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You can remove the servo motor that controls it, and adjust the height of nozzle. Might work.

Same thing with me, i got two of the Pro-2s and i sold one and stuck with one that has a broken screen and replacement would cost $1000, therefore i wont bother, i too decided to buy the CR10 Pro and after TM FW its been doing such a good job for such a cheap printer, I too am thinking of going for ...

I just found out that my printer needs a new extruder board and motion controller board. Another $470 and it is still within the year that I purchased the machine but they only warranty things that actually may fail for 90 days so neither are covered. NICE!!! I have to say I am very disappointed. T...

i can also recommend Arctic TC (temperature controlled) fans. 500 rpm idle. linear speed increase when sensor hits 32C (89.6F) ARCTIC F12 TC ARCTIC F12 PRO TC IDEAL TEMPERATURE CONTROL: The temperature sensor is on a 40 cm cable and can be placed in the warm areas of your computer. This assures tem...

I had half my screen stop responding to touch now all of it does not respond. The price for a new screen is absolutely ABSURD!!!!!! For others that have this ... you prob figured this out already but you can plug in any usb mouse and it works. The screen is rotated so using the mouse can be tricky....

I can ditto for above. I purchased my Pro2+ under the assumption that it was an "Industrial Grade" machine capable of being reliable. I can forgive some things. I can't expect it to be perfect of course. However, it is most certainly not a $6k machine. I have been documenting my experienc...

Nice - should do the trick - so you retapped the block to take the e3D heat break? BTW the blower mode works pretty damn good: https://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=16207#p47051 -john Hi John, Yes i retapped it, i have no idea why Raise have different threads on it except for alignment...

For now i customized the E3D hotend to be shorter and also to fit the Raise heat breaker.

I would advise to stay away from the Pro-2 until they fix the issues people complaining about (check the forums),i too have 2 MK3s and its my best printer and most reliable but the build volume is a little small. i have two Pro-2 and i am currently facing issues with both of them, one of them had a ...

Hi John,

I agree, the mosquito is a better option but i'd rather try using the hardware i have and then once i complete this project then i can move on to something new. I have already shortened the E3D. but i would like to know whats the total weight of the mosquito hotend please.

Correction; 62mm in extended mode.

Here is the new design, the first one worked but wasn't as good and was too long, this basically has a 2mm height adjustments and is only about 45mm from top to bottom of heat sink. The Middle Nut (not yet added a Belleville washer) adjusts nozzle height while side grub screw for alignment. It will ...

i think both look like they are the same diameter but one is worn out from printing.

I agree its too long and the fixture Raise is using isn't the best for this solution,With E3d you really don't need the the last couple of fins as most heat is transferred at the bottom ones. With the Mosquito the other issue might be the way its clamped at the bottom, not very rigid. Lets see what ...

Hi John,

Good Job with the Mosquito mods, nice and simple.

With E3d, you can just machine the top on a lathe to make it fit using Raise mount, but i was thinking something along these lines.

You basically rotate the top brass fitting to adjust the height height.

Either my dimensions are off or the model for the mosquito i downloaded from their site is not correct but in my model they clash or just barely touch, i have to re-check again. Are you using the original Raise Heater cartridges ? do they fit the mosquito or need modification ? What about the screw ...

Curious how you're attaching yours to the nozzle lifting shaft - I basically copied Raise's solution and just clamped onto the existing shaft - not ideal but I didn't want to take the whole lifting mechanism apart. BTW they just barely clear each other in this configuration - the clearance is bette...

The Mosquito hotend will work but might require more work, i'm just done with R.E the head and investigating.

I think the Mosquito is the better route if you're going to switch to a different hot end entirely - smaller, lighter, shorter and more better. I have the design for the adapter plate if you want it. -john Thats why its important to R.E the complete assembly and then we shall find out which extrude...

when i first clicked that link i couldn't see the duct, only the L&R mounting Plate. I am already working on replacing the hotends with E3D V6 hotend but re-using their heat block. I am just in the process of reverse eng. their extruder 1st, but it's doable. Their nozzle swap is complicated but ...