Matterhacker PETG Temperature

[walshlg]

interesting how the recommended temperatures for printing petg from matterhackers are WAY OFF. THe recommended temperature for clear is 260C and 250C for colored. I am using an 800um nozzle and printing at 20 mm/sec printed in vase mode. I have found that any setting above 240C makes the filament very cloudy. I fact you can see cloudy areas when changing temperature as it heats up the block and overshoots slightly. I am printing now at 220C and retraction is much improved as well as excellent clarity. THe findings for Yellow and Green are the same.

Bottom line: Do a Temperature test on your petg!

[Vicky@Raise3D]

Thanks for your sharing.
I have added your result here: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1211&p=11041#p11041.

[eagle1xray]

Hey do you have this file available? the current file for the Raised Temp Test on Thingiverse....does NOT stick to the buildtak surface and fails EVERYTIME currently....bed temp only 40c on PLA currently and changing it seemed to not net results....could someone post a link to a better one? maybe with a better raft/brim combo to get it to actually stick?

[Vicky@Raise3D]

Hey do you have this file available? the current file for the Raised Temp Test on Thingiverse....does NOT stick to the buildtak surface and fails EVERYTIME currently....bed temp only 40c on PLA currently and changing it seemed to not net results....could someone post a link to a better one? maybe with a better raft/brim combo to get it to actually stick?

Have you check the distance between nozzle and build plate?
Have you tried higher bed temperature before?
How about Raft and Brim, which type did you choose?

[walshlg]

Hey do you have this file available? the current file for the Raised Temp Test on Thingiverse....does NOT stick to the buildtak surface and fails EVERYTIME currently....bed temp only 40c on PLA currently and changing it seemed to not net results....could someone post a link to a better one? maybe with a better raft/brim combo to get it to actually stick?

Sorry its not sticking, I had that happen and when the buildtac fails it fails abruptly! First clean very well with rubbing alcohol. Next, try putting some aquanet or gluestick to aid adhesion and removal. Also bump up the plate to 60C.

As for the model, this is just the 2x2 cube with the z axis scaled up 8x printed with no infill, a single shell with 2 bottom and 0 top layers. It is also printed in vase mode but that isn't really necessary, it just smooths things out the most.

[walshlg]

BTW just tried some t-glase - the temperature profile is totally different, won't stick and turns milky at 210C

[AR_LA]

That's good to know, I've been having serious ooze issues with tech-g on the bowden side at 230-240. I never went too low on it since the recommended temps are kind of up there. I'll try dropping them next time, but layer adhesion is amazing with both tech G and XT.

I found that PETG materials bond too well to bare buildtak... when they bond that is. Build plate at 60 normally works, but I have a hell of a time removing parts. I add gluestick to make removal easier.

Are you able to print t-glase under 210? Seems really low for a PETG type.

[walshlg]

Are you able to print t-glase under 210? Seems really low for a PETG type.

no that was a total failure other than that it did extrude but no adhesion to bed or among layers

[Noren]

Regarding the temperature calibration tower. I have also downloaded and tried to print the one available on thingiverse. But I can not get it to stick either. Not with raft and brim either. The problem for me is Thant my PLA requires about 205–210°C to print ok. The calibration tower starts with the lowest temperature at 185°C at the bottom. Which is to low to print ok. The better solution would be to have the highest temperature at the bottom.
And a few different towers with a more narrow temperature ranges. Or maybe two towers that start with the filaments stated middletemperature and one prints higher temperatures and one prints lower. A bit of a hassle to have to print twice. But that would optimise the chance to get the calibration tower to stick I really would like to se the temperature calibration as a function built In to the printer. As the first step to take when first loading a new filament.

[walshlg]

I just adjust the temperature on the controller screen. Its ok to start higher and then decrease the temperature BUT you have to be careful to watch for clogs, if one happens then pause immediately and raise temperature and restart when it warms up. I find it usually takes about 2 minutes at each temperature to reach a semi-stable temperature.

Print not sticking is a pain, when I have issues with that I often print a 10 pass brim.

[lami3d]

i've recently done the same with colorfabb XT-clear and the result is that 260°c seems to give the best results
it's cloudy around 230 and a little bit less at 235, 240, 245....
250 starts to be good
but the best i found is 260°C and 265... you have also to adjust cooling to avoid stringing 250+20% colling Ok, 260+40/50% Ok, 265+ from 50% until100% Ok

For the cooling %, i've the socke right fan duct with a wider (15mm) fan.

I will upload the picture as soon i could.

I have to do that with formfutura hdglass which is the other transparent filament i have.