PETG Settings

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Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Sat Feb 17, 2018 9:32 am

Thanks zemlin I will give PEI a try next week.

Anyways all’s printing problems with PETG are now gone.
But when I try to print a larger model with supports, the small parts of the supports want stick to the bed.

The 3D bench sticks very well and first layers looks nice.

My settings so far
220C
75C Bed
First layer speed 10mm/s
First layer flowrate 97%
Flow rate 95%
Retract material amount 2.5mm
Infilll speed 50mm/s

Any suggestions one how to get small details in the support to stick? The support is printed at 4mm, should I try bigger supports? Or could the retract amount be to big when traveling fast to small details?
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Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Sat Feb 17, 2018 12:14 pm

Do anyone have feedback on this first layer?
70614544-E543-4FA1-88F3-E303AADE24FC.jpeg


Thanks
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Julia Truchsess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Julia Truchsess » Sat Feb 17, 2018 3:06 pm

I print Edge PETG from SpoolWorks on PEI, using Raise PLA profiles, 230-240º extrusion, and 80ºC bed. Works perfectly every time.

Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Sat Feb 17, 2018 4:16 pm

Thanks Julia. The part is printing fine now and stick very well on bed. Parts of the support structures does not stick to bed is now the problem.
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Julia Truchsess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Julia Truchsess » Sat Feb 17, 2018 4:42 pm

I guess you're not using a raft. Supports have very little "footprint" surface area for sticking to the bed. They will adhere much better to a raft, where they will actually be welded to it.

Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Sat Feb 17, 2018 4:47 pm

Yep no rafts. But I’m printing with raft now to see how it goes. Thanks ;-)
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Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Sun Feb 18, 2018 1:35 pm

This is so frustrating. The raft sticks very well. But offer a few layers the part lifted from the raft in one corner making the it a failed print. This filament seems quite hard to get right.

So i am back to printing benchys. I have some oozing on the nozzle when printing the details in the inner shell. The infill was also very weak and messy until I turned the speed down to 20mm/s.

I also tried .25 vs 15 layers on a the 20mm calibration box.

6F0A7716-0070-4749-8159-4E54652E0B88.jpeg


I also did a retract test that turned out quite well.
4F5DCB76-90CE-46AA-A92B-D658AE2C663F.jpeg
4F5DCB76-90CE-46AA-A92B-D658AE2C663F.jpeg (28.74 KiB) Viewed 815 times


So my problems now are some nozzle oozing that’s are causing zitz along the body.

This is how the first layer look with raft (quite ugly)
image.jpg


Doesn’t anyone have a suggestion on which settings to tune? ;-)
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ABH
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby ABH » Sun Feb 18, 2018 2:26 pm

I think those "zits" have nothing to do with oozing. It seems to be extrusion line start/stop points. You can collect those at a certain corner of your model by setting "Layer Start Point Type" (ideaMaker) or "Choose start point closest to specific location" (Simplify3D).
You can also try to reduce them by using "Coasting Distance" (ideaMaker) or "Coast at End" (Simplify3D), or even better, use the LIN_ADVANCE feature of the newer Motion Controller firmware.

Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:35 pm

I am now running on a PEI sheet. succeeded with a good print after tuning it once again. No strings, No Nozzle oozing. :-)
IMG_1875.jpg


Moving on to print a quite big part it ones again failed. I lifted from the bed in one corner.
so I began to investigate. I was running this print at 80C but the temperature on the bed was not near 80C. It was around 60C So cold that I can hold my hand on it without any problems
IMG_1880.jpg

IMG_1884.jpg


Excuse my gauge, but that's all I had at the moment.
So running 100C on the tune menu gave me around 70C
IMG_1882.jpg

IMG_1883.jpg


Should you always count on such a large loss of heat that you simply can not rely on what you have in your settings?

