Stringing on N1 Dual

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Danyen14
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2018 9:17 am

Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby Danyen14 » Wed Oct 10, 2018 11:17 pm

Under cover i a a picture of a build that I stopped due to all of the stringing. This build was started with the Ideamaker out of the box medium quality settings for pla, no settings editted or changed . The white PLA is what was shipped in the carton by R3D, along with the printer.

What has me vexed is that when I run a stringing calibration test model ( two cylinder type),the test model comes out perfectly, no stringing whatsoever. Any suggestions? I would asume it's the retraction setting, but why would model geometry make a difference?

Btw, I'm receiving a new N1 Dual sometime today, along with a BondTech dyal extruder...I'm hoping that i can use a significantly more aggressive retraction setting, without the possibility of filament grind.

A14B42D9-6BDD-4911-9473-50758DA5846D.jpeg

crimsonyoshi
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:17 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada

Re: Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby crimsonyoshi » Mon Oct 15, 2018 7:12 pm

I have a Pro 2 Plus and used the default standard PLA settings for a more complicated (bigger and higher) print recently with no stringing. I'm not sure if the default profiles are different between printers or not, but the first thing you can try is lowering the extrusion temperature slightly (try 5 degrees at first). The trade off is lower temps mean less stringing, but also weaker layer adhesion.

You need to be careful with retraction, as if you raise it too high, you'll get melted filament too high up to be properly re-melted and potentially temporarily jam the machine.

Danyen14
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2018 9:17 am

Re: Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby Danyen14 » Mon Oct 22, 2018 1:41 am

Thanks for the comments...this part was the third or fourth I ran , first using Oem settings, then reducing temps by five degrees. This part was printed at around 190 and the bed at 60. I didn’t change retraction,etc, as not to add another variation to the problem. I also ran a dual cylinder stringing check tower...it came out perfect with no stringing....also ran a temperature calibration tower...it was stringy from 220 to 180.

This stringing issue that seemed to be geometry centric , was what was causing my confusion. I purchased some E Sun PLA, ran it on the Oem middle speed/quality setting, no changes whatsoever, parts came out as near perfect as could be had.

tja
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2016 10:24 pm
Location: Essex, UK

Re: Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby tja » Mon Oct 22, 2018 6:24 pm

I have a Dual N1 and have never seen stringing like this with PLA. I haven't had stringing that bad with PETG and that filament is much worse than PLA for stringing. I suspect you have a bad reel of PLA

Spikeysonic
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:07 am

Re: Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby Spikeysonic » Wed Oct 24, 2018 1:25 pm

tja wrote:I have a Dual N1 and have never seen stringing like this with PLA. I haven't had stringing that bad with PETG and that filament is much worse than PLA for stringing. I suspect you have a bad reel of PLA


Been having bad stringing with pet G technology outlet brand at 240 degrees. Worse when trying to use pva as a support so bad there seems to be layer shifting by at least a cm after about 1cm.


What retraction or other settings need to be done with the stock Pet G settings to eliminate this without me having to spend a few days u jamming the printer and taking the hot end apart. this easily risks costly throat breaks and nozzrl damage.


I have an N2 Dual with version 2 Hotends and a bondtech dual

tja
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2016 10:24 pm
Location: Essex, UK

Re: Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby tja » Tue Oct 30, 2018 12:19 am

What retraction or other settings need to be done with the stock Pet G settings


I'm using Real Filament PETG from amazon, it's about £22 per kg. I print straight on to the glass bed plate, which I clean with tap water on a piece of kitchen roll after each print. The first layer attaches really well and when the part is still warm it is hard to remove. However when the plate and part cool down to <30C the part just lifts off the plate.

My settings are nothing fancy...

Extruder 250C
Bed 80C

Layer
Layer height 0.2mm

Extruder
Extrusion width 0.4mm
Enable retraction Y
Retraction speed 20mm/s
Retraction material amount 2mm
Min travel of retraction 0.5mm
Min amount of retraction 0.02mm
Extra restart amount 0mm
Restart speed 20mm/s
z hop 0mm

Platform additions
Skirt only, 1 skirt loop

Ooze
Force retraction on layer change Y
Avoid retraction inside models Y
Retraction speed of extruder switch 20mm/s
Retraction amount of extruder switch 3.5mm
Restart speed of extruder switch 20 mm/s
Extra restart amount of extruder switch 0 mm

When I tried to reduce the stringing using a 'tower model' off Thingiverse, I couldn't completely eliminate the stringing by varying the settings. So I just usually print just one piece at a time, which avoids part to part strings.

Spikeysonic
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:07 am

Re: Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby Spikeysonic » Tue Oct 30, 2018 9:16 am

Thanks and I take it thats under the limit for jamming dur to soft material too high

tja
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2016 10:24 pm
Location: Essex, UK

Re: Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby tja » Tue Oct 30, 2018 10:30 am

I have never had PETG jam in the extruder. I have a top-fed filament holder, so the perspex top is off during printing, which probably keeps the cold-end temperature from getting into the soft region. I run it with the fan covers on usually, only take them off if I have bridges in the design. I'm using the original R3D extruders currently, although I have the Bondtech extruders sitting on my desk waiting to be fitted. Bought them because I do have occasional blockage problems with TPU filament.

crimsonyoshi
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:17 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada

Re: Stringing on N1 Dual

Postby crimsonyoshi » Tue Nov 06, 2018 9:53 pm

I've definitely printed tens of PLA models since my last post in this thread all with 0 stringing. The only other comment I can add is brand of PLA. I use Polymaker's PLA and have nothing but good things to say about it.


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