Cannot get a good print

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Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 10:11 pm

Cannot get a good print

Postby kazaar13 » Sun Feb 11, 2018 10:35 pm

I am new to the 3d printing world as a user. I have been reading up on it for a long time. I just recently took the plunge and bought the Raise 3d N2 printer. This was so much larger in size than expected when it showed up.

I validated my Z axis using the measure tool and it is at the correct height.

Issues I have been encountering and no matter the research online I cannot resolve all of them. I have started to print test objects only until I get a clean print as everything else I have tried has ended up in failure.

1. The raft initially would come loose and raising the temp of the bed to 50-60 solved that issue. Now I have a lot of trouble getting the printed object/raft off the print bed once the job is complete. I am using the tools that came with the printer. I even scratched my build plate earlier.

2. Prints do not come out clear. They appear lumpy/droopy and not fine.

3. Current print test has been the 3D Benchy boat.

I use the Ideamaker slicer that came with the system. I have tweaked all settings to reduce/increase speed, increase/decrease extruder temps, layer height (.2 - .06), retraction speed and amount, ZHop, and anything else I could find. I am using the PLA that shipped with the printer too.

The prints below are better than when i started, but they all have issues. Anything else outside of this comes out bad. Even something as simple as a cube.

Image of prints


I have dleeted my custom slicer settings as they have not been working and went back to the three default Raise 3d Hotend 2 templates. I assume that I correctly have the Hotend 2 version of this printer.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really want to start deigning and printing. Also with most solutions stating to slow down the print. What is the benefit of having a printer that can print at 150mm if it is best to print at 50mm or slower?


Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:15 am

Re: Cannot get a good print

Postby DeftCAD » Mon Feb 12, 2018 1:29 pm

This won't cure all your issues, but re. detaching prints... I've been using 3D printers for a few years and have tried a few build surfaces. The one I've settled with is a glass bed and 3DLAC spray. I never use a raft and prints almost never lift. Adhesion with even a modest area touching the bed is so hard that on completion I think I would damage the model before it detached, but after a few minutes cooling they just let go with a satisfying 'click'.

A few thoughts:

1. It sounds like you've done your homework so I'm just asking: if you're new to it are you confident that the bed gap is right? In my experience it needs to be 'just so' with all printers - a little resistance on the feeler gauge, but not a lot. This explanation in itself is vague and hard to quantify... Make sure the feeler gauge is quite flat to the bed as you do it, or friction from the angle will mislead you.
2. Are you allowing the bed to cool before removing the model? I've seen videos of people hacking at models as soon as they finish. In my experience, cool models are harder and as the bed material and build material cool at different rates, they release better. I leave mine probably 10min or more.
3. What sort of environment is the printer in? Ambient temperature? Are the doors open/lid off? I usually run closed doors and the top propped up using a 30cm ruler BUT I'm in the UK, so ambient is almost always <20°c and the printer is in a corner right next to two external walls and a window!
4. Make just one change at a time. I know this is laborious and time consuming, but it's the best way to fault find. On this note, I don't think Benchy is a good model to fault find with: I used to use it, but it takes hours to complete and the more testing features only appear higher up, so you wait ages to see results. See if you can download/model something with features that show lower down to speed up your testing.

Hopefully this is of some help. I don't have a fraction of the tech. knowledge that some of the others on here do, so perhaps others will have more suggestions.

Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 10:11 pm

Re: Cannot get a good print

Postby kazaar13 » Mon Feb 12, 2018 1:53 pm

I usually let the print stay for awhile before trying to get it off the plate. I have tried between immediate at completion through an hour or two. It just seems like the prints end up getting glued to the bed and are very difficult to pry off.

1. I believe the GAP is good. I read the instructions and forums online to find the little tool they give should have a small amount of resistance from the bed. I adjusted the Z axis screw and homed the Z axis multiple times. I placed the tool on the bed and pushed it horizontally beneath the nozzle and there is some resistance as I can feel it against the tool. I wondered what the little thing was for when I unpacked it. I might have it to close and can try increasing the GAP a screw turn and see if that helps.

