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Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 5:25 pm
by kazaar13
DS2017 wrote:
kazaar13 wrote:IMG_0315.JPG
IMG_0317.JPG
IMG_0318.JPG

Results of the print cube. As you can see it isn't very smooth. I did not print any shells with the print or a raft.

Attached my slicing settings.


What do you mean no shells?
I think ideamaker defaults to minimum 1 shell.
Try printing with 2 shells. Most people print with at least 2 shells.
Also reduce outershell speed down to 15mm/s

What are your filament settings under Printer > Filament Settings?

Although unlikely, the filament might be old/bad.
Try HatchBox PLA White. It's one of the easiest PLA to work with.

Also attach the gcode file. Not sure what you attached. Cant open it.



I mistyped earlier. I meant I printed without a raft or brim. I am using the default of 2 shells. My outer shell speed is at the default of 25mm/s. I will try reducing it to 15mm/s and see what happens.

Print > Filament Settings:
Diameter 1.750 mm
Density 1240 kg/m3
Price 30.00 $/kg
Flowrate 94%

I was wondering if the filament sent might be the issue. I will buy some hatchbox PLA and see if it improves the results.

I have the STL file of the test print box. Attached inline. One of the prior files was a .zip file of my exported template so all settings would be view-able.
xyzCalibration_cube.stl
(6.72 KiB) Downloaded 26 times


So many settings that can be changed and make an impact I try to only change 1 or 2 at a time each print.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 5:29 pm
by kazaar13
zemlin wrote:
DS2017 wrote:Also attach the gcode file. Not sure what you attached. Cant open it.

It's not GCODE, it's a print settings template from IM. You can import it and see the settings. I didn't see anything out of line. I've printed that red material without issue.

That said, a .1mm layer with a .4mm nozzle can be a bit thin for starting out. Do you get any different results with a .2mm layer, besides cutting the print time in half?

I was testing some nylons last week and they were all stringy at .15mm layers with a .4mm nozzle. .2 printed clean. I would not expect an issue with PLA, but since you're having problems ...


I have been using either standard .15 or HQ .1. I have not tried the Speed .2 much. I was assuming that the higher quality print method might provide a better end result. I will print the XYZ cube again at .2 and slow down the outshell speed to 15mm/s and see if it improves.

I am hoping it might just be PLA and not a printer defect. I know when printing complex objects it could be tough, but even simple objects are not clean.

I appreciate everyone's assistance in helping me figure this out. I even tried using Cura and the slicing software did not appear to make a difference. In my mind it should not, but it was worth a try.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 5:48 pm
by DS2017
Oh sorry I didn't know the initial attachment was supposed to be imported.

I checked the preview of your imported settings and I'm getting much more bad preview, not sure if this contributes to bad prints:

Capture1.PNG

Capture2.PNG


First is with your imported settings.
Second are my own settings.

Not sure if the import affects this or not. Check your preview and see if there are similar glitches in the preview.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 6:04 pm
by DS2017
Also are you using the newest IM and updated printer firmware?

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:31 pm
by kazaar13
DS2017 wrote:Also are you using the newest IM and updated printer firmware?


IM 3.1.0.1545 and software states it is up to date.
Firmware 1.1.1 Not sure if this is the newest. I will check the site for updated firmware.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:35 pm
by kazaar13
DS2017 wrote:Oh sorry I didn't know the initial attachment was supposed to be imported.

I checked the preview of your imported settings and I'm getting much more bad preview, not sure if this contributes to bad prints:




First is with your imported settings.
Second are my own settings.

Not sure if the import affects this or not. Check your preview and see if there are similar glitches in the preview.


Your version looks much cleaner. I downloaded the file form a previous user post. Running preview it does not look as clean as your version. The object doesn't show errors if I run an auto correct. How did you clean your image file up further?

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:37 pm
by kazaar13
zemlin wrote:
DS2017 wrote:Also attach the gcode file. Not sure what you attached. Cant open it.

It's not GCODE, it's a print settings template from IM. You can import it and see the settings. I didn't see anything out of line. I've printed that red material without issue.

That said, a .1mm layer with a .4mm nozzle can be a bit thin for starting out. Do you get any different results with a .2mm layer, besides cutting the print time in half?

