Official Raise3D Community

Hi there, I use these start/End scripts that were posted on this forum sometime ago, the head moves off to the edge the plate, the plate drops for a few seconds, the nozzle purges and the plate returns to the home position. Starting Script: CODE: SELECT ALL ; // Set extrusion factor for head 0 to 10...

Hi there, I having a few issues, I'm wondering if someone can give some advice. I'm testing out the best setting to print the Diatom (as attached), unsure whether to print in 2 halves or use dissolvable HIPS support, suggestions welcome. Diatom.png I'm using an N2Plus with the wall being created by ...

Hi there, I have had good results using blackboard or carbon fibre vinyl sourced from signage companies, ensure you source the thickest version mine is 0.2mm. They both have a good surface texture to allow stickability, and much cheaper than BuildTak and can be sourced locally. All the best Andrew@G...

Here's my air intake mod. Laser cut a new cover with 50mm O/D PVC tube mounted in a flange bolted to the cover, the inlet that butts up against the fan housing and the door which has a hole cut that an air filter push fits into. I also covered the vents 2/3 down the enclosure with red acrylic to aid...

I'm looking to enhance the cooling too as when the heated bed passes the electronic box the fan is pulling in warm air generated by the bed, which I suspect is resulting in mis-steps. See post: http://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110#p1148 Both the designs posted on this topic may not b...

If it wiggles back and forth, especially when it is fine for a certain period, I would suspect stepper driver over heat the most. @gyro, you forgot about the pictures. Just thinking back, I had the bed at 70deg and suspect as it got lower in the cabinet the warm air was being pulled through the ele...

Hi All, I have a similar result when printing a long fluted column. The first 360mm was perfect yet from there on the print looking quite shaky, I was initial wondering if it was the cable chain rolling as the blips are almost the same distance the the chain pivot points but I don't think that is th...

Here you go, the part is pretty small, I stopped printing at the point where the layers were becoming more obvious and recommenced with the 0.01mm setting, using Simplify3D.

Cheers Andrew@Gyro

Now that makes sense as I had just that problem along with a further complication as per this link:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=97&sid=08123c7e8ef0eb54906bf7034afebe34#p651

Hi All, I spent a few hours pressing the remaining bend out of my heater plate, I have replaced the glass with 6mm G10 FR4 Glass Epoxy Sheet, I slit the edge with a 3mm tipped saw, probably blunted it in the process! The slit allows the clips to clamp below the build surface give a clear build surfa...

Here's a tip to aid the levelling with the new screws, wind in the first worm screw tipped or otherwise, move the printhead over the top of the screw, wind the worm screw until it just touches the nozzle, repeat with the rest of the screws this will have them all protruding the same amount relative ...

After unloading the PLA to change colour the next filament would not load with the drive wheel grinding to no avail, after completely disassembling the print head a small piece of filament was lodged on the head part way down on a small lip (see image), most likely jammed by the process of attemptin...

Hi there, I did the same too! I have also added a length of 90deg 15x15mm aluminium extrusion to the edge of the door (painted satin black of course) and moved the latches across by end for ending the plastic strip they are mounted on so they line up corrected with the striker plates as mine were ba...

Hi John, I can see no square button on my home screen. I also have spend hours attempting to get the build plate level, there is about 0.15mm less clearance in the centre of the bed, without clips, I can only assume it's the combined flex bend on the rods supporting the print head. I even wondered a...

Hi All, I'm having a lot problems attempting my first print using dual nozzle setup, one for support and one for the model. I have studied he contents of the forum subject without success. The Dual Extruder Template.xml that was kindly posted has an offset of Y - 52mm, whereas the nozzles are 25mm a...

Hi there, I'm not having any success with creating a profile that allows for the dual head offset, I have tried the <Dual_Extruder_Template.xml> that was posted but without success. If anyone has a working template I can use for PLA printing it would be much appreciated. Ideally with the script that...

Thanks for the in depth answer to my question, it's much appreciated.
Beat Andrew

Hi Robert, I have just printed my second test print since receiving my N2+ here in NZ. I can't get Simply3D to communicate via a USB cable which I understand is it's on form of 2 way communication with a Mac, is that correct. Do you print via USB cable or from a memory stick? Can you offer any advic...