detroitus wrote:Running into a bit of an issue. I just installed an E3D-V6 hot end on my N2 and am now having trouble maintaining proper nozzle temperature. My install consists of the following:
- cold end adapter
- E3D titanium heat break
- Capricorn PTFE filament guide tube
- E3D copper heater block
- E3D Type 24V 30W heater cartridge
- E3D Type K thermocouple cartridge
- E3D 0.4mm copper nozzle
- E3D silicone sock
I'm convinced that the temperature at the hot end is just much higher than it is supposed to be, but I'm not sure how to fix that. Is it possible that I just did the PID autotune incorrectly or something?
When you used the E3D thermocouple, did you use the whole wire length or shorten it? You can shorten it and I highly recommend that. In addition, I also recommend using heatshrink over even the individual wires at the screw terminal junction because the fiberglass woven insulation can and will unravel and could lead to a short.
Second part is, did you also install a Raise 3D N series thermal protection board or do the safety mod?
The reason I ask is:
#1 The thermocouple system is extremely accurate from even 2 totally different thermocouples provided they are proper K-type. In fact, that's the entire point of using such an off the shelf chip like the AD597 thermocouple amplifier, it is self calibrating (part of it's power on sequence) and uses it's own temperature measurement to know the cold end (screw terminal junction). Again, it doesn't matter if the wire is 2 inches or 10 feet, as long as it's K-type thermocouple wire, with no junctions or connectors other than the screw terminals, and the screw terminals are near the AD597 IC (part of the extruder breakout board design), then as a system, this should net a plus or minus no more than 4C between any 2 printers. That's right from the datasheet. http://www.analog.com/media/en/technica ... 96_597.pdf
#2 the problem is- if the ribbon cable breaks or is intermittent connection and there is no safety board installed in the printer between the mainboard and the ribbon cable, then that printer has no idea if and when it is seeing valid temperature updates from the thermocouple amplifier. Given you had to mess with the wiring to install the hotend and other modifications, it's highly likely to have messed with the ribbon cable in the process. That can either lead to it coming unplugged because it's not a locking connector or breaking a wire from flexing and bending. This absolutely can and will cause thermal runaway and errant temperature if no safety modification is installed.