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This looks like it may be coupler related, specifically on the Y-axis. Tap on the printer's utility tab > stepper motor icon with the red "X" on it (this will disable the motors and they will auto-engage once the printer is told to home on all axes again) > then gently move the print head ...

The grey-colored print looks to not be suffering as much as the red one. I recommend slowing down the print speeds a bit to see if this helps with eliminating this effect. Since more detail is required to help in seeing what's causing this, I recommend making a support ticket as you can then provide...

Please contact us through the following link for assistance on this issue: https://help.raise3d.com/support/home

The official hyperspeed update is not yet finished, but we do have access to the version that takes care of this issue. Please contact us for further assistance: https://help.raise3d.com/support/home

I was able to replicate this bug on my end with your detailed description. Thanks for letting us know about this; I will report this bug over to our RaiseTouch team.

Thank you.

Based on what you've described, it's more than likely that the printer's motion controller board is no longer working properly (likely due to that right hotend event) and is in need of being replaced. For more information/troubleshooting, please contact us at: https://help.raise3d.com/support/home

I stumbled across this post while looking for ways to stop "heat creep" so that my extremely expensive Pro2 Plus might print at least as reliably as some hobby-grade thing off Amazon. I had been smelling an odd burnt plastic smell lately when the printer is going, but I assumed it was jus...

Just so I forward this feature request properly, instead of showing the layer counts for top and bottom solid fill, you'd like to see these settings displayed in thickness instead? (for example in mm instead of layer count?)

At the moment, the E2 and Pro3 printers would be our only active printers that have the ability to adjust the pressure advance values. We recommend only changing these values a small amount after each test print to help see what value works best for you (increments of 0.05) . A larger pressure advan...

This circle is normal and expected whenever you are printing with dual color. Although you can remove it, this wipe tower helps with priming your nozzle each time the inactive hotend is set to active. Without this, the nozzle will not be primed and you run the risk of the first section of the layer ...

Our filament run-out sensors are using an optical sensor that reads the absence of filament with infrared light. If a clear material type is used (even semi-clear), the light can travel through the material and trigger the other side, causing the sensor to think that there's no more martial. Since o...

If your right hotend temperature is greyed out in ideaMaker, you might have some filament overrides enabled. It's not uncommon to encounter this when printing with the PVA or PVA+ profiles as these overrides will typically cause some settings to be greyed out and have a pencil icon on the left. We r...

This line is expected at times since that's the beginning of the solid fill region (commonly also seen on the benchy model. If you have one on hand that's been printed, you might be able to notice it too) . If you're printing too fast (your speeds are looking to be on the higher side at 150mm/s) , i...

Thanks Manuel, that's a huge help to understand the relationship between the settings. I don't want to hijack this thread, and maybe we need one dedicated to optimising the slicer, but will any settings impact this issue with random blobs of solid fill 2023-03-06_114939.jpg : You can try increasing...

A layer shift can be the cause of a few different things (as mentioned by @Gamma). Some of the common causes for layer shifting are listed below: - Part warping: If a part begins to warp even if it's just from one corner, this will eventually lead to the nozzle colliding with the print and cause a l...

If it helps, you can reference the following online guides to help with doing this on your end: Hotend install: https://support.raise3d.com/N1/how-to-install-the-hot-end-silicone-cover-1-697.html (this is technically meant for the silicone sock installation, however, it goes through the same steps) ...

There is a setting in ideaMaker that's similar to what's seen in the provided video from OP that's under Edit > preferences > Files > Weld vertices. When the "weld vertices" setting is enabled in ideaMaker, the software automatically detects vertices that are close enough to be considered ...

There is a setting in your advanced setting window that removes the middle shell's jagged lines. Advanced settings window > "other" tab > (ensure "fill gaps in shells" is on) then enable "allow filling gaps using single extrusion filling" Example images of before, after...

I do believe this is related to a bug and will forward this issue to our ideaMAker development team for review.

Thank you for pointing this out!

The "raft gap from model" setting defines the distance between the top of the raft's surface and the beginning of the model, however, upon re-reading your response, I do believe something else is at play here since the calibration print is having this issue too (which would rule out slicer...