Raft Settings

Share your successful printing settings with others here. If you have any question about the parameters or printing skills of some filament, please find here.
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jerteach
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Raft Settings

Postby jerteach » Mon Apr 03, 2017 1:44 am

After a few years of using blue tape and trashing it daily, I really like my new Raise3D N2, buildTac and raft combination. Just curious if others have found good results with fewer raft layers? The default setting is 4 shells: 2 for the base and 2 for the top of the raft. If you have had success with fewer shells what combination did you use?


P.S. Is there anyway to make the raft bevel out so each shell is slightly wider than the previous? It really makes it easier to get something under the print to get the build of the buildTac.
Last edited by jerteach on Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:57 am, edited 2 times in total.
B.Sc (Chemistry), B.Ed (High School) Diploma Counselling
40 years coding. Teach: Robotics, Coding, Animation and 3D Printing. I research Music Notation
Train: Rugby Players and Recurrent Neural Networks
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walshlg
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Re: Raft seetings

Postby walshlg » Mon Apr 03, 2017 2:12 am

I often use a raft of 1 top and 1 bottom layer - its not so smooth and doesn't even things out as well but is pretty good. But for the dual head calibration, print out all 4 layers of the raft and print at 100um resolution, its worth it

Oh yeh, build tac sticks too well until it doesn't stick at all! I found it usefull to add gluestick or hairspray - these act as a releasing agent. Be careful - several people have broken their plate! When its really stuck, stick the model on the plate in the freezer for a few hours

and another thing - be smarter than me : take off those neat low angle clips and use the big finger clips. I cut myself very badly several times until I gave up

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jerteach
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby jerteach » Thu Apr 06, 2017 1:18 am

Thanks for the reply Walshlg I like your suggestions.

Not seeing much Twitter action for the Raise3D. Do you have a Twitter account? I tend to post a reasonable amount @rocksetta . Presently I am comparing my Tinkerine that I have used to teach 3D Printing for about 2 years with the Raise3D N2 that I got last week.

Here is an example:

My homemade Kossel Delta only bridges about 15 mm. Here is an image of my Tinkerine (Purple) and new Raise3d N2 (yellow) both bridging about 50 mm.

bridging.jpg
Last edited by jerteach on Tue Apr 11, 2017 5:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
B.Sc (Chemistry), B.Ed (High School) Diploma Counselling
40 years coding. Teach: Robotics, Coding, Animation and 3D Printing. I research Music Notation
Train: Rugby Players and Recurrent Neural Networks
Twitter: @rocksetta https://twitter.com/rocksetta

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jmp
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Re: Raft seetings

Postby jmp » Thu Apr 06, 2017 11:32 am

They do have a twitter account @Raise3D but they only post occasionally.
jerteach wrote:Not seeing much Twitter action for the Raise3D. Do you have a Twitter account?

bridging.jpg
RL Name: Jason Preuss Thingiverse: JMP Website: http://www.patterntoprint.com

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jerteach
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby jerteach » Wed Apr 12, 2017 4:01 am

So on my second week of my N2 and I am actually having a real issue. What was working great before, is now starting to have some issues. Using PLA at 215 degrees prints fine at the normal 50 mm/s print speed but part of the default settings for the raft prints at 60 mm/s .

When the raft prints at 60 mm/s I randomly hear a quite knock and the filament extruder skips and the filament comes out in clumps (Happens for the surface layer of the raft). When the raft is finished the the print works fine. Sounds like I am at my limit for filament temperature and print speed.

I checked the stock filament diameter with a micrometer and it is a bit thin instead of 1.75 mm it averages at 1.65 mm, however my other filaments for my other printers are about the same. (My Tinkerine printer has a spring tensioned extruder so slight differences are tolerated)

Anyway, could the experienced users like Walshlg and Maugseros give me some idea if they have had similar issues, and what they did about it (other than MODS which I can't afford at the moment). I know that I can bump the temperature up or slow the print down, just curious what others have done. I will try bumping up the temperature and test if it still bridges 50mm then I can tolerate the higher temp.

I also need to test infill which I think defaults to 90 mm/s which presently my printer will not be able to do. I have noticied that the 1KG spools take a bit to turn due to their weight which may be having a bit of an effect.


