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Thank you for your suggestion. I have sent this over to the development team to see if they can add this as a feature for the printer.

As Zombiepatch noted the issue is very likly the 10a fuse has blown and replacing it with a replacement 10a automotive spade fuse should fix it

Unfortunately I do not have any documents for specifically ABS and the above guide is still applicable for all types of material not just PLA.

Here are the acceleration values for the E2 printer "firmware_acce_max_e": 3000, "firmware_acce_max_x": 1000, "firmware_acce_max_y": 500, "firmware_acce_max_z": 100, "firmware_acce_printing": 800, "firmware_acce_retract": 3000, "firmwa...

The easiest way to push out material in this way would be to run the load cycle on the machine at a hotter temp to push out any material in the hot end.

Unfortunaly at this time we are not working with this company, but I can reach out to our development team to see if they would like to reach out to this company.

This is has been reported based off of this forum post.

The belt on the E2 for the Y axis is being held on to build plate sled and to access it the best way would be to remove the heated bed by using this guidehttps://support.raise3d.com/E2/how-to-replace-the-heatbed-20-1042.html if it is a clicking sound it is very likely one of the bearings causing the...

I am sorry that the update was pushed to the Pro2 printers by mistake and it is safe to ignore it at this time.

For what you are trying to do here I reccomend that you try the adaptive support setting in ideamaker as this will vary the infill amount for the support structure and will reduce the amount of supports overall. You can read more about it here https://www.ideamaker.io/dictionaryDetail.html?name=Enab...

At this time we have chosen not to go with a live z adjustment for our printers as we found in our testing the calibration prints were more reliable in getting a consistent z-offset for the machine. I am sorry that we do not have this setting that you would like and I will send the suggestion over t...

Can I have you create a support ticket as this issue is likely due to the hot end control board located on the back of the print head assembly and if you can speak with one of our support agents we can look into get a replacement sent out. If you are located overseas then I would reccomend reaching ...

For the printer you should not need to do a cold pull, but if this is something you would like to attempt I would reccomend that you heat up the hot end and then stop the heating to stop power going to the hot end then while wearing the heat resistant gloves included with the printer remove the hot ...

At this time this is likely a bug in the firmware and it is being reported over to the team to get fixed as soon as possible. I am sorry that you have encountered this issue.

There should be no difference between the different build surfaces you have used as they are all BuildTak surfaces and we have not changed the product since the N-series only the sizing.

I am sorry that we do not have the guides out for you and I will say they are currently being worked on, but they are a bit delayed due to the other printers that are being manufactured. I am sorry about this and I do not wish to provide a specified date at this time for when they will be released a...

The idea behind the current structure of selecting a template for the machine is effectively like stacking folders. WE have the main printer that is not only setting the build volume of the printer and other important details that are printer specific, Then we go into the filament choice which is ma...

Thank you for your feature request. I will go ahead and get this sent over to our development team to see if this is something we can add to the printer.

From the picture it looks like there was a section of lowered extrusion on this section of the wall and it is possible that the issue could have been due to wet filament as PETG is somewhat hygroscopic and if there is moisture in the line it can cause odd effects when print.

The intent of the calibration prints is to ensure that there is very little room for error and thus less risk of damage being done to the machine. What you have found here is a more advanced way of adjusting your offset, as adjusting the offset this way has some risks of moving the offset too close ...