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I got mine all installed until I got to the point of hooking it up to the main board. The connector I was provided only has a single 4 pin connector, not the three separate connectors in the install directions. 20180514_193609.jpg There is no three separate connector cable in your package? Would yo...

I got mine all installed until I got to the point of hooking it up to the main board. The connector I was provided only has a single 4 pin connector, not the three separate connectors in the install directions.

I just got mine in the mail today. I found a placeholder page for the installation guide but it is blank. https://www.raise3d.com/pages/filament-run-out-sensor-installation-instruction I would like to get it installed and configured. There should be a link to the installation and setup on the order ...

Sorry I've been absent for a while I recently moved from San Diego to Fallon NV :( Not by choice I swear. Anyway, I don't think I did anything crazy with the settings. I'm pretty sure I ran it at about 225c nozzle, 105 bed, layer height was .15 as I said and standard speed settings however I do turn...

Do you mean the shell built up around the part? That's the wipe wall. It keeps those long oozy strings from getting embedded in the print.

Hatchbox has so far given me the best results on the N2 Plus as far as 3rd party filaments. I'm really impressed by their PLA and this is the first test of the ABS I have done after some calibration prints. I printed this with Hatchbox Orange ABS. Finally got the settings right for it and it came ou...

That turned out great, what were the settings and print time on it?

Well then, I definitely see what you are saying there now.

I just got my N2+ about 2 weeks ago so it has all the latest bells and whistles in it including the upgraded extruders and fixed bed issues minus the fiber plate. Before I got this I was about to buy an Ultimaker 2 extended+ which from my experience and what I've seen in the community is one of the ...

I'm really curious what kind of results you expect to get from this. Your entire print would look like the outer edge of the raft if you printed it with no shells. It would also not have accurate dimensions unless you set the infill overlap to 100%. It would have no smooth finish, and a lot of the o...

Yes, this is a pretty standard feature in many other slicing software. For very intricate models I either have to make the supports very solid or use CURA. It's fine but I'm really liking IdeaMaker so far and I don't like jumping back and forth between slicers.

I already asked this on the software forum, it would be nice too because then we could fork our own versions to share.

That is strange if it came from Solidworks. My guess would be it was some feature that created a triangle too small for the slicer software to recognize or an error was introduced while exporting as an stl.

It's the same principle, the smaller the infill % the bigger visual difference you will see with small changes. Larger infill % will produce smaller visual differences with the same amount of change. Kind of like nobody notices 500 million dollars added to the debt now that its in the trillions, but...

I think you are all going a bit far with this. Think of it this way, 25% is 160% of 15%, so the difference between the two is quite large. Going from say 50% to 75% will be less noticible to the eye because 50% already looks darn near filled in. I'd chalk it up to a visual oddity kind of like when y...

Whenever I have a messed up model and it seems to slice fine I just carefully check the preview results. One time I had a model that I sliced in CURA and it looked fine but ended up filling in a hole that was meant to receive another part and I just didn't catch it in the preview. Went back to the m...

That should do the trick for you and as long as you are using raft minor imperfections in the bed leveling will not be an issue. Getting the entire plate level to the nozzle is quite a process. I did it earlier this week and it involves adjusting all 9 points underneath the bed. It's a bit tedious b...

Just got the same drivers to replace my x & y axis steppers and wanted to point out how I swapped the direction. Rather than use some kind of fancy connector I just removed the female pins from the connector and swapped sides keeping the pairs connected in the same order. It was easy to remove b...

So about my second question, would it be possible to put the current working N2+ Marlin source code on GitHub? Maybe as a fork to the kickstarter version. I would like to make some changes but I want to start with what I currently have in the printer as of the update that was supplied. That or if so...

Yes I have tried to manually straighten it. I have loosened it several times while getting it leveled with the left nozzle and the Y axis shift stays the same. Screw on the front is tight as well as the set screw behind the fan. However I am not fond of forcing it any more to get that small of a dif...