Official Raise3D Community

Except for the whiskers and koban, I printed it all on my Pro2 Plus.

Life-sized for a Meowth is about 400 mm tall according to the Bulbapedia entry.

I learned something today! :lol: i did remember another trick that sometimes works. I'll put a small "tower" of PVA in addition to the main model. The height is as high as the model. That ensures that the PVA doesn't sit idle in the nozzle too long, so for every layer at least a little is ...

You use 250 deg C on the PVA? That sounds extremely HOT. I use Inland (cheap) PVA and print at 195 deg C. If I get a clog, it's frequently because the PVA is sitting idle for a long time, and either the bit in the nozzle carbonizes or the bit in the throat hardens from the heat. Check your temp on t...

Yes, I had the same feeling about printing the little Aztec pyramid thing. Also, I couldn't figure out how to read the darn thing. I've attached two files, 1b.stl and 2b.stl. Align the two models, print 1b with the left extruder, 2b with the right extruder. If you're aligned, the square will line up...

If the partial print will crash into the extruder during homing, you can't restart the print. I've restarted after jams, but I was able to home and such. Unless someone else has an idea, your best bet is to remove the partial print, then print the missing piece, and glue it together. Sucks, but if y...

If you have a single color model you want to separate into two parts, you can use Meshmixer to
separate the parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hnGD8AKlg4

If you click on the object then select the 'scale' tool, it will show the x-y-z dimensions of the part.

I've found that to be pretty helpful.

That's pretty darn cool!

I look forward to updates.

Heat Creep?

I think some of the wipe walls that Ideamaker creates are rather artistic.

So, yes, it was heat creep. I added some thermal compound between the heat sinks and throat tube. Raised up the lid to keep heat down in the print chamber. Lowered the build plate temperature. Oh yeah and I replaced the front cooling fan. I'm pretty sure this is the fault of Raise3D's poor design, a...

A sensor could detect lack of filament movement, or detect clicking in the extruder.

Really, how many HD movies of Baby Groot being printed do we need?

I like that.

I didn't know there was a famous bad temperature sensor socket. I'll look at that. Funny how all these machines have quirks and idiosyncracies. Heat creep - I had considered that but wasn't positive. Not sure how to counteract that; I'll do some more research. Thanks for the diagnosis! I think "...

Cleared out the jam. The filament above the jam looks nice and smooth. Below the jam (between gears and hotend) the filament is pretty banged up looking. (see photo, left to right cleaning rod, right filament, left filament). I'm running with less pressure on the filament on the gears. Maybe I was j...

I keep getting jams in the left extruder below the extruder gears, where the filament goes through the guide hole. There seems to be wear on the plastic piece, since the black paint has worn off to show white plastic. Jammed this time on 3DSolutech natural, but this has happened using other filament...

That purge block is HUGE!

I know when I change filament colors, it takes a while to purge the old color
before the new color comes out.

Thank you for being a pioneer merging the palette 2 with the Raise printer.
I've been debating on whether to get one since last Christmas.

I've had the same thing happen using glow in the dark, UV and temp color change filament.

I suspect that the sensor is infrared based, and some of these filaments are more or less transparent to that wavelength.

Turning off the filament sensor worked for me.

Is your filament hanging up?

That's pretty cool.

What program did you use for the photogrammetry?