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I replaced the control board on my N2 & N2+ printers and added a BL-Touch probe which doubles for meshing the bed and as a Z-stop (Duet2 Wifi). I just enter a Z-offset after a nozzle change and the rest is taken care of. Temperature creep is not an issue because it touches off the bed before eac...

KaneTW wrote:Just copy what Markforged does. Laser distance sensor and a program that guides you through levelling, then compensates for the rest.

and they charge $36,000 for a 330mm (w) x 270mm (d) x 200mm (h) build volume.

Blue21 wrote:Do you know the exact model of Olsson Ruby compatible with E2 or PRO2 you used?

Nope, because I print with an N2/N2+. Shame on me for not noticing this was in the E2 subforum.

Solex makes ruby nozzles compatible with the Pro.

A short video showing the hood replacement and function.
https://youtu.be/GdGbJkPPWg8

My main side gig is photography. One of my cool toys is a Nikon 400mm f/2.8 lens. Big lenses like this typically use a clamping screw arrangement to secure the lens hood in place, which I don't like. It's not real secure and it's a bit fiddly getting the hood on the lens. I've had my hood fall off t...

To get a better picture of what's going on you can't consider one dimension, or just inside dimensions. How do the outside dimensions of the model compare to nominal?

Been printing a bunch of glass-filled ABS. Compared an A2 hardened nozzle and an Olsson Ruby (both .6mm dia). Ran a bunch of Carbon filled nylon for another job and was doing well with the Ruby on the glass ABS. I tried the A2 nozzle on the glass ABS and got inconsistent prints - seems the nozzle wa...

The settings will be in your STL export. I don't know F360, but other programs I've used display a preview of the STL. There should be some settings that allow you to create more facets. It's not going to be in the slicer.

A warning - I just learned that making a ribbon cable extension to between the Duet board and the Thermocouple daughter board is a bad idea. The communication protocol used on the daughterboards does not do well over any significant distance. I guess I've been lucky on my N2 - Thought the N2+ was go...

I find PEI to be a much better, more durable build surface for ABS than BuildTak.
Never tried PEI on glass, so can't speak to how that might work. I've always had it on 1/4" aluminum.

Even in injection molded plastics, color has a significant impact on part size. With the same material, same color, a different material lot can result in print differences. Different moisture levels, there are all kinds of factors that come into play - some we have control over, some we don't. Your...

You might have a few things going on. Being too close on your first layer can create an "elephant foot" on the model - expansion at the build plate. Over-extrusion can also push out the perimeter where solid layers are being printed. Too much heat on the build plate can also warp the sidew...

I'm currently running a glass filled ABS. Changed to material with a different lot number - need to recalibrate. It doesn't take much.

There are so many variables that impact the dimensional accuracy of a part. Anything that impacts how the plastic flows from the nozzle will have an impact on the final part dimensions, whether it's speed, temperature, layer thickness ... even the color of the material has a significant impact. It's...

I use the SCALE number to scale models on the build plate. Double click on a model and you can CHANGE SCALING. Horizontal offset is on the OTHER tab. In IM you can also scale on the build plate. There used to be something comparable to the Horizontal Offset, but it appears that's been replaced by th...

Here's the process I use for achieving dimensional accuracy.
I don't slice with IM, but the principals are the same. I normally can achieve +/- .1mm on dimensions large and small.
https://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php ... oss#p26962

The problem stems from elasticity of the melted material and pressure in the nozzle as the printer slows at the corners. Running the prints at a slower print speed and/or reducing acceleration/jerk settings can also improve the corners. Linear Advance/Pressure Advance can address this without reduci...

You say the first layer was flat. Not sure what you mean by that.
Is the bottom surface of the failed print perfectly flat?

There are about 17 different things that can cause layer shifts. A few that come to mind are Condition of the gantry rods (lubrication, cleanliness). Speed, acceleration, jerk settings exceeding machine capabilities (either travel speed or print speed). Material collects on nozzle - drops blob on pa...

3D printing isn't plug-and-play. A different material color, different brand, different moisture level ... or just a different spool sometimes. It will do you good to play with the retraction settings and learn what those settings are for.