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I don't think those steppers would have enough power to do any damage to the machine.

I've never printed ASA. I don't have a PRO. The screws on the flanges of the Z axis ball screws are supposed to be loose to prevent binding.

santro wrote:1. Z Hop at retraction under the Extruder Tab?

Yes

Is the gear slipping/grinding into the filament, or is the gear no longer rotating?

Thanks for the update. Wouldn't have expected the bushings to sing. Interesting. If lube is critical something I've done in the past (not on 3D printers) is use heavy felt to retain/distribute oil. Something like a 2mm thick felt washer on each side of the gantry block would keep he shafts lubricate...

Surely you can't do this in vase-mode? Agree - from what you've shown that part cannot be printed in Vase Mode. You need to have a part with one continuous shell so the nozzle can spiral up continuously while printing. If the printer needs to stop the flow of plastic to move to a different part of ...

How has that Olsson Ruby been working with the PEEK washer so far? (Oh... and just confirming: you have an N2-series, right?) Yes, I have the N2. The ruby nozzles have been good. Using them for all filaments, not just the filled stuff. The peek washers have been working well. Usually they stick in ...

Since you're using IGUS bushings, I'm guessing you also got your aluminum shaft material from IGUS. I'm considering following your lead and doing a similar rod swap and gantry redesign. Was wondering if you considered the hollow 12mm material? Higher moment of inertia and lower weight than 10mm soli...

Excellent work on the gantry mod.

At the day job we have a MarkForged MKII printer. I just discovered an interesting feature of this machine. Between layers the head makes a trip to the X/Y Home. I had wondered why it did that. Today I found out. Some support came loose from the bed on the build I was running this morning. I got a n...

I actually rotate it and print it upside down as it is hollow on the inside. Does anyone have any ideas why it would come out like this and what I could do to make it better? So the face we see in the slicer image you are actually printing on the machine bed? In that case the flat face is on the be...

Your 'boogers' are likely from nozzle ooze when it is moving between the towers. You might try increasing your retraction and/or z-hop. If it is, in fact, ooze getting wiped off on the outside, a large enough z-hop should cause the printer to deposit the ooze booger inside the part before it starts ...

Hey all! I am interested in finally getting my own 3d printer and while doing research ... What do you see as you primary applications for 3D printing? Are you looking at it for a commercial application, or personal projects/interest? Do you have a minimum build volume requirement, or a maximum bud...

fwiw - I've been running Ollson ruby nozzles with no mods. I did have sealing issues against the throat tube, however - I started using a PEEK washer as a gasket between the throat and nozzle. It's worked well for me.
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Hi Zemlin, thanks again. I've got a couple of follow up questions. I normally use a separation of one layer. Where do I specify this in IdeaMaker? It's called Vertical Offset Top for material building on top of support. Vertical Offset Down Layers for support that starts on top of the build. My sug...

Another thing you'll be learning soon is that with some materials the overhang will tend to curl up when printing regardless of the support you build underneath it, and that can lead to a rough under-side as well. Just something to watch for, and may drive you to settings on support that make it a l...

In working with support the layer thickness of the build is an important variable, as you can only specify the separation from the support as a number of layers. I normally use a separation of one layer. My suggestion would be to make a small test part that requires support on a shallow-angle surfac...

Polarbehr wrote:Still don't know why I get the textured layer only on one side during printing.

In that photo of the first layer, the bed is not true to the nozzle - where it gets too close you can get the squiggles. Backing down on the flow rate will help with that, but you might need to tweak the bed as well.

Overextrusion. Around holes like that the surface fills in patches. Your ridge is where one patch stops and the next starts - they are printed at different times and the overextrusion builds up excess material. your test square paints the surface uninterrupted from one corner to the other. That's wh...

You have complete control of raft adhesion. There's a setting for the separation between the build and the raft. Don't have IM in front of me, so can't give you the exact name. Increase that. I often start with that at 80% of the layer height and adjust from there to get the raft adhesion I want. Th...