Official Raise3D Community

I purchased my N2 from someone who had loaded custom firmware to run a Berd-Air fan off the HE2 pin. I had to replace the board and after I updated the firmware now the Berd-Air isn't working. I found the settings I need to change in pins_RUMBA.h but I need advice on the basic steps of compiling and...

As a novice, what's the difference between plus and Max. The Max is a much tougher material. PolyMax™ PLA has an impact resistance of up to nine times that of regular PLA, and better overall mechanical properties than ABS What makes a good PLA good ? Consistent diameter across the entire spool, low...

Yes, it's obscenely expensive. I just bought a spool from Amazon and was shocked when I realized it was only 375g; I assumed (yeah, yeah) that it'd be at least 600-750g. It sure does extrude beautifully, though, albeit with a bit of shrinkage. Doesn't seem to adhere to glue stick, either. Great pot...

Why are you running the pla from raise so high. I've been running mine at 205c and bed temp at 40c. Seems to be ok. Your bed temp seems high, from what I understand, pla needs to cool down and maybe bed temp of 65c is causing a problem ? I run PLA at 210c and bed temp at 60c with no problems. Those...

Cleaning / capturing dust is a secondary purpose of an oiler. The main purpose is to lubricate the nozzle to prevent clogs. I have mixed feelings about oiling. I'd rather not introduce oil into my system if possible, but with clog-prone filament, I have found that a drop of oil at the beginning of t...

I've used PolyPlus, it's basically a premium PLA with settings similar to RAISE3D PLA.
If you want to step up to something even better, their PolyMax is really good.

Even when the nozzles are perfectly aligned vertically, the offset setting is adjusted perfectly, and you use a wipe-wall, some oozing from the nozzle that is not in use occurs and there is some contamination between colors. And, even with the nozzles perfectly alighted, there can be some scraping o...

Algix Dura is an interesting new PLA-like material that is heat-resistant to 120ºC without any post-annealing. They're a bit slow in ramping up production so I haven't had a lot of it to test, but preliminary results have been really nice. http://algix3d.com/products/uncategorized/dura-filament/ Al...

So there's nothing I can do about the current PLA I have? Would printing it at a different temp or changing the heated bed's temp make a difference? (Printing at 210C, bed is at 65C As far as your PLA deforming in a hot environment, no, there is nothing you can do about that, that is just a physica...

S3D toolpath is generally more intelligent if not the most intelligent out of all the slicing software. It optimizes the movement and not relying on speed alone to reduce print time. Looking at the 2 files the time difference has mostly to do with more toolpath movements. Speed wise they are simila...

It's interesting, I just took a popular STL, the Eiffel Tower, sized it to 600mm tall and ran it through both IdeaMaker (IM) and S3D using the same settings. S3D is estimating 34 hours and 50 minutes while IM is estimating 67 hours 41 minutes. S3D is estimating 648g of filament while IM is estimatin...

I was referring to what the software predicted. I haven't had time to run the 33 hour print I was referring to and actually time it.

Hi Vicky,
Yes I would very much like to share the stl and gcode both of IdeaMaker and S3D. Let me know how you would like me to do that.

Thanks!
David

MakerGeeks sells a dishwasher safe PLA.
You have to use an Annealable Process to increase Heat Deflection Temperature (HDT). This just means heat treat it in the over for 10 minuutes at 100c, and then it is heat stable - no deformation up to 125c (250f)

http://www.makergeeks.com/disafi.html

I found when I sliced with Simplify3d that I get unwanted layer shifting.

If you want to use Simplify3D with a raft, ticking "Disable Raft Base Layers" will speed up the printing of the raft.
Otherwise, if you don't want or need a raft, then by all means don't use one.

When you raise the speed, you need to raise the hotend temp to compensate. Then you can go faster. But is seems like the firmware acceleration is holding back the speed from what it could be.

Pros: Build quality of the printer is top notch, print quality is best in class, and support is very responsive. Cons: Print times are slow compared to other 3D printers. Expect to do some of your own maintenance and / or troubleshooting procedures, but that is par for the course with all 3D printers.

You don't need a raft or a brim. The raft is used to anchor complex parts that don't stick to the bed well.
The brim is used to anchor corners that might warp and pull away from the bed, usually only needed with ABS.

If you're printing with PLA and it's a flat part, you don't need either.

Yes I read in another thread that acceleration settings are in the firmware and are already quite low.

So now I have both an N1 and N2 Plus and I'm running a large print on the N2 Plus, but the print times in IdeaMaker seem much longer than they should be, compared to my other printers using Simplify3D slicer software. For instance, if I run the print using IdeaMaker the print takes 33 hours. If I ru...