Looks like another thread is looking at this at http://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1526&p=13060&hilit=bearing#p13060 Sure hope powering down for 24 hours solves my issue.
B.Sc (Chemistry), B.Ed (High School) Diploma Counselling
40 years coding. Teach: Robotics, Coding, Animation and 3D Printing. I research Music Notation
Train: Rugby Players and Recurrent Neural Networks
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walshlg
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby walshlg » Wed Apr 12, 2017 1:20 pm

one thing I've done is not set the Z clearance high enough and that can cause enough back pressure to make skips in first layer. Its funny but definitely filament dependent. BUT that shouldn't matter after the first layer.

Next time it starts to skip, stop the print , drop plate 20 mm and do a manual load on filament and see if its skipping there. If you pushing on the filament hard doesnt stop the skipping then its a downstream clogging, if you pushing DOES help then you need to work on the filament drive section: hobbed gear spacing and even stepper motor current have been a problem for some.

1.65 mm is not acceptable tolerance for any filament. pull off a few meters and check again - also watch for thick/ thin variation.

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walshlg
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby walshlg » Wed Apr 12, 2017 1:21 pm

oh yeh there is an active group on facebook. Crazy huge number of posts and a few trolls but worth watching.

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jmp
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby jmp » Wed Apr 12, 2017 2:51 pm

jerteach wrote:So on my second week of my N2 and I am actually having a real issue. What was working great before, is now starting to have some issues. Using PLA at 215 degrees prints fine at the normal 50 mm/s print speed but part of the default settings for the raft prints at 60 mm/s .

When the raft prints at 60 mm/s I randomly hear a quite knock and the filament extruder skips and the filament comes out in clumps (Happens for the surface layer of the raft).


Have you tried slowing that speed down below 60mm/s? Also have you tried lowering the surface layer infill ratio below 85%?
RL Name: Jason Preuss Thingiverse: JMP Website: http://www.patterntoprint.com

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jerteach
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby jerteach » Wed Apr 12, 2017 8:06 pm

jmp wrote:Have you tried slowing that speed down below 60mm/s? Also have you tried lowering the surface layer infill ratio below 85%?



That is the next step, but it worries me when default settings don't work and makes me ask why? Another default setting that seems strange is that my version of IdeaMaker (2.4.0.585) has the default PLA setting as 205 Degrees C? Wow that is LOW! I use 210 for black PLA simply because the print looks molten, but a default at 205 seems really low.

P.S. I like the idea of lowering the raft surface layer infill from 85%. I thought it was high to make it easier to remove the print from the raft. Anyone have good results with a lower percentage?
B.Sc (Chemistry), B.Ed (High School) Diploma Counselling
40 years coding. Teach: Robotics, Coding, Animation and 3D Printing. I research Music Notation
Train: Rugby Players and Recurrent Neural Networks
Twitter: @rocksetta https://twitter.com/rocksetta

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jerteach
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby jerteach » Wed Apr 12, 2017 9:25 pm

Vicky or someone can you upload an image of how you are suppossed to setup your Bowden tube. I just took mine off and noticed a ridiculous amount of friction to remove it. I then tried printing without the Bowden tube and my prints are much better.

In my accessories box is something that looks like it should hold both Bowden tubes, what is the correct way to use it or do most people not use the tube at all.



bowden.jpg



here is how I had my Bowden tube. I assume the proper way is to remove the short tubes and insert the Bowden tube into the holders. Any suggestions.
B.Sc (Chemistry), B.Ed (High School) Diploma Counselling
40 years coding. Teach: Robotics, Coding, Animation and 3D Printing. I research Music Notation
Train: Rugby Players and Recurrent Neural Networks
Twitter: @rocksetta https://twitter.com/rocksetta

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:24 am

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=840&p=8315#p7980
Please check this thread. There list several versions of filament guiding tube. If yours has the same size as the short one, you need to remove the short on and insert the guiding tube into the quick coupling.

Actually the guiding tube is not a necessary part, unless your filament is eager to break during fast moving. It will increase moving resistance in some cases.

Oliviers
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby Oliviers » Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:48 am

I remove the short tubes
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walshlg
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Re: Raft Settings

Postby walshlg » Thu Apr 13, 2017 1:06 pm

also not a Bowden tube unless running a bowden extruder head - its just a guide tube on a direct drive


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