Printing Ninjatek Armadillo

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Fresemannen
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 1:08 pm

Printing Ninjatek Armadillo

Postby Fresemannen » Mon Sep 03, 2018 11:25 am

Hi,


I have problems with ninjateks Armadillo filament.
after about 20-40 minutes the feeder starts jamming. And I have to stop it, unload and start over again.
I use temp range from 220-230c, speed around 25mm/s. 45C on the bed. tried retraction from 1.5-5. (same results)

I have the N2 plus printer.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Kind Regards
Fresemannen.

Jetguy
Posts: 2696
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:40 am
Location: In a van, down by the river

Re: Printing Ninjatek Armadillo

Postby Jetguy » Wed Sep 05, 2018 1:59 pm

Well, as you probably know, any flexible filament is a challenge in 3D printers. This is because we push the filament into the hotend with a set of gripping gears and if that filament flexes, then it binds against the walls of the feedpath and very little force actually makes it into pushing down into the nozzle. We also have a couple of less than optimal design aspects of the stock N series, and being honest, I've yet to see technical details that say these concerns are addressed in the pro2 series.

Point being, you generally have to get your hands dirty, and be prepared for minor to major mods on most printers to get them to reliably print flex materials. That's just the facts and circumstances of the material.

So, we begin with previous documentation of this issue in the N series.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4841&p=28580&hilit=ninjaflex+gap#p28580
The point being, there is a small but known gap in the feedpath, and the bet is, this is actually where your are jamming.
extruder cross section.jpg
extruder cross section.jpg (46.45 KiB) Viewed 177 times


The second part of this is, the stock feeder, sorry, there is a reason they went to upgrades over this from what shipped stock.
There are stages of upgrade and what you are willing to do to make a better feeder.
The first step is just properly adjusting your feeder to better grip the filament by adjusting the gear to the V-groove bearing distance, either by just moving the motor or by shimming to further angle the motor shaft and give even more "bite".
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=8497&p=31049&hilit=paper+shim#p31049
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8431&p=30796

Beyond that basic step, stage 2 says replace the non sharp tooth factory drive gear with a much sharper aftermarket version.
This is by far the cheapest and simplest upgrade and makes a huge difference for all filament and works better than stock ever could.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6193&p=24902&hilit=sharp+tooth#p24902

Beyond that, you have to eliminate the gaps and less than ideal aspects of the feedpath, and the best known option for that is the E3D V6 hotend change and then use Capricorn tubing to make a perfectly smooth and slick path from a Bondtech upgrade feeder.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4841&p=28580&hilit=ninjaflex+gap#p28586
Also, a new E3D copper nozzle goes a long way to just making this one of the fastest printing Ninjaflex mods I know of. There is only one feeder and hotend that claims to be better, but is not really compatible with the Raise 3D printer just quite yet. https://flexionextruder.com/shop/single/

Jetguy
Posts: 2696
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:40 am
Location: In a van, down by the river

Re: Printing Ninjatek Armadillo

Postby Jetguy » Wed Sep 05, 2018 2:03 pm

Again, sorry, you posted your question in settings, and I want to be up front and honest with you, no magical setting in software is going to make Ninjaflex not jam in your system.

Yes, you can print slower, use settings that minimize retraction and slow everything down especially infill and that overall puts less pressure on the system and less buckling of the filament, and thus lesser chance of a jam- but slow printing at less than 30mm/s might drive your print even longer and still is by no means any guarantee you will print without jamming.

EldRick
Posts: 318
Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2017 5:55 am

Re: Printing Ninjatek Armadillo

Postby EldRick » Thu Sep 06, 2018 5:02 pm

Don't overlook better hot-end cooling. These extruder fan shrouds work better than OEM by moving more air through the cooling fins: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3001130

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jetdillo
Posts: 126
Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2017 5:10 am

Re: Printing Ninjatek Armadillo

Postby jetdillo » Tue Sep 18, 2018 12:50 pm

Fresemannen wrote:Hi,


I have problems with ninjateks Armadillo filament.
after about 20-40 minutes the feeder starts jamming. And I have to stop it, unload and start over again.
I use temp range from 220-230c, speed around 25mm/s. 45C on the bed. tried retraction from 1.5-5. (same results)

I have the N2 plus printer.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Kind Regards
Fresemannen.


Have you noticed where it fails in the print ? 20-40 minutes sounds like it could still be doing the base layers. Maybe your Z-height needs to be adjusted a bit ? If the nozzle is too close to the bed, it could be stuck in the filament and getting plugged up as it starts to print out the lower layer(s). I've run into this before when trying to print things like PETG, TPU, TPE, etc.
Are you using the standard feeder/extruder system or a BondTech ?
Have you noticed any "chewing" marks on the filament when you unload ?
HTH,
Jetdillo

User avatar
jetdillo
Posts: 126
Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2017 5:10 am

Re: Printing Ninjatek Armadillo

Postby jetdillo » Tue Sep 18, 2018 12:52 pm

Jetguy wrote:Well, as you probably know, any flexible filament is a challenge in 3D printers. This is because we push the filament into the hotend with a set of gripping gears and if that filament flexes, then it binds against the walls of the feedpath and very little force actually makes it into pushing down into the nozzle. We also have a couple of less than optimal design aspects of the stock N series, and being honest, I've yet to see technical details that say these concerns are addressed in the pro2 series./


Yes, but, Armadillo is the stiff/rigid filament that Ninjatek sells, unlike most of the rest of their line:
https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/armadillo/

So I think the usual issues users tend to experience around flexible filaments might not apply here.


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