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You say the first layer was flat. Not sure what you mean by that.
Is the bottom surface of the failed print perfectly flat?

There are about 17 different things that can cause layer shifts. A few that come to mind are Condition of the gantry rods (lubrication, cleanliness). Speed, acceleration, jerk settings exceeding machine capabilities (either travel speed or print speed). Material collects on nozzle - drops blob on pa...

3D printing isn't plug-and-play. A different material color, different brand, different moisture level ... or just a different spool sometimes. It will do you good to play with the retraction settings and learn what those settings are for.

What printer are you running?

You need to look at your retraction settings. Retraction, retraction speed, extra restart (might need to add a little negative there) and coast will all impact extra material that the perimeter start point.

Working on my N2+ now - here's a shot of the board mounted using the brackets I shared above. I replaced the blower with a 24V unit, and also removed the standoffs in the case which space the blower away from the back of the box. On my N2+ (cover screws on the box) there were inserts in holes that s...

A brief follow up on my experience with an N2 running with the Duet2 Wifi board. Real happy with the outcome. The touch screen is not in used. I got an old iPad2 from my daughter and have that by the printer just with the web browser for printer control. Landcape - Portrait mode cuts down the number...

I've had some that were tough to unscrew, but never to the point of damaging the throat tube.

I spell out some of the process in a few posts here: https://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17428#p54231 I have the advantage of having two printers, so while one was down for the upgrade I could make the parts I needed. It's far from a plug-and-play endeavor, but there weren't any major...

I'll be interested to know if there's any noticeable improvement in the printing - speed or quality.

Yes, my printed tabs are .5mm up from the bottom of the plate, so the spring clips pull the aluminum down to contact the hot-plate.

On my N2 & N2+, I wanted to get the clips out of the build area. I moved the heated bed 12mm forward (toward the door), and also moved the Y endstop switch by 12mm toward the door. With that I was able to get 300x300 of clear build area, and also was able to add some attachment clips to 12x12 sq...

Last night I replaced the crappy Amazon bearings in my N2+ with the THK bearings. I still have the factory bearings in my N2. The THK bearings eliminated the play I had with the Amazon bearings, but I can't claim that they are better than the original bearings in the N2. Based on my cost for the THK...

Hey @zemlin, I'd like to run native octoprint on the unit. Have you been able to make any progress on this? I have not, and the Duet Web Control interface doesn't do as well in a portrait mode display - so I haven't put any more effort into it. My daughter had an old iPad that is working well as th...

Some PETG bubbles if the print speed is too slow. I normally print PETG with a 0.6mm nozzle. You don't want the print speed too slow either. I generally run at least 60mm/s to keep the flow rate up. I've never used Spectrum PETG, but the comment you make about retraction could be the material being ...

A colleague showed me the flexible, powder-coated PEI, spring steel build plate from his Prusa printer. I love PEI as a build surface, but have been looking for a way to get rid of the double-sided adhesive for quite some time. The bed on my N2 and N2+ printers has been modified with 4-point adjustm...

On the tube_test.stl file there is a pocket on the bottom of the part, so the first couple of layers would print with a hole. If printed solid there would be a pocket on the bottom with support structure required for the top of the void. Looking at the model in IM again, I see the default first laye...

I compared S3D and Ideamaker on the Tube Test part - S3D leaves the hole on the solid layers. Ideamaker does not. Vase mode, one solid layer is what I set up.

1) You do not need a raft. A raft helps compensate for build surface irregularities and some folks prefer the appearance of the build on a raft. The bed clearance to the nozzle is not as critical either. It adds to the build time though and many folks do not use them. I do not. 2) That is perimeters...

If you're using M572 you could try stepping that up a bit to increase the initial nozzle pressure.