Help dialing in settings

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tech108
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2018 1:12 am

Help dialing in settings

Postby tech108 » Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:06 pm

I'm new to 3D printing and trying to get settings dialed in. I have an N2 Plus and have been using the PLA that came with the printer. I tried default settings, turned extruder temp up, turned build plate up, reduced flow by 4%, then I tried these settings posted by Kazzar13 in another topic...

For PLA I use 210 nozzle, 62 bed, 45mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer height, 0.16mm first layer (thanks Jetguy et al https://3dprinterwiki.info/tips/first-layer-settings/ 1.0mm retraction at 40mm/s


And I'm just not getting acceptable prints.

The top turned out ok for this frog but the underside looks awful.

Image

Image

The supports for this failed from the start but I let it go since they weren't really necessary for this model. It started pealing up from the build plate (glass with glue stick @62c) after a while. Also, right at the boundry between the fill and the wall you can see buildup (flow reduced to 90%).

Image

And I woke up this morning to this mess. But I have a feeling this was caused by the strings from the failed supports getting stuck in the motors.

Image

So I guess my question is, where do I even start to address these issues?

Jetguy
Posts: 2700
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:40 am
Location: In a van, down by the river

Re: Help dialing in settings

Postby Jetguy » Tue Apr 03, 2018 12:54 pm

Let's address the first thing on the frog which is the underside is called overhang. Why overhang? Because you have a sloped surface hanging out in space with nothing but air underneath to try and print. It overhangs opens space. The frog was modeled with a slope and angle that if and only if extruder temperature and sufficient layer cooling is provided, the hot plastic as it comes out of the nozzle cools and becomes solid before gravity can pull it down.

Some known things here specific to your printer.
#1 A dual extruder version of the N series printers only has the hotend cooling fans and a shared duct that splits the air to provide some layer cooling effect. As such, you do not have as good of layer cooling and thus overhang performance (the angle at which you can print an overhang before it fails and you get droopy layers). This is why there are dozens of 3D printed cooling ducts by the DIY community to add a layer cooling fan to the dual extruder models of this printer.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1134&p=10393&hilit=adding+cooling+fan#p10393


#2 lowering extrusion temp and printing a specific test object to properly tune for best overhang performance.
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ov ... 3787a0ebde

Simplify 3D has an excellent pictorial guide and suggestions that are universal even if you do not use their software.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/

This is probably the best guide specific to "overhang" and repeats much of what I have said
https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-pri ... he-45-rule

tech108
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2018 1:12 am

Re: Help dialing in settings

Postby tech108 » Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:39 pm

Jetguy wrote:Let's address the first thing on the frog which is the underside is called overhang. Why overhang? Because you have a sloped surface hanging out in space with nothing but air underneath to try and print. It overhangs opens space. The frog was modeled with a slope and angle that if and only if extruder temperature and sufficient layer cooling is provided, the hot plastic as it comes out of the nozzle cools and becomes solid before gravity can pull it down.

Some known things here specific to your printer.
#1 A dual extruder version of the N series printers only has the hotend cooling fans and a shared duct that splits the air to provide some layer cooling effect. As such, you do not have as good of layer cooling and thus overhang performance (the angle at which you can print an overhang before it fails and you get droopy layers). This is why there are dozens of 3D printed cooling ducts by the DIY community to add a layer cooling fan to the dual extruder models of this printer.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1134&p=10393&hilit=adding+cooling+fan#p10393


#2 lowering extrusion temp and printing a specific test object to properly tune for best overhang performance.
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ov ... 3787a0ebde

Simplify 3D has an excellent pictorial guide and suggestions that are universal even if you do not use their software.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/

This is probably the best guide specific to "overhang" and repeats much of what I have said
https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-pri ... he-45-rule


Thank you! That gives me a great place to start. I'll be back with updates.

DS2017
Posts: 80
Joined: Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:00 pm
Location: San Diego

Re: Help dialing in settings

Postby DS2017 » Tue Apr 03, 2018 4:34 pm

If you are new to 3d printing, start with simpler objects, like xyz calibration cubes from thingiverse.
They are small and fast and so you can quickly iterate prints to troubleshoot issues.

That frog print is actually pretty nice.
Poor surface finish on supports/angled overhangs are common.
Especially if its dual extruding for a model like the frog.
Try lowering print speed on the shell.

As for the octopus, it's laying down a small gap of infill due to a sloped surface.
Try reducing that speed (I cant recall which one if would be, general infill or top&bottom infill speed).

Also, try other filament brands.
There are some users here that got better results from changing brands.
Try hatchbox white PLA. It's one of the easiest PLA I've worked with very low minimum temp (180).

tech108
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2018 1:12 am

Re: Help dialing in settings

Postby tech108 » Sun Apr 08, 2018 5:29 pm

I'm in the process of making some modifications to the printer. I've switched over to ABS for these prints. I noticed while putting down the first layer, the plastic wasn't touching the build plate as it was being extruded at the edges but was so close at the center it wasn't coming out at all. I went out and bought myself a dial depth gauge to help adjust the build plate to level. I spent a while getting everything perfect. After I set the Z axis home position with the feeler gauge that came with the printer, I covered the build plate with glue stick and tried again...

It failed pretty much immediately. I restarted and watched closely. The exact same thing was happening as before. It was like I never leveled it. Also, the print started in the same spot I calibrated at but when it started extruding, it was probably 2mm off the build plate. I checked the Z home position several times and turned the first layer height all the way down. It still would end up almost touching the build plate towards the center. Is the whole thing warping as it gets hotter? What is going on here?

I feel like once I get this working like it should it'll be amazing, but it's proving to be much more time consuming than I anticipated just to get up and running.

EDIT: I should also note, I'm using ABS to print cooling mods to try and solve my original problem which is when I discovered the build plate isn't level.


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