So went on trying a bed adhesion test with 100C on 4mm cylinder, 100mm tall and it sticked throughout the print. Should I even go higher then 100C if the cylinder came of easy? (cylinder pic in separate post due the limit.)
Last edited by Raess on Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:39 pm

IMG_1885.jpg
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Squenz
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Squenz » Tue Feb 20, 2018 10:01 pm

Two thumbs up, that is impressive !!

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Michael.P@Raise3D
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Michael.P@Raise3D » Wed Feb 21, 2018 12:57 am

There will be loss of head from a transfer from the heating plate to the glass and in my experience with my PEI plate at home I loose about an additional 5c because of it. If you still encounter issues with the part lifting from the raft you may want to adjust the raft gap from model setting in the advanced profile settings. You will find it under: Template>Edit>Advanced Settings> Platform Adhesion> Raft gap from model.
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Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Wed Feb 21, 2018 5:07 am

Thanks! of course, I counted on heat loss. but a 30Cdifference is a qute big one. I assumed you compensated for heat lost during heat transfer when the printer is shipped with glass plate and Buildtak. Making it more correct then this. (I will try to heat up an Glass + buildtak to see the difference)
Anyways it should be good to add this as an adjustment settings on the printer. Making it possible to actually reach the promised "actual limits" for the heat bed. Is the limit 110C now? then I means I only can get it up to an actual 75C-80C temperature before reaching the limit.

Yes I have tried Raft model gap. but I will do some more tests now when I found the temperature difference. :)
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Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Wed Feb 21, 2018 6:35 pm

So I gave raft another chance. It look Good until the part lifted from the raft in one corner.

The part is looking quite good with this settings and it’s rock solid. I must say that PTEG seems very strong
80FF9BD0-FA5C-4FCD-ADCF-BCAAA5ED60CA.jpeg


So I redesign the part that I was trying to print and was able to remove all needs of support for it (saved me 10h in print time.) now I have started the print again without rafts or support. I set the printer to 100C (actually 80C real temp) and I am crossing my fingers this holds to the bed. We will see in 45h ;-)
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zemlin
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby zemlin » Wed Feb 21, 2018 6:41 pm

I scuff my PEI sheet with 1500 grit paper on an orbital sander to give it just a touch more bite (don't go coarser). I have my bed temp set to 85C when running PETG.

Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Wed Feb 21, 2018 8:01 pm

Thanks for the tip :-) 85C on settings or actual temp on plate?
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zemlin
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby zemlin » Wed Feb 21, 2018 9:23 pm

Raess wrote:Thanks for the tip :-) 85C on settings or actual temp on plate?

Settings.

Raess
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Raess » Thu Feb 22, 2018 5:40 am

It ones again failed. It’s started to lift in one corner. What can be wrong this time? Should I print with brim?
9C2A2472-ADEC-47B9-8D38-85195FB9C8BB.jpeg

29626314-176D-4D1D-A3C3-ADE217EDA7B3.jpeg

47975E09-73A3-4328-AA9B-9D2283B2CF61.jpeg
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jetdillo
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby jetdillo » Thu Feb 22, 2018 7:59 am

Raess wrote:It ones again failed. It’s started to lift in one corner. What can be wrong this time? Should I print with brim?


I just about always print with some sort of brim. It helps anchors the part to the bed.

Squenz
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Re: PETG Settings

Postby Squenz » Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:39 am

Raess wrote:It ones again failed. It’s started to lift in one corner. What can be wrong this time? Should I print with brim?
...


If the print always lifts at the same corner, i'd losen the respective bed level set screw just a tiny tad. My N1 uses M6x1.0 pitch screws there, so one full turn changes bed height by one millimeter for the area. A QUARTER turn changes bed height for the area by 0,25 mm, better said, more or less one full layer height.

I print with Brim very often, especially on the BuildTak, it enhances the grip of the print on the surface and the brim works as a lead guide allowing me to get unter the print with the spatual without maring the outer edge of the print. To top the advantages of, a brim evens out flow and pressure in the melting chamber and after it's printed, things are at ready to print the part with everything in check.


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