Problems with PLA

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Corrado
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2017 4:06 pm

Problems with PLA

Postby Corrado » Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:40 pm

Hi,
I'm a new user of a Raise3D N2 Plus (my very first 3D printer).
After some tests without problems (small cubes, ...) I tried to print my first real object, made of 2 pieces:
1.jpg


The filament is the Raise3D PLA that came with the printer.

My settings are the default values from "High quality - N2 Plus - PLA" template:
- Nozzle temp 205°C
- Heatbed temp 40°C

I tried first with piece #1 ... this was the result!
2.JPG


I restarted with same settings and this time it completed with no problems:
3.JPG



I then tried to print piece #2.
Following some suggestions I found on the Internet, I used only brim and removed the top cover (that I learned should be used only with ABS).
I left the same temperatures (205 and 40) because these seem to be the right values for PLA.

First try was no success:
4.JPG


I restarted the printing with raft and brim. After a couple of hours I had to stop it because one corner detached:
5.jpg


I read PLA should be easy to print so probably I'm doing something wrong.
Why the PLA detaches from plate?


Thanks,
Corrado

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Vicky@Raise3D
Posts: 3943
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 3:54 am

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Tue Jan 02, 2018 3:17 am

Seems the bed temperature is little low. Normally the bed temperature for PLA is around 40-65C. Higher temperature can provide better adhesion.
And please recheck the distance between nozzle and build plate when Z is at origin position, especially the model warping point. If too far, the adhesion of the first layer will be poor.

3Dnoob
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2017 7:55 am

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby 3Dnoob » Wed Jan 03, 2018 4:57 pm

If you print with raft the heatbead should be not lower than 40 ° C if you print without raft, the heatbead should be off.

thats my experience.

Corrado
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2017 4:06 pm

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby Corrado » Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:33 pm

I tried with 60°C and the print went well.

Just for my understanding ... as answered by Vicky and 3Dnoob, in the Internet someone say to increase the temperature to 60°C and someone says to turn it off.
For a newbie like me is a little bit confusing ... it depends only on the presence or absence of raft (as 3Dnoob wrote)?

Thx

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jmp
Posts: 211
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 12:20 pm

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby jmp » Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:53 pm

Corrado wrote:I tried with 60°C and the print went well.

Just for my understanding ... as answered by Vicky and 3Dnoob, in the Internet someone say to increase the temperature to 60°C and someone says to turn it off.
For a newbie like me is a little bit confusing ... it depends only on the presence or absence of raft (as 3Dnoob wrote)?

Thx

3D printing can be confusing! As someone who has been printing PLA for 5 years this is my take. Things like buildtak and rafts make it easier for items to stick on the bed so heat may not be as much needed. That being said heat almost always helps (up to 60, over that pla stays mushy) and I would recommend it for any PLA print. Also many adhesion issues have to do with plate leveling (tramming) rather than heat or model issues.
RL Name: Jason Preuss Thingiverse: JMP Youtube:http://youtube.com/c/patterntoprint Website: http://www.patterntoprint.com

Corrado
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2017 4:06 pm

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby Corrado » Thu Jan 04, 2018 3:26 pm

Also many adhesion issues have to do with plate leveling (tramming) rather than heat or model issues.

From Raise3D FAQ: "N2 and N2+ are pre-leveled in the factory. You don’t need to level them".
Being the machine new, I suppose the level is ok.

A question about nozzle height ... the Quick start guide says "0.25 if printing with raft otherwise it depends on layer height".
What does "depends on layer height" means?
The "layer height parameter" in Ideamaker is set to 0.1 ... so what should be the nozzle height if I don't use raft?
Which is the relation between layer height and nozzle height?

The current nozzle height should be 0.25 because I tried with 0.2 thickness gauge tool that came with the printer and I see a little bit of space.

thx

User avatar
Vicky@Raise3D
Posts: 3943
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 3:54 am

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Fri Jan 05, 2018 2:19 am

Nozzle distance is recommended to be set under 0.2mm, which should be a little resistance when passing the feeler gauge between the nozzle and build plate.

Tinkerer
Posts: 176
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2017 8:30 pm
Location: Germany

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby Tinkerer » Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:11 pm

"Being the machine new, I suppose the level is ok."

That might be a little optimistic.

If I were you I would check the level of the bed...
...there's nothing like the smell of fresh ABS in the morning...

Tinkerer
Posts: 176
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2017 8:30 pm
Location: Germany

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby Tinkerer » Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:14 pm

"Nozzle distance is recommended to be set under 0.2mm, which should be a little resistance when passing the feeler gauge between the nozzle and build plate."

...a statement to be included within the Raise3D-Printing-Manual...
...there's nothing like the smell of fresh ABS in the morning...

kencfii
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2017 5:29 pm

Re: Problems with PLA

Postby kencfii » Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:50 pm

You should also be sure you are using the recommended temperature for the brand of PLA you are using.
This can vary by manufacturer and type of PLA.
Just this AM I switched from one type of PLA to another (slightly different) PLA - same brand but one is a high temp version - so I had to adjust the print temp. Just 5 degrees can make a difference. The manufacturers should list this on the spool itself or on their website.

3D printing has always been a bit tricky and bed adhesion is one of the most challenging.

Tip: Get another glass bed and just keep it plain glass (no build tak) and use Hair spray or glue stick - this is always a go to as a last measure - if nothing else works for a specific build or material - Glue or hairspray (same thing really) will work.... (can be a bit of a hassle but it works)

Lots of other options for print beds too...
Gekotec (using that right now with PLA - works great)
PEI
etc.

Good luck -


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