. I think I also turned the cooling fan on at layer 2.

any figures for the raft offset? please Changing the Z offset is effectively the same as changing the nozzle height. It's just a way to do it with software so you don't change your hardware, since that would also affect how other filaments print. You can try starting at +0.3mm and lowering it in 0....

With PC-Max on BuildTak, I set with my nozzle about 0.2mm above the bed at the Z home position. But again, I recommend starting your first calibration print a bit higher than that and then lowering it if it doesn't stick well enough. You can probably use a positive Z-offset in the Global tab of the ...

I meant that when it warps, the pull it exerts on the build plate can be strong enough to bend the plate if it is flexible or overcome the adhesive that keeps BuildTak or other build surfaces in place. It's not a big problem, the only cases where I've encountered that is when I printed a really big ...

talked to my friend that has been molding parts in TPU. his mold is a silicone rubber that can go up to 600F. I'm going to see if i can create a mold for the sock and use the silicone rubber. the first thing I need to do is create a model of the heater block. it looks like the heater block is the s...

They are quite different as far as mechanical properties go. I print a lot of parts with PC. My experience with nylon is more limited, as it quickly became evident during my tests that it was not what I needed for my application, but I'll try to outline what I found: PC alloys are stiff and keep the...

I prefer PolyFlex to NinjaFlex, as I found it much easier to print (stock extruder). They are both very, very durable as long as your print temperature isn't too low. Ninja is a little bit more flexible than Polyflex, but with most parts, you can achieve the desired stiffness by playing with the num...