PETG filament

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NewGuy
Posts: 39
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:01 pm
Location: Krakow, Poland

PETG filament

Postby NewGuy » Tue Jul 25, 2017 5:23 pm

I am looking to print with PETG, but have found that some third party filaments don't work well with my printer. Raise doesn't sell PETG in the store and I wanted to know what is a good quality PETG that people have had success with. Thanks

socke
Posts: 215
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 2:55 pm

Re: PETG filament

Postby socke » Tue Jul 25, 2017 5:48 pm

Personally I have had good results with PETG filaments from eSun and from 'Das Filament'.
But nothing other than Raise3D PLA worked for me reliable as long as I used the original extruder. So I upgraded to the Bondtech extruder.

NewGuy
Posts: 39
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:01 pm
Location: Krakow, Poland

Re: PETG filament

Postby NewGuy » Tue Jul 25, 2017 5:57 pm

I've heard good things about eSun. I had an old used roll of Hatchbox PETG and I struggled with it. What is it about these printers that it only seems to like raise filament?

firesped
Posts: 698
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: PETG filament

Postby firesped » Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:10 pm

I'm currently working on configuring esun PETG on my printer but the characteristics of my printer are unique that my settings may not help with anyone else.

I just printed off a temp tower and I'm not sure what I am supposed to do with it now.

I'm having issues with oozing and bridging.
RL name: Michael Nolen
printers:
raise3D N2 kickstarter Early Bird
Trinus Deluxe (running smoothieware on Azteeg X5 GT board)
Monoprice Maker Select v2

NewGuy
Posts: 39
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:01 pm
Location: Krakow, Poland

Re: PETG filament

Postby NewGuy » Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:17 pm

firesped wrote:I'm currently working on configuring esun PETG on my printer but the characteristics of my printer are unique that my settings may not help with anyone else.

I just printed off a temp tower and I'm not sure what I am supposed to do with it now.

I'm having issues with oozing and bridging.


This is from MakerGear not Raise, but a good guide to printing with PETG:
http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593

firesped
Posts: 698
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: PETG filament

Postby firesped » Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:38 pm

we don't have bridging settings unfortunetly. the closest we have are bottom layer solid infill.
RL name: Michael Nolen
printers:
raise3D N2 kickstarter Early Bird
Trinus Deluxe (running smoothieware on Azteeg X5 GT board)
Monoprice Maker Select v2

socke
Posts: 215
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 2:55 pm

Re: PETG filament

Postby socke » Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:46 pm

NewGuy wrote:What is it about these printers that it only seems to like raise filament?

It is how the extruder gear is gripping the filament: It is gripping always with a constant distance into the filament. So if filament diameter is changing because of tolerances or if the filament is too soft (maybe by temperature) the drive gear may loose grip and start grinding.

firesped
Posts: 698
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: PETG filament

Postby firesped » Tue Jul 25, 2017 9:18 pm

I tried going slower but the part came loose from the bed. going to try again with a raft. I am printing a bridge test combined with some retraction testing.
RL name: Michael Nolen
printers:
raise3D N2 kickstarter Early Bird
Trinus Deluxe (running smoothieware on Azteeg X5 GT board)
Monoprice Maker Select v2

cullymoto
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2017 7:32 pm

Re: PETG filament

Postby cullymoto » Wed Jul 26, 2017 3:32 am

I use petg for roughly 75% of my printing on the n2+ V2 hot end.
I have a pei sheet on glass for a bed surface. Lightly sanded after each cleaning, cleaned rarely with 99% isopropyl alcohol.
In my machine I find bed actual temp to be as much as 25° lower than bed set point, so I have set my bed as high as 100 for the first layer to get proper adhesion, then turn it down to 90 for the duration of the print. This will depend on both your filament and machine.
I use petg from filaments.ca house brand and have also had success with t-glass from taulman. I have excessive ooze issues regardless if retraction when temp is above 250, and layer Adhesion problems below 235. I have burnt white petg at 270 while black was A-o.k. and had impressive Adhesion there.
I never print above 60mm sec default speed. I find the n2 to be incapable of producing good results with any material above 60mm/sec printing speeds
I also use a 0.1mm gap between nozzle and bed surface, instead of 0.2mm.
It's also worth noting I have had 0 success trying to print petg at less than 0.1mm layer height. But 0.2mm layer seems to be a sweet spot for this material.
Hope you find that helpful

firesped
Posts: 698
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: PETG filament

Postby firesped » Wed Jul 26, 2017 4:36 am

I've been printing ok with the material using raise3d default PETG template. 60 on the bed seems ok but actually esun recommends higher. my only issues have really been with bridging, even with support, it sags and creates a bad bottom layer when not on the bed/raft.

to that effect, I am also getting pitted holes in the top for the same reason when I don't have enough layers set. the first layers of the solid infills are sagging and not bridging. I found some bridging test models and have tried what was recommended in the first document I found on bridging, slowing down the bridging speed to make sure it gets put down correctly. the last print I did at 30mm/s on bottom layers showed improvement over 40mm/s, 50mm/s and 60mm/s prints.