I was testing some nylons last week and they were all stringy at .15mm layers with a .4mm nozzle. .2 printed clean. I would not expect an issue with PLA, but since you're having problems ...


I printed at .2 and the print is much cleaner then the previous attempts. Screenshots below of the finished print.

IMG_0323.jpg

IMG_0325.jpg


I also ordered a spool of Hatchbox Black and it will be a couple days before it gets here. I will try swapping filament once it arrives.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:57 pm
by kazaar13
DS2017 wrote:Also are you using the newest IM and updated printer firmware?


I am using the newest now. After checking the website the software and firmware were quite a few revisions out of date. I have updated them all successfully and will try the XYZ brick again before moving on to other items.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 8:38 pm
by DS2017
They look better but still bad.

Turn off Coasting under Retraction settings.
Set it to 0.
This will improve your print (and fixes Preview image).

Also set Minimal Layer Print Time to default 15seconds.

When you start over a template from scratch make sure you Restore Defaults in the settings.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:33 pm
by kazaar13
DS2017 wrote:They look better but still bad.

Turn off Coasting under Retraction settings.
Set it to 0.
This will improve your print (and fixes Preview image).

Also set Minimal Layer Print Time to default 15seconds.

When you start over a template from scratch make sure you Restore Defaults in the settings.


Restored my speed template to default settings and once this next job is done I will print again. May be awhile before I can post an updated picture tonight.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 10:49 pm
by kazaar13
I believe I have the issues resolved now. Three successful prints in a row and much cleaner. I am also using the default settings with only a couple of changes.

Changes made:
1. Purchased Hatchbox PLA. The print is smooth and easily removes from the bed. Barely any pressure is required and no tools are required.

2. Changed the Bed temp to 70 for PLA to get reliable adhesion to the print bed.

3. Hatchbox filament is printing well and 190.

4. Printing at Layer height .2mm

5. Removed the cover from the top of the printer. This mainly needs to be used for ABS, and did not realize it could be an issue with PLA. I had a print stop halfway and no longer print. Checking the filament it would extrude without issue. Based on other searches the only item left I could not account for was the drive train over heating. Removing the top lid allowed the air to rise outside of the build area and multiple successful prints in a row.

Thank you everyone for your help in getting to a place to print. Now I feel more comfortable trying a 6+ hour print.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2018 3:43 pm
by NewbPilot
kazaar13 wrote:I believe I have the issues resolved now. Three successful prints in a row and much cleaner. I am also using the default settings with only a couple of changes.

Changes made:
1. Purchased Hatchbox PLA. The print is smooth and easily removes from the bed. Barely any pressure is required and no tools are required.

2. Changed the Bed temp to 70 for PLA to get reliable adhesion to the print bed.

3. Hatchbox filament is printing well and 190.

4. Printing at Layer height .2mm

5. Removed the cover from the top of the printer. This mainly needs to be used for ABS, and did not realize it could be an issue with PLA. I had a print stop halfway and no longer print. Checking the filament it would extrude without issue. Based on other searches the only item left I could not account for was the drive train over heating. Removing the top lid allowed the air to rise outside of the build area and multiple successful prints in a row.

Thank you everyone for your help in getting to a place to print. Now I feel more comfortable trying a 6+ hour print.


Glad to hear things are going well. YOu had a lot of good advice from a lot of people. Few more things that may have been said - or maybe not.

1 - Raise3D PLA is awesome. I use it all the time. It's probably some of the easiest I've worked with.
2 - i use the exact same settings for Raise3D PLA that I do for eSun PLA that I do for ProtoPasta PLA that i do for 3DFuel PLA that i do for MatterHackers PLA that I do for Hatchbox PLA that I do for ... probably 3 more brands I am forgetting.
3 - For PLA I use 210 nozzle, 62 bed, 45mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer height, 0.16mm first layer (thanks Jetguy et al https://3dprinterwiki.info/tips/first-layer-settings/ 1.0mm retraction at 40mm/s
4 - i peel Buildtak off of any printer i bought (i have a N2 and an N1 and a Wanhao Duplicator i3) and use Hairspray on the glass bed
5 - i let the bed cool to ROOM TEMPERATURE before i try to pull the part off the bed. ALWAYS.
6 - i never use a raft. Ok, I used a raft once, but that was because the end of the part was really small and it was a high vertical print and the raft gave it a better footing.
7 - I know everyone believes that PLA should be printed cooler, and I'm not saying they're wrong. I'm saying I have crazy good success at 210 for all of the brands listed above at the settings above.

All of the attached photos are done with the above settings. THe Glitter and Red print-in-place bearings are ProtoPasta, the Univ of Miami logo is a mix of eSun and 3dFuel
IMG_1108.jpg


IMG_1101.jpg


IMG_1068.jpg


IMG_1037.jpg


IMG_1036.jpg


Keep up the good work. The people are are AMAZING resources.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2018 5:19 pm
by kazaar13
NewbPilot wrote:
kazaar13 wrote:I believe I have the issues resolved now. Three successful prints in a row and much cleaner. I am also using the default settings with only a couple of changes.

Changes made:
1. Purchased Hatchbox PLA. The print is smooth and easily removes from the bed. Barely any pressure is required and no tools are required.

2. Changed the Bed temp to 70 for PLA to get reliable adhesion to the print bed.

3. Hatchbox filament is printing well and 190.

4. Printing at Layer height .2mm

5. Removed the cover from the top of the printer. This mainly needs to be used for ABS, and did not realize it could be an issue with PLA. I had a print stop halfway and no longer print. Checking the filament it would extrude without issue. Based on other searches the only item left I could not account for was the drive train over heating. Removing the top lid allowed the air to rise outside of the build area and multiple successful prints in a row.

Thank you everyone for your help in getting to a place to print. Now I feel more comfortable trying a 6+ hour print.


Glad to hear things are going well. YOu had a lot of good advice from a lot of people. Few more things that may have been said - or maybe not.

1 - Raise3D PLA is awesome. I use it all the time. It's probably some of the easiest I've worked with.
2 - i use the exact same settings for Raise3D PLA that I do for eSun PLA that I do for ProtoPasta PLA that i do for 3DFuel PLA that i do for MatterHackers PLA that I do for Hatchbox PLA that I do for ... probably 3 more brands I am forgetting.
3 - For PLA I use 210 nozzle, 62 bed, 45mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer height, 0.16mm first layer (thanks Jetguy et al https://3dprinterwiki.info/tips/first-layer-settings/ 1.0mm retraction at 40mm/s
4 - i peel Buildtak off of any printer i bought (i have a N2 and an N1 and a Wanhao Duplicator i3) and use Hairspray on the glass bed
5 - i let the bed cool to ROOM TEMPERATURE before i try to pull the part off the bed. ALWAYS.
6 - i never use a raft. Ok, I used a raft once, but that was because the end of the part was really small and it was a high vertical print and the raft gave it a better footing.
7 - I know everyone believes that PLA should be printed cooler, and I'm not saying they're wrong. I'm saying I have crazy good success at 210 for all of the brands listed above at the settings above.

All of the attached photos are done with the above settings. THe Glitter and Red print-in-place bearings are ProtoPasta, the Univ of Miami logo is a mix of eSun and 3dFuel
IMG_1108.jpg


IMG_1101.jpg


IMG_1068.jpg


IMG_1037.jpg


IMG_1036.jpg


Keep up the good work. The people are are AMAZING resources.


Since my last post the success/failure ratio is still a little to far into the failure side. Bed Adhesion is one of the biggest issues. I have checked the level of all four corners, center and sides and my printer is level. The have scratched the buildtak in a spot or two and just don't print in those areas now. The PLA was sticking like superglue when it did stick.

The Hatchbox does come off the buildtak much easier. I may try out the buildtak removal, but will leave it for the moment. I will also try a temperature test with your settings and see how well it works. Sometimes the print doesn't stick or I come back with a huge mess assembled to the nozzle. Which I then have to clean.

The Bed does cool down to room temp as I wait about 10-15 minutes or more before removing the print.

The prints you posted looks great. I will try some these new temps and layer settings to see if I get better bed adhesion. Hopfully I can have multiple successes before I start a 20+ hour print. Right now I would not feel comfortable starting a print that big. I would prefer not to use a raft. I do have some difficulty getting the raft off the part cleanly.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 12:07 pm
by bfwalach
NewbPilot wrote:
kazaar13 wrote:I believe I have the issues resolved now. Three successful prints in a row and much cleaner. I am also using the default settings with only a couple of changes.

Changes made:
1. Purchased Hatchbox PLA. The print is smooth and easily removes from the bed. Barely any pressure is required and no tools are required.

2. Changed the Bed temp to 70 for PLA to get reliable adhesion to the print bed.

3. Hatchbox filament is printing well and 190.

4. Printing at Layer height .2mm

5. Removed the cover from the top of the printer. This mainly needs to be used for ABS, and did not realize it could be an issue with PLA. I had a print stop halfway and no longer print. Checking the filament it would extrude without issue. Based on other searches the only item left I could not account for was the drive train over heating. Removing the top lid allowed the air to rise outside of the build area and multiple successful prints in a row.

Thank you everyone for your help in getting to a place to print. Now I feel more comfortable trying a 6+ hour print.


Glad to hear things are going well. YOu had a lot of good advice from a lot of people. Few more things that may have been said - or maybe not.

1 - Raise3D PLA is awesome. I use it all the time. It's probably some of the easiest I've worked with.
2 - i use the exact same settings for Raise3D PLA that I do for eSun PLA that I do for ProtoPasta PLA that i do for 3DFuel PLA that i do for MatterHackers PLA that I do for Hatchbox PLA that I do for ... probably 3 more brands I am forgetting.
3 - For PLA I use 210 nozzle, 62 bed, 45mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer height, 0.16mm first layer (thanks Jetguy et al https://3dprinterwiki.info/tips/first-layer-settings/ 1.0mm retraction at 40mm/s
4 - i peel Buildtak off of any printer i bought (i have a N2 and an N1 and a Wanhao Duplicator i3) and use Hairspray on the glass bed
5 - i let the bed cool to ROOM TEMPERATURE before i try to pull the part off the bed. ALWAYS.
6 - i never use a raft. Ok, I used a raft once, but that was because the end of the part was really small and it was a high vertical print and the raft gave it a better footing.
7 - I know everyone believes that PLA should be printed cooler, and I'm not saying they're wrong. I'm saying I have crazy good success at 210 for all of the brands listed above at the settings above.

All of the attached photos are done with the above settings. THe Glitter and Red print-in-place bearings are ProtoPasta, the Univ of Miami logo is a mix of eSun and 3dFuel
IMG_20180320_075837.jpg


IMG_20180320_075837.jpg


The attachment IMG_1068.jpg is no longer available


The attachment IMG_1037.jpg is no longer available


The attachment IMG_1036.jpg is no longer available


Keep up the good work. The people are are AMAZING resources.



To sort of respond to both of these comments (and ask a question), here is my most recent print:

IMG_20180320_075837.jpg

IMG_20180320_075909.jpg


Do you recommend:
(1) peeling off the buildtak and trying to go right on the glass without the raft and/or
(2) taking off the cover and printing without it and/or
(3) raising the temp of the bed past what I have it at now (50C)

Any advice would be great!

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 12:25 pm
by kazaar13
To answer your questions from my findings.

Do you recommend:
(1) peeling off the buildtak and trying to go right on the glass without the raft and/or
(2) taking off the cover and printing without it and/or
(3) raising the temp of the bed past what I have it at now (50C)

(1) I am still printing on the buildtak.
(2) Printing with cover off for PLA has greatly improved my success in completing a print job.
(3) I use (62C)

Based on the prior comments I created a template with the following settings and have had 3 successes in a row and 0 failures. I will be printing more today to see if the success continue. That way I will feel more comfortable trying a 10+ hour print. Slicer I use is IdeaMaker.

Layer Height: .2mm
First layer Height .18mm
First layer Speed 15mm/s
Default print speed 45mm/s
Retraction Speed 40mm/s
Retraction amount 1mm
Platform Addition none
Minimal layer print time 15sec
Bed 62c
Extruder 210c

Printer top Off

This is my current working setup.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 2:13 pm
by NewbPilot
bfwalach wrote:
NewbPilot wrote:
kazaar13 wrote:I believe I have the issues resolved now. Three successful prints in a row and much cleaner. I am also using the default settings with only a couple of changes.

Changes made:
1. Purchased Hatchbox PLA. The print is smooth and easily removes from the bed. Barely any pressure is required and no tools are required.

2. Changed the Bed temp to 70 for PLA to get reliable adhesion to the print bed.

3. Hatchbox filament is printing well and 190.

4. Printing at Layer height .2mm

5. Removed the cover from the top of the printer. This mainly needs to be used for ABS, and did not realize it could be an issue with PLA. I had a print stop halfway and no longer print. Checking the filament it would extrude without issue. Based on other searches the only item left I could not account for was the drive train over heating. Removing the top lid allowed the air to rise outside of the build area and multiple successful prints in a row.

Thank you everyone for your help in getting to a place to print. Now I feel more comfortable trying a 6+ hour print.


Glad to hear things are going well. YOu had a lot of good advice from a lot of people. Few more things that may have been said - or maybe not.

1 - Raise3D PLA is awesome. I use it all the time. It's probably some of the easiest I've worked with.
2 - i use the exact same settings for Raise3D PLA that I do for eSun PLA that I do for ProtoPasta PLA that i do for 3DFuel PLA that i do for MatterHackers PLA that I do for Hatchbox PLA that I do for ... probably 3 more brands I am forgetting.
3 - For PLA I use 210 nozzle, 62 bed, 45mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer height, 0.16mm first layer (thanks Jetguy et al https://3dprinterwiki.info/tips/first-layer-settings/ 1.0mm retraction at 40mm/s
4 - i peel Buildtak off of any printer i bought (i have a N2 and an N1 and a Wanhao Duplicator i3) and use Hairspray on the glass bed
5 - i let the bed cool to ROOM TEMPERATURE before i try to pull the part off the bed. ALWAYS.
6 - i never use a raft. Ok, I used a raft once, but that was because the end of the part was really small and it was a high vertical print and the raft gave it a better footing.
7 - I know everyone believes that PLA should be printed cooler, and I'm not saying they're wrong. I'm saying I have crazy good success at 210 for all of the brands listed above at the settings above.

Keep up the good work. The people are are AMAZING resources.



To sort of respond to both of these comments (and ask a question), here is my most recent print:

Do you recommend:
(1) peeling off the buildtak and trying to go right on the glass without the raft and/or
(2) taking off the cover and printing without it and/or
(3) raising the temp of the bed past what I have it at now (50C)

Any advice would be great!


The cover is a dust cover .. JetGuy has said that before. It may be needed to print ABS (I dont print ABS), but it certainly is NEVER on my printer. I've printed a few dozen rolls of PLA, PETG and TPU over the past 2 years, no cover, ever.

This is a personal preference. I love Glass with hairspray. I mentioned before (I think) that i pulled the BuildTak off the second I received my N2 and N1 printers. That said, someone else still uses it and has great success. I feel that it is either TOO good or not good at all. The part sticks like superglue (as you mentioned) and i ruin it, or after a few prints it doesnt stick at all. However, hairspray on glue with over (seriously) 1,000 prints a machine per year, and no problems.

I always use bed at 62 degrees for PLA. I've tested under 60 and over 65 and neither side give GREAT results. However, 62 gives me a perfect result every time. I see you have warping - that may be because of the temp, or it could be because your bed isnt level!! I saw that you wrote the bed IS level ... so im obviously challenging that. Not because i want to be rude ... but because i've had the same issue :) How exactly are you checking the level of the bed? I didnt see if you have the N1 or N2. I had a few problems with my N2. I ultimately called tech support and they walked me through the process of leveling every screw on the N2 bed. It took 2+ hours, but the bed is much better now. My glass is warped, so i just ordered a new one.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 2:15 pm
by NewbPilot
kazaar13 wrote:...

Based on the prior comments I created a template with the following settings and have had 3 successes in a row and 0 failures. I will be printing more today to see if the success continue. That way I will feel more comfortable trying a 10+ hour print. Slicer I use is IdeaMaker.

Layer Height: .2mm
First layer Height .18mm
First layer Speed 15mm/s
Default print speed 45mm/s
Retraction Speed 40mm/s
Retraction amount 1mm
Platform Addition none
Minimal layer print time 15sec
Bed 62c
Extruder 210c

Printer top Off

This is my current working setup.


Great news! I am so happy to hear that you're running full speed ahead! Nothing is more satisfying than when the printer just works :)

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 11:30 am
by kazaar13
NewbPilot wrote:
bfwalach wrote:
NewbPilot wrote:
Glad to hear things are going well. YOu had a lot of good advice from a lot of people. Few more things that may have been said - or maybe not.

1 - Raise3D PLA is awesome. I use it all the time. It's probably some of the easiest I've worked with.
2 - i use the exact same settings for Raise3D PLA that I do for eSun PLA that I do for ProtoPasta PLA that i do for 3DFuel PLA that i do for MatterHackers PLA that I do for Hatchbox PLA that I do for ... probably 3 more brands I am forgetting.
3 - For PLA I use 210 nozzle, 62 bed, 45mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer height, 0.16mm first layer (thanks Jetguy et al https://3dprinterwiki.info/tips/first-layer-settings/ 1.0mm retraction at 40mm/s
4 - i peel Buildtak off of any printer i bought (i have a N2 and an N1 and a Wanhao Duplicator i3) and use Hairspray on the glass bed
5 - i let the bed cool to ROOM TEMPERATURE before i try to pull the part off the bed. ALWAYS.
6 - i never use a raft. Ok, I used a raft once, but that was because the end of the part was really small and it was a high vertical print and the raft gave it a better footing.
7 - I know everyone believes that PLA should be printed cooler, and I'm not saying they're wrong. I'm saying I have crazy good success at 210 for all of the brands listed above at the settings above.

Keep up the good work. The people are are AMAZING resources.



To sort of respond to both of these comments (and ask a question), here is my most recent print:

Do you recommend:
(1) peeling off the buildtak and trying to go right on the glass without the raft and/or
(2) taking off the cover and printing without it and/or
(3) raising the temp of the bed past what I have it at now (50C)

Any advice would be great!


The cover is a dust cover .. JetGuy has said that before. It may be needed to print ABS (I dont print ABS), but it certainly is NEVER on my printer. I've printed a few dozen rolls of PLA, PETG and TPU over the past 2 years, no cover, ever.

This is a personal preference. I love Glass with hairspray. I mentioned before (I think) that i pulled the BuildTak off the second I received my N2 and N1 printers. That said, someone else still uses it and has great success. I feel that it is either TOO good or not good at all. The part sticks like superglue (as you mentioned) and i ruin it, or after a few prints it doesnt stick at all. However, hairspray on glue with over (seriously) 1,000 prints a machine per year, and no problems.

I always use bed at 62 degrees for PLA. I've tested under 60 and over 65 and neither side give GREAT results. However, 62 gives me a perfect result every time. I see you have warping - that may be because of the temp, or it could be because your bed isnt level!! I saw that you wrote the bed IS level ... so im obviously challenging that. Not because i want to be rude ... but because i've had the same issue :) How exactly are you checking the level of the bed? I didnt see if you have the N1 or N2. I had a few problems with my N2. I ultimately called tech support and they walked me through the process of leveling every screw on the N2 bed. It took 2+ hours, but the bed is much better now. My glass is warped, so i just ordered a new one.


I have a N2 printer. I took a small level and placed it in all corners, sides and the center. The level was visually in the same spot in all 9 positions. The settings you provided have been working great for my N2. Thanks a lot. The only failure on any item was a print that needed supports and I didn't add any. Once I added supports I got another clean print. I no longer need to use a raft, skirt or brim.

Now I can start working on some of the 24+ hour prints as I have confidence in then completing successfully.

Re: Cannot get a good print

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 6:11 pm
by NewbPilot
kazaar13 wrote:
I have a N2 printer. I took a small level and placed it in all corners, sides and the center. The level was visually in the same spot in all 9 positions. The settings you provided have been working great for my N2. Thanks a lot. The only failure on any item was a print that needed supports and I didn't add any. Once I added supports I got another clean print. I no longer need to use a raft, skirt or brim.

Now I can start working on some of the 24+ hour prints as I have confidence in then completing successfully.


Absolutely fantastic news. These forums (and the facebook fourms to some extent) have been a life saver for me!