Successful ASA Settings

Share your successful printing settings with others here. If you have any question about the parameters or printing skills of some filament, please find here.
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2018 1:44 am

Successful ASA Settings

Postby Utahfab » Thu Mar 08, 2018 4:56 am

Successful print with ASA. Initially had problems printing on the BUILDTAK and getting it to stick then it stuck too well. Last try, just right.

1st try - Print head temp - 250, print surface 110 - Raft with a brim. The part started warping probably 2 hours into an 11 hour print.

2nd try - Print head temp - 250, print surface 110 - Raft with a brim. Wiped the BUILDTAK surface very well with Isopropyl Alcohol & adjusted the screw about 1/3 of a turn to squish the first layer a little more. Brought up the build plate to 110 then let the chamber warm for about an hour (this was from other posts as an effort to reduce warping). The print stuck. It really stuck! I thought I was going to break the glass removing it. You could hear the BUILDTAK popping up from the glass as I worked under the part with the blade. I was worried it would break the glass though it finally came off. I also noticed that hot melt had dripped from the build plate where the factory had fixed the connectors as a result of the high chamber temp.

3rd try - Print head temp - 250, print surface 100 - Raft with a brim. Cleaned the build plate then coated it with Airwolf 3D's Wolfbite (original-red label). initial problem is that the instructions say to paint it on a cool build plate. When you do it beads up on the BUILDTAK and you can't get an even coating. Cured that by painting it on as the build plate warmed to 110 (probably painted it on at 55-60 degrees). It dries quickly enough that it doesn't have a chance to bead. Printed and again the part came up almost imediately with what seemed like near zero adhesion.

4th try - Print head temp - 250, print surface 100 - Raft with a brim. Cleaned the build plate then coated it with Airwolf 3D's Wolfbite nano (green label). Same initial problem in that it beads up on a cool BUILDTAK. Again painted it on as the build plate warmed with it drying almost immediately leaving a fairly even white coating. Also, instead of waiting an hour for the chamber to warm I laid a hair dryer on the floor of the printer and closed the door. It warmed up nicely in about 5 minutes (I guessed it was warm with the top cover feeling about as warm as the first print). I also put spacers on one side of the lid to hold it up about 1/2" to keep it from getting too hot inside. This time the print stuck solid and printed perfectly. Once everything cooled I put the build plate/part in the sink and ran water over it for 5-10 minutes. Still stuck well though it popped off without anywhere near the force required on the 2nd print.

Hope this helps as ASA actually prints well and it lets you print parts you can use outside without worrying about them degrading so quickly in the sun.


Vice Chief
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Re: Successful ASA Settings

Postby Vice Chief » Sun May 13, 2018 5:12 am

Thanks for posting this. I've had as many fails with ASA as I've had failures.

Where do you get your ASA?

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Location: Essex, UK

Re: Successful ASA Settings

Postby tja » Sun May 27, 2018 9:39 pm

I have had success printing ASA directly onto glass. I need to add a little ASA slurry by put a few drops of acetone on the glass and rubbing a spoiled ASA print in it to make a thin layer. This is best done on cold glass.

I find that ASA sticks pretty well and releases quite easily without force when the plate has cooled down. It does seem to remove the ASA slurry where the print was in contact, so you have to re-slurry fairly often

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Re: Successful ASA Settings

Postby jetdillo » Tue Jun 05, 2018 1:18 pm

Thanks for all of this.
I have an ASA project coming up.
Would you all say that "ASA Juice" is required as much as "ABS Juice" is for printing ABS ?

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Re: Successful ASA Settings

Postby hentjmen » Tue Jun 12, 2018 11:24 am

Nice print! Can you post your settings? Thanks

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