2. I have tried immediately and also have waited various amounts of time before attempting to remove the model. Minutes to even hours without much difference. Though I have noticed the models are much more sold the longer I wait.

3. My printer is against an outside wall and upstairs. I sit in here comfortably and do not have central heating or air. I just have a small electric heater in the room to take the chill out if it gets cold. The printer itself is contained on all sides and top. I read that heating/cooling issues can make prints fail, so I have left the doors shut and also the top lid on the printer. Should I remove the top cover? That is one thing I have not tried in all the changes.

4. I have been making one change at a time and then printing again. I have done this so many times I think I might be missing something and have now started reaching out for assistance. I have set everything back to default in my software and hardware. That way I have a level starting point again. I have tried multiple test objects. I have also tried a small cube that has 3 small holes that travel the length of the cube. I prints much faster than benchy yet it also has issues with the circle portion that goes through the cube. I have tried the do not cross gaps and all kinds of settings with retractions to make them smooth and round.

I have also tried a bridge test that has two small towers and a non-supported bridge that runs between them. The bridge and towers complete. The bridge on the underside is extremely stringy and not a solid piece as depicted in other final results.

Thank you for your information. I will check my Z GAP and also try removing the lid to see if that helps.

Timber Haint
Posts: 23
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2018 2:24 pm

Re: Cannot get a good print

Postby Timber Haint » Mon Feb 12, 2018 2:09 pm

1) I've found the best settings that work for me with the Raise3d premium PLA (R3DPPLA) are a nozzle of 210 deg. and a bed of 70 deg.. These are the only settings I change on the V2 hotend PLA setting in ideaMaker. When I use these settings with the R3D Prem. PLA I have no issues with prints coming loose and it still gives me good print quality.

Clean your build surface. I'm going to make a post about it later, but go to your local grocery/hardware store and get some AJAX or Comet and give your build surfaces a good cleaning (both the glass and the buildtak) and thorough rinsing. I thoroughly dry it off, put it back in the machine, and let it sit at 100 deg. for about 5 minutes to burn off any residual water. Dust and any extraneous particles will vastly effect your filaments ability to stick. Next to sand/bead blasting (which we're not going to do) it's the best way to clean a surface. It's better than isopropyl alcohol, de-greaser, or acetone. The grit and chemical reaction do an amazing job of cleaning surfaces. This has been proven many times and can be verified by the water sheeting test. You'd be amazed how well filament sticks to a clean glass surface. I will make a new post about this later.

As for removing your prints - as DeftCAD mentioned, letting it completely cool is probably the best way and my prints always come off easily if I let it cool. I don't use the tool that came with the machine. I damaged my buildtak with it and have since switched to a much thinner "putty knife" (it's not a knife). I place it as perpendicular to the bed surface as possible with the edge as close to the intersection of the bed and the piece. I then LIGHTLY tap the back of the putty knife it with a hammer and it pops the piece right off with no damage to the build surface OR the piece. I can post pictures about this tonight if you'd like.

2) For me the R3DPPLA seems to have a little more issues with overhangs than say the Hatchbox PLA. My Hatchbox PLA completely amazes me at it's ability to create overhangs. You can see some in my previous posts. I'd suggest spending a little money and getting some Hatchbox PLA (the green is the only one I've used so far). I'm sure there are some other brands that are just as good, but this one works very well for me.

3) Never printed the benchy boat, but maybe I'll give it a try.

Posts: 132
Joined: Sat Oct 21, 2017 2:02 pm

Re: Cannot get a good print

Postby zemlin » Tue Feb 13, 2018 12:23 am

On top of all the above comments, have patience. I've been at this for 2 years now and I'm still getting better with every step. It's not a plug-n-play process, and it will take time for you to figure out what works best for you.

Also, regarding speed - everything is a trade-off. I sometimes print fast when getting the plastic down is more important than making it pretty - but generally I care about appearance and integrity, so I print slower. My car is capable of hitting 125 MPH (so I've been told). That's not the optimal speed for most of my driving.

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