I think the first guild on bridging said they ultimately had to goto 10mm/s for bridging.

That guild was where I got the models as well. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:284380

The problem is, if I globally set that my bottom and top layers are to print at 10mm/s then it is going to make printing take a very long time. I think we may need raise3d to add a 1st layer speed for bottom and top solid infill. Which is likely more complicated then it actually sounds. The process has to determine if what it is printing is 1st layer.
RL name: Michael Nolen
printers:
raise3D N2 kickstarter Early Bird
Trinus Deluxe (running smoothieware on Azteeg X5 GT board)
Monoprice Maker Select v2

NewGuy
Posts: 39
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:01 pm
Location: Krakow, Poland

Re: PETG filament

Postby NewGuy » Thu Jul 27, 2017 2:39 pm

cullymoto wrote:I use petg for roughly 75% of my printing on the n2+ V2 hot end.
I have a pei sheet on glass for a bed surface. Lightly sanded after each cleaning, cleaned rarely with 99% isopropyl alcohol.
In my machine I find bed actual temp to be as much as 25° lower than bed set point, so I have set my bed as high as 100 for the first layer to get proper adhesion, then turn it down to 90 for the duration of the print. This will depend on both your filament and machine.
I use petg from filaments.ca house brand and have also had success with t-glass from taulman. I have excessive ooze issues regardless if retraction when temp is above 250, and layer Adhesion problems below 235. I have burnt white petg at 270 while black was A-o.k. and had impressive Adhesion there.
I never print above 60mm sec default speed. I find the n2 to be incapable of producing good results with any material above 60mm/sec printing speeds
I also use a 0.1mm gap between nozzle and bed surface, instead of 0.2mm.
It's also worth noting I have had 0 success trying to print petg at less than 0.1mm layer height. But 0.2mm layer seems to be a sweet spot for this material.
Hope you find that helpful


I also have made those observations. No matter what my retraction settings are I get about the same amount of oozing. You have to print slow with this stuff. I actually found that if I use a 0.8mm nozzle, I can increase the layer height and have a much better layer adhesion. Thanks for the info.

NewGuy
Posts: 39
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:01 pm
Location: Krakow, Poland

Re: PETG filament

Postby NewGuy » Thu Jul 27, 2017 2:43 pm

firesped wrote:I've been printing ok with the material using raise3d default PETG template. 60 on the bed seems ok but actually esun recommends higher. my only issues have really been with bridging, even with support, it sags and creates a bad bottom layer when not on the bed/raft.

to that effect, I am also getting pitted holes in the top for the same reason when I don't have enough layers set. the first layers of the solid infills are sagging and not bridging. I found some bridging test models and have tried what was recommended in the first document I found on bridging, slowing down the bridging speed to make sure it gets put down correctly. the last print I did at 30mm/s on bottom layers showed improvement over 40mm/s, 50mm/s and 60mm/s prints.

I think the first guild on bridging said they ultimately had to goto 10mm/s for bridging.

That guild was where I got the models as well. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:284380

The problem is, if I globally set that my bottom and top layers are to print at 10mm/s then it is going to make printing take a very long time. I think we may need raise3d to add a 1st layer speed for bottom and top solid infill. Which is likely more complicated then it actually sounds. The process has to determine if what it is printing is 1st layer.


Yeah, you cannot print quickly with PETG. Or at least I cant. I keep my bed at 70C for Petg and don't have issues. I have yet to print something in Petg with a long bridge, but the smaller parts are fine as long as I have supports. With your pitted holes problem, can you not increase the amount of top solid layers?

NewGuy
Posts: 39
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:01 pm
Location: Krakow, Poland

Re: PETG filament

Postby NewGuy » Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:30 pm

Just an update for anyone looking for help.

The best thing you can do with a new roll of PETG is to print a temp tower like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2467332
The recommended setting for my roll was 255C. After doing the temp tower, that temp gave me a very cloudy and melted look. I found it printed very well (clear and well bonded) at about 230C. Also, my bed has to be about 80C for a good first layer. Make sure to heat the bed about 10 min before printing to ensure it is actually reaching that temperature.

You need to test every roll you get to see what works best. Good luck and happy printing.


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