Official Raise3D Community

Yes thanks, will keep that in mind!

ocelot27 wrote:You will need to have an adapter machined - the tolerances are too tight for FDM and the part will need to be pretty strong.

-john

Challenge accepted

Thanks for the tip, I will probably use the e3d thermistors when I change out the hot ends. I have made an adapter for the mosquito, which I plan to print. Have you printed yours or have you made it in another way? If the heat dissapation is as good as you say it is I think I could get away with us...

Thanks for the tip, I will probably use the e3d thermistors when I change out the hot ends. I have made an adapter for the mosquito, which I plan to print. Have you printed yours or have you made it in another way? If the heat dissapation is as good as you say it is I think I could get away with usi...

When I check the gcode you are letting your print hang in the air and not be leveled with the raft, is there a reason for this? That would probably remove the need for support but would not helt your other problems.

Grymt att det fungerar igen! Kolla in deras hjälpsidor, där finns hur man byter allt. På kabelstegen tipsar jag om att ta det lite försiktigt, några av mina gick sönder vid spännet när jag lossade dem. Wow att det började brinna. Har pratat med en kompis som pluggar till brandingenjör om vad man kan...

Känner igen problemet att det klickar men inte roterar fast det inte är något material i. Jag behövde byta extruder och då fungerade motorerna som de ska igen. Jag har dessutom satt på kylflänsar på mina då jag märkte (som så många andra) att motorerna blev sjukt varma. Nu kör jag med dörren öppen, ...

I also had an issue with the nozzle lifting system. This is kind of silly when I remember it but you could check it anyway. If you remove the hot ends, can you move the lifting system? In my case the heat sinks were a tiny bit rotated. This meant that they could not move up and down clearly. This is...

You could add a fan that is not powered by the printer to blow on the heat sinks imo. If you need more powerful fans to blow on the printed filament then you would have some extra amps to work with. The fan that blows on the heat sinks is always on anyway.

I recieved a new hot end and the throat tube is glued with something to the hot end. The ones that came with the printer did not have any glue, is this something that is new?

Hur fungerade det med Raise egna PLA? Skrivaren ska vara ju vara optimerad för den plasten. Den ska fungera perfekt, tycker inte den är så dyr heller egentligen och kan vara en bra start om ni vill att skrivaren ska jobba mer självständigt. Håller också med om att Prima Select är bättre. Får jag frå...

The wipe wall is used to establish a consistent flow and to wipe the nozzle before moving to the model. This will make your model cleaner (prettier). These terms that you are talking about is not only a thing that Raise is using, but is standard in most FFF 3D-printers. I recommend checking out some...

Did you try using dense support? If the distance between the model and the support is to large, the lines could be drooping down a bit.

Is the gaps consistent throughout the whole model? It seems weird that it only has gaps in that area alone.

You could try using dense support layers, that will make the support at the top better. The drawback is that it might be hard to remove the support from the model. I would advise using PVA in that case or experiment more with support infill, gap to model or other support settings.

Spud wrote:so Superlube on all smooth stainless rods?
I just used the grease on all of those......where oh where are the instructions?

I found it under maintenance, https://support.raise3d.com/pro2-series ... ent_id=226 .

I had a similar clog on my ultimaker 2+. Depending on the filament, heat the hot ends between Tg and Tm and it should be soft enough to come off with some help.

ocelot27 wrote:Mine will be here in a few days - have no reason to doubt their quality as they've been producing the same nozzles for the Ultimaker for some time.... will post an update.

-john

Didn't you upgrade to mosquito hot ends? Couldn't you have any nozzles you want then or why would you use these nozzles?

That is so nice! What did you get except the mosquito hot ends? Thermistors and heat rods? I'm thinking I need to adress my issues with this hot ends as soon as possible. I know you wrote that you did not need any FW mods but could you install the mosquito thermistor and heat rod without changing an...

Hej Simon, Kör ni med PLA när det händer? det har förmodligen med att värmeavledningen på Raise3D är väldigt dålig. Värmen går från hot enden till plasten som expanderar/mjuknar på väg till nozzlen. Plasten fastnar och skriver inte ut alls eller väldigt dåligt. Kan ge dig lite tips som jag håller på...

I have been thinking a lot about printing abrasive filaments in my Pro2 but have not really dared to buy anything that is not totally compatible with the Pro2's throat tube and hot end. I saw that 3dsolex had produced a nozzle for the N2 but there wasn't anyone for the Pro2 yet. But! Apparently they...