Official Raise3D Community

I see only one version on the shop, is it for the casted or machined carrier? Or does it work With ether one.

Newer mind did see that info on the shop, that it works With both.

Is this to only run the autotune?
when reboting the printer will it go back to the original state as in working touchscreen?

Might be werry usefull to have a big nozzle on second extruder to do infils, to speed upp large prints.

If I would be building a new 3d printer I would propably be going with the new duet.
http://www.duet3d.com/

I use white lithium grease with PTFE

firesped wrote:I am running it remotely via wireless and accessing octoprint via web browser.

just got done printing a backup front part for the bondtech. Now I am printing out a new board cover plate.

is there any "how to" to get octoprint working?

Yes, the shipping cost is too high, I wanted to order some fans and nozzles but will not since the shipping is too high. I don´t need to have it express shipped to my door by DHL, I prefer not to since I am mostly not home to receive the shipment when they deliver. Ordinary postal service where I ha...

DSC_0223.JPG So the rear part got deformed by heat so much as even though the tension screw was all the way in the drive gears could not get hold of the filament. not sure if it´s only the ambient temp. in the chamber when lid is on that made it, or if it is the added temp of the extruder motor. Pe...

Mine plan was to have a spare thermocouple to switch it when removing the hotend, but since srew terminals are needed then I quess I will not be removing the hotend.

yes I supose they are better, but how does the signal get pased down to the main board? it is aparently fine to have simpler conection there.
I have other 3d printers whare molex conectors betwen the control board and the hotend parts work just fine.

Unfortunetly if that would be the aswer. I have done the adjustment to both top drivers. I knew about what driver is what extruder since it was posted about earlyer whare it was mentioned about adjusting it to 1.1v since one extruder was set to 1.3. so when doing the Bondtech update I adjusted both ...

After upgrading to Bondtech I lowered it to 0,6 I had lowered it earlier to 1.1 before the upgrade. With the lid on, the temperature in the chamber is at about 80 deg. Atlest that is what the other hot end is showing and I have both isolated. Ordinary PLA has a glass transitions temperature of like ...

Would it be possible to have quick connectors for the thermocoupler and the heater rod instead of the screw terminals on the extruder connection board?
Would make it a bit easier to removing one extruder when not needed and putting it back for dual printing.

Could you perhaps provide some alternative to DHL shipping, like ordinary post.
A nozzle or other small parts could easily fit in a padded envelope. $ 25.00 USD shipping for a nozzle is a bit to much.

I just upgraded to Bondtech extruder with parts that I printed in the raise PLA. Wanted to print new parts in ABS now, but unfortunately I am getting Air prints after a while. I did lower the extruder voltage. I am printing with lid on, and the extruder motor is getting wary hot. is it possible that...

Was this a question about electrical insulating or heat insulating?

when will there be some stock in the EU warehouse?

I beleve they ware replacements from Raise that is why I am wondering if mine could also be replaced.

well not realy pleased with the prints. what problems does the bearing play make? I get variatains in layer, when a line is printed in x direction there is variations in the Y direction. thinking of doing the bondtech change to one direct and one bowden extruder to lower the mass so do get rid of so...

Is this kind of bearing play something that should be requested to get fixed. I have same play on mine N2 as was posted in
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=239
I checked it and the play is betwen the rod and bearing not the bearing and housing as Jetguy mentioned might be the problem.