Official Raise3D Community

You need to tune your layer thickness to optimize your support. Since support separation can only be set as a number of layers, fine tuning requires you to adjust your layer thickness to find the point where support is still removable, but the separation distance is small enough to get decent integr...

Stepper motors are bloody simple. I'd be more inclined to look at the driver than the motor itself. You can do some simple debugging by swapping X & Y motor cables on the control board. If the issue stays with the Y axis, then it's either the cable or the motor. If it moves to the X axis, then i...

Wire colors are not universal, but it's pretty obvious when you have it hooked up wrong. There are numerous standards for coloring thermocouple leads based on type, so depending on where your goods are made ...

Also, what speed and layer height are you running? PETG doesn't take back pressure as well as some materials. You might try slowing down or (depending on material brand), raising your nozzle temp. Hatchbox Black I'll run at 255-260C. I usually run PETG with a 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle.

I would suggest PETG over ABS if you want a bit of flex in your part. PETG is more elastic than ABS, but still very strong. PETG is the only material where I've been able to achieve layer bond strength good enough that the part won't fracture along layer lines. PETG isn't great for application where...

I don't kill motors, so I can drop the bed manually if I want to after the print is done. I don't use ideamaker except in rare cases.

No other ideas from me - sounds odd that the M code works on other motors. Maybe @Vickie can step in here, or put in a ticket with support.

You could try M84.

If you want to disable the steppers at the end of a print, add M18 to your end script.

The only trick I can think of with the Pro 2 is getting the lifting nozzles working, but the Duet boards are very flexible, so I would not expect it to be a big deal. I know nothing of how the lifting nozzles on the Pro2 are actuated. Other than that the board swap should be a pretty similar process...

You're not going to achieve clean overhang of much over 60 degrees without using support. There's just nothing for the filament to sit on. Gravity sucks.

Vicky@Raise3D wrote:We will give Gap Fill a feature tag in future version, as well as an individual color in Gcode Preview.

Very nice. Thank you.

Paul123 wrote:@zemlin: is this an original Raise - CAD file or rebuild?

I created the file when I had my printer apart to replace the linear bearings. It is pretty close, except deep in the cavity where I was unable to take measurements or clearly see what was going on.

Vicky@Raise3D wrote:Fill in Infill. Solid Fill has Top and Bottom layers and Gap Filling.

Thank you. Would still like a way to isolate Gap Filling for post processing.

This isn't from the PRO, but the N2/N2+. Might be a start.
I replaced my control board with a Duet2 WIFI and added a BL-Touch to my printers. That's been a game changer.

https://grabcad.com/library/raise3d-n2- ... assembly-1

I'm testing out IM for some parts that require precision. Printing my test part for scaling and offsets, I found I needed a LOT more offset (XY Compensation) on the inside dimensions that the outside. Printing the same part with same basic settings with S3D I don't get that kind of difference betwee...

Looking at moving to IdeaMaker (Beta 4.0) for some parts I'm building. I've used S3D in the past but am getting some minor artifacts in the print which I believe are slicer issues. I want to use the Post-process options to enable/disable certain features for infill and gap fill, but the TYPE comment...

I do not try to make adjustments in the 3D model. I have a process I go through for establishing part scaling and horizontal offset values in the slicer. Some discussion on it can be found here: https://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5111 I have had very good success with this for a